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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got a set of 600cc injectors and i cant get them to seal in the manifold.
What o ring do i use and where is it suppose to mount?

I have tired this



but the bottom o-ring pushing it up and then it doesnt seal. Those are the stock honda bottom o rings.
Now without any bottom oring they bottom out and have a gap at the top

I have his 600cc and using an obd2 y8 intake manifold.

*edit
some how the post posted before i added pix and stuff.
 

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I forgot how i did mine but i will take picts. for you in the morning. I'm pretty sure I've used a dremmel to enlarge the holes on the o-rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm sure he'll see this and comment but I would message him and ask. Haven't dealt with him personally but I know his reputation is stellar
Yea pm him he's a cool guy.


I forgot how i did mine but i will take picts. for you in the morning. I'm pretty sure I've used a dremmel to enlarge the holes on the o-rings.
Yea it looks like they must need to be sized but there would still be a space at the top by the fuel rail.

I'll see what he says.

Also I should of try to install them at night while semi sick and smelling gas lol.
 

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Honda makes thin and thick lower seals. It looks like you have the thin version, which requires a thin plastic ring below it in the injector hole. The top of the seal should be flush with the top of the manifold's injector hole. These injectors do not seal radially, meaning side to side inside the seal like the inlet o-ring does in the fuel rail. They seal on the top of the rubber like the OEM injectors do. The thin lip inside the stock seal does contact the stainless portion of the injector, but isn't a tight fit. If the seal was hogged out for DSM injectors you'd have to replace them. I've only dealt with OEM seals, so I can't say how well aftermarket seals from a parts store will work.

The seal should be installed into the fuel rail first, then the injector lightly set into the seal. The fuel rail can be installed before or after, whatever you find easiest. After it's all together loose, bolt the rail down and it will press the black lip above the stainless portion into the top of the lower seal.

These show the different injector seals. Picture #2 shows the thicker seal in the hole on the left while the hole to the right has the thin seal next to it and the plastic spacer inside the hole.




These show Bosch EV14 injectors fully installed (#1 & #2) and partially installed (#3) to show how much it presses into the rubber. The stainless ring is visible in #3's partially inserted injector; also note the height of the small circle in pic #2 vs pic #3 as well as the gap at the fuel rail mounting bolt. This is a GSR manifold which doesn't use the plastic fuel rail spacers almost all other D/B/H/F manifolds use, they just added material to the manifold instead. D16 plastic spacers are actually shown tilting the manifold flange in pic #1.





This picture shows a shorter injector in a Z6 rail/manifold, but the lower seal will still fit the same. This is an s2000 injector height, and they use the same sort of lower seals.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok is there a part number for the spacer i cant seem to find it online.
The b7,z6,y7 and y8 motors says it doesnt use them.
Im checking honda automotive parts online.

16472-P0H-A01 is the oem lower rubber part that i have.
 

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I believe it is 16474-PT2-000 for an "injector insulator", it looks like it was mostly used in F & H engines along with the thinner 16472-P0H-A01 injector seal above it. I do have an F22A6 manifold that I pulled them out of. The combo of those two are much cheaper than the thicker 16472-P10-A01 seal used in other engines. It might be a tighter fit since you have less rubber to compress, but it should still work. If it's too tight for your liking, you can use a washer on each mounting stud between the rail & manifold to shim it up. This picture shows the rail shimmed when I has some very hard seals in a manifold:



So to recap either use 16474-PT2-000 below 16472-P0H-A01 in each manifold injector hole, or a single 16472-P10-A01 in each hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you Hiprofile your the man.

I was going to get the 16472-P10-A01 d16z6 oring but honda wanted like $16 ea.

Then i was going to get the 16474-PT2-000 prelude washer but honda didnt have them and said it would take 2 days to get them and i believe he said they where $6 a piece.

I just said f it and went to oreillys and got
BWD seal kit 274621
They where $8 a box. Got 4 of them.

Got home and pop the oring on and it fits snug on the stainless steel part of the injectors.
Then i found out that the Beck Arnley 158-0176 would have work but no on locally sold them.


Bolted everything up and no leaks or space.
Bump up the injector time and idles nice and smooth. Seems a lil lean up top but il going to tune it out.

So end the end i paid more to get it done today lol isnt that how we always do it.
 

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And this is why I will be using hiprofile for my injector needs once my build commences
 

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On my hi profile injectors they had a little to much play for my liking so what I did was put a lite coat of honda bond around the injectors then installing the o rings making sure u do not get any honda bond on the tip of the injectors once the honda bond dries its a sealed tight injector.install the injectors in the fuel rail first then the intake manifold.but I was in a crunch for time didn't have time getting new o rings but still seems to work nicely
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On my hi profile injectors they had a little to much play for my liking so what I did was put a lite coat of honda bond around the injectors then installing the o rings making sure u do not get any honda bond on the tip of the injectors once the honda bond dries its a sealed tight injector.install the injectors in the fuel rail first then the intake manifold.but I was in a crunch for time didn't have time getting new o rings but still seems to work nicely
yea the gaskets i got form oreillys fit snug.
I believe the obd1 are a bit tighter then the obd2. At lest it was in my oreillys kit. but all is good now for me.
Been rocking them all day and car is very smooth. better then when i had rdx injectors.
 

