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Reverse switch has to be in there somewhere, and so does VSS, unless you have a cable speedo.

#3 connects to the body harness. It’s how the gauge gets signal from OPS and H20, among other things. It should be C131 connector if you’ve got the FSM (it is for CDM/USDM spec, maybe different for you).

#27 is power/ground distribution.

Are you going to be running new wire and pins/seals or just soldering the OEM wires? I’m in the middle of gathering supplies for a new harness myself, so I can provide part numbers once I get them all figured out. I’ve been (slowly) going through my FSM as a cross reference too and hope to have everything mapped out over the winter.
 

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I didn’t plan on using the OEM colors, instead I was going to keep it a little more simple. My thought was to mainly use black or white and do something like green for signal grounds and yellow for power. It’s cheaper to buy spools of 100’ or 500’ of all one color than to get smaller spools of 25’ and 50’ of different colors, especially when dealing with ETFE wire.
Honestly you can save some money by reusing the OEM connectors and just buying new terminals and seals. The connectors don’t really wear out
 

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OBD1 ECU connectors:
TYCO/AMP Multilock Hybrid
16-pin 174514-x (x denotes color)
22-pin 174515-x (x denotes color)
26-pin 174516-x (x denotes color)
For colors, yellow = 7, gray = 6, blue = 5, and white = 1.
Female terminals for these connectors:
Large 173716-1
Small 173630-1
The number after the dash denotes material/finish. 1 is tinned and is what the OEM terminals are.

VTEC solenoid:
Sumitomo HW Sealed 1-pin

IACV:
Sumitomo HX 090 Sealed 2-pin

IAT/ECT:
Sumitomo HW Sealed 2-pin

MAP/TPS:
Sumitomo HM Sealed 3-pin

Reverse:
Sumitomo TS 090 Sealed 2-pin

I’m missing some I’m sure but I’m still building my list.
I’m using OBD2 alt/distributor so the plugs aren’t the same as OBD1 and I’m not using a standard 4 wire O2 so I haven’t bothered looking those up but they are Sumitomo as well.
The terminals/seals for these connectors are pretty easy to find once you know the series you are working with. Just figure out if you need male/female and then pick your gauge size. The seals are usually listed by inside diameter of the hole, so it’s best to know the outside diameter of your wire and pick the seal that covers that range. Most of the seals/terminals cover multiple series of connectors. I’d order 10-20% more than what you need because you will waste some figuring out your crimper/stripper settings.
Mouser has the best price on TYCO/AMP connectors but they don’t stock Sumitomo so you’ll have to find them somewhere else.
 
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