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Civic and sierra
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got my turbo installed this morning and everything was running fine. I have a base map from Jason waters and it cuts at 6psi until I can have it tuned. Probably driven around 30 min with no issues until I got on it a little to show a friend and it cut out. Pulled over and found a large vacuum cap had popped off so I fixed that. Now at anything more than light throttle it's got a miss. Rpm doesnt seem to matter as long as I'm really light on the throttle it's fine. If I give it any at all it misses and I'm no where near boost. I've tried new plugs and it's getting fue. All vacuum lines are on and securel. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also I haven't done a compression test, but I did cover the spark plug holes with my hand and turn it over and they all pushed my hand off. Felt pretty even fwiw
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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its a basemap for a reason......
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know that. But I didn't go full throttle and he told me to drive it a week or two before I bring it to make sure it doesn't have any issues. I asked him if I should stay out of boost and he said no he set a limit and it should be fine.
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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659 Posts
There's a lot of information missing here.

What car?

What engine?

What ecu?

Injectors?

Please state all the info you can so we can properly provide a posible remedy to your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
97 ex
D16y8
Bosch 550 injectors
Obd1 ecu (p28?). It's chipped
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Greddy 18g turbo
Anything else that will help?
 

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D-series SoCal Division
93' dx hatchback
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659 Posts
Is the CEL on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the center button in my distributor cap went on vacation. New cap fixed it! Thanks for the help
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
He probably did it right, actually... an equal amount of compression strokes per cylinder WOT with injectors disconnected at operating temps.

Ive seen people do compression tests by just cranking and cranking until the pressure stops going up.... Hah, makes me laugh.
 

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Asshole
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A healthy y8 should be around 190 psi, not 100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Who says it's healthy? 310k miles is a lot of wear lol
FarmerD, I hope you like to laugh, how are you supposed to do the test exactly? I had it at temp, unplugged the injectors, and cranked it over awhile (cheap orileys gauge, doesn't hold peak or anything)
I didn't know I was supposed to hold the throttle open or anything
On a side note, I've read through both your threads and am building a 1.7 bottom end to replace this one when it lets go. I doubt what I have lasts long but I thought it would be good to learn with. This is my first turbo. All previous experience is gm v8s
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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Like I said, each cylinder needs the same amount of compression strokes. I usually do 4 or 5 per cylinder. Just make sure you do the same amount for every hole.

As you crank the engine, you can hear when the starter encounters resistance, its tone changes. That signifies you have just hit one compression stroke for the cylinder you are testing. (thats why you pull all the plugs out and disable fuel, so you can tell when the cyl you are actually testing is being exercised)

Its not the overall compression number that matters, its that all of them are close to equal. 100psi is a very normal comp test result if you did it on a cold engine, or had a slow/weak battery, or possibly you only did 3-4 compression strokes per cyl.

If you do 7-10 comp strokes you can build up the pressure but it can hide things like poor valve sealing.
 
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