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Honda makes thin and thick lower seals. It looks like you have the thin version, which requires a thin plastic ring below it in the injector hole. The top of the seal should be flush with the top of the manifold's injector hole. These injectors do not seal radially, meaning side to side inside the seal like the inlet o-ring does in the fuel rail. They seal on the top of the rubber like the OEM injectors do. The thin lip inside the stock seal does contact the stainless portion of the injector, but isn't a tight fit. If the seal was hogged out for DSM injectors you'd have to replace them. I've only dealt with OEM seals, so I can't say how well aftermarket seals from a parts store will work.

The seal should be installed into the fuel rail first, then the injector lightly set into the seal. The fuel rail can be installed before or after, whatever you find easiest. After it's all together loose, bolt the rail down and it will press the black lip above the stainless portion into the top of the lower seal.


These show the different injector seals. Picture #2 shows the thicker seal in the hole on the left while the hole to the right has the thin seal next to it and the plastic spacer inside the hole.




These show Bosch EV14 injectors fully installed (#1 & #2) and partially installed (#3) to show how much it presses into the rubber. The stainless ring is visible in #3's partially inserted injector; also note the height of the small circle in pic #2 vs pic #3 as well as the gap at the fuel rail mounting bolt. This is a GSR manifold which doesn't use the plastic fuel rail spacers almost all other D/B/H/F manifolds use, they just added material to the manifold instead. D16 plastic spacers are actually shown tilting the manifold flange in pic #1.





This picture shows a shorter injector in a Z6 rail/manifold, but the lower seal will still fit the same. This is an s2000 injector height, and they use the same sort of lower seals.

HI, my name is Frank and I’m new to the forum so first off I would like to say hello to everyone.
The pictures show you have all the right parts with the exception of the washer that goes on top of the seal with a ev14 injector. This keeps the seal from riding up on the injector. This will keep everything in place. Hope this helps. PS this is my 1st post lol :shrug
 

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@southbay. Are you talking about the copper washer?

Welcome to DSO!
Could be copper. I use stainless or black ring. It would fit over the end of the injector but the id would be smaller then the composite body of the injector, It just keeps the seal in the right place. Keihin injectors have this ring built into the injector.

Not the best pic but you can see the built in ring that keeps the manifold seal in place. And yes, I'm eating ice cream lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Could be copper. I use stainless or black ring. It would fit over the end of the injector but the id would be smaller then the composite body of the injector, It just keeps the seal in the right place. Keihin injectors have this ring built into the injector.

Not the best pic but you can see the built in ring that keeps the manifold seal in place. And yes, I'm eating ice cream lol
welcome.
And the injectors are sealing great are you talking abut the copper filter up top on your pix?
And the injector have a lip up top to keep the top o ring in place.
And your profile icon reminds me of mib 2 that picture in the pizza place lol.
 

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You must be referring to the thin lip halfway between the blue tip and black connector. S2000's are the most common users of that extra washer when installing EV14 injectors.

IMO it's a gimmick to make the user feel better. There is no true seal between the injector lip and washer - metal pressed to a plastic lip that has 2 lips created by flash will never seal well. The weak seal created between the stainless body and the tiny lip inside the OEM seal can allow boost & high vacuum to to leak past, after that it can push out past the poor seal between the washer & injector body. The user would have to use something like butyl rubber between the washer & injector body; silicone RTV & Hondabond is not fuel-safe.

The old style Keihin injectors (aka "240cc obd1 injector") used the body around the solenoid to create that "ring". Almost no company selling EV14's supplies them for Honda D/B/H/F motors, and I haven't seen masses of people clamoring for a fix. The lip of the EV14's plastic body presses into the OEM rubber seal's top & wedges it in there. I have not had one of my dozens of Honda customers complain about a seal riding up, and that includes people pumping >40psi into their manifold.
 

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You must be referring to the thin lip halfway between the blue tip and black connector. S2000's are the most common users of that extra washer when installing EV14 injectors.

IMO it's a gimmick to make the user feel better. There is no true seal between the injector lip and washer - metal pressed to a plastic lip that has 2 lips created by flash will never seal well. The weak seal created between the stainless body and the tiny lip inside the OEM seal can allow boost & high vacuum to to leak past, after that it can push out past the poor seal between the washer & injector body. The user would have to use something like butyl rubber between the washer & injector body; silicone RTV & Hondabond is not fuel-safe.

The old style Keihin injectors (aka "240cc obd1 injector") used the body around the solenoid to create that "ring". Almost no company selling EV14's supplies them for Honda D/B/H/F motors, and I haven't seen masses of people clamoring for a fix. The lip of the EV14's plastic body presses into the OEM rubber seal's top & wedges it in there. I have not had one of my dozens of Honda customers complain about a seal riding up, and that includes people pumping >40psi into their manifold.
OK with me


The ring I'm talking about is above the seal, most of us use them PS This is my happy face
 
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