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Hey All...
i just Completed my swap from Dual Point Fuel Injection (DPFI) to Multi Point Fuel Injection (MPFI)...every wire and connection is CORRECT!

now let me start from the top...when i bought my car it came to me with a D16Z6 running DPFI and a distributor not meant for my motor...

after this recent swap i changed my Intake manifold from DPFI to MPFI and My distributor to one that suits my D16Z6 better...

All the connections are correct for the swap but when i go to start the car...
it cranks then seems as if its going to start...then it dies...i try again and again...but it never FULLY starts...me and a buddy TRIPLE checked the wiring to see if anything was loose or no connected to the right place...but everything is good...

there are 2 cables that i do not know where they go...the head fits on the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT) so im guessing one of them is designated for that...but the other one is unknown?...on my Dual Point i believe it went to some sort of sensor that had 2 vaccuum lines coming out of it...

Does anybody have a clue of whats goin on here?...im trying DESPERATELY to start my car before tomorrow night...Please help!!! All Information given will be greatly appreciated!!! THANKS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Few more things if it helps...
I changed my ECU from PM5 to PM6...
and my car is OBD0...anything else please ask...ill be on here til 3-4AM...thanks much!!!
 

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did u match up the rotors on the distributors? r u getting spark? fuel? anything?
 

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Please help!!! All Information given will be greatly appreciated!!! THANKS!!!
Did you do anything with the cam gear/timing belt?

Are you getting fuel in each cyl? (take out a spart plug and smell it)

Are you getting spark in each cyl? (take out a spark plug, place the end on the block and crank it)

Are you getting any engine codes? (these will help you out a LOT)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you do anything with the cam gear/timing belt?

Are you getting fuel in each cyl? (take out a spart plug and smell it)

Are you getting spark in each cyl? (take out a spark plug, place the end on the block and crank it)

Are you getting any engine codes? (these will help you out a LOT)
-no i didnt do anything to the cam gear/timing belt...
-We checked the fuel line/fuel rail/injectors for fuel and its there...
-Im getting spark...my plugs were wet when we pulled em outta the engine...

-i forgot to note that my car is throwing me a 10 error code...which is IAT...Intake Air Temp Sensor...i have NO idea what wire has to go to it...as stated in above there are 2 wires that fit the sensor but i have no idea which one is the correct one for the sensor...and the other one is unknown...does anyone know where it would go?...
 

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So the car was running before you did the swap? If so it has to be something with the swap.

What dizzy are you using?
You removed the fuel lines and is coming out? Do injectors click?
You placed the plugs on a ground (shock tower, etc) and theres a spark?
Did you switch the tps wires?

the throttle bodys not completely closed is it?? it needs some air.
I know you said you double checked the wiring, but switch the dizzy wires and see what happens. those sometimes get confussed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So the car was running before you did the swap? If so it has to be something with the swap.

What dizzy are you using?
You removed the fuel lines and is coming out? Do injectors click?
You placed the plugs on a ground (shock tower, etc) and theres a spark?
Did you switch the tps wires?

the throttle bodys not completely closed is it?? it needs some air.
I know you said you double checked the wiring, but switch the dizzy wires and see what happens. those sometimes get confussed.
Yea the car was running before...the reason for the swap was because my TPS on the DPFI was effed up so i said i would rather pay less to get MPFI than to change a whole TB...

We checked the wiring...we even cut the wires and switched them around...that didnt work...

Gas is coming out of the line from the filter...its going into the fuel rail...but i have no idea if the injectors are spraying or not...how do i check that?...

We checked all the spark plugs...they were dirty...like BLACK...and wet...so we cleaned them with some starter fluid...

what do you mean switch the TPS wires?...(just left the TPS wires how they were on my harness before the swap...)

I did not check to see if the TB was closed all the way or not...i think it was completely shut...i remember looking into the TB and it was shut...

your input is helping!!!
thanks for your help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
any other ideas out there?...im up for grabs on ideas!!!

anybody have a clue about the plug thats not plugged into anything?...
there are actually 2 plugs...and i know 1 of them go on the IAT sensor...but i dont know which one...

helpppppp! THANKS EVERYONE! :)
 

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Yeah, you have to switch the two outer wires on the TPS. Also open up the throttle body a bit, by turning that screw on top.

to check the injectors, place a screwdriver against the injector and your ear to the handle while turning it over to see if there actually clicking. a stephoscope works a lot better. the resistence on the injectors can also be tested, as if they dont click, by assuming wiring or the ecu.

What dizzy are you using? You installed it correctly. the rotor is facing the #1 cap terminal at TDC?
 

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those two wire go to some stupid sensor for dual point. I just cut them back out of the way. they don't do anything or cause any codes to be thrown.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, you have to switch the two outer wires on the TPS. Also open up the throttle body a bit, by turning that screw on top.

to check the injectors, place a screwdriver against the injector and your ear to the handle while turning it over to see if there actually clicking. a stephoscope works a lot better. the resistence on the injectors can also be tested, as if they dont click, by assuming wiring or the ecu.

What dizzy are you using? You installed it correctly. the rotor is facing the #1 cap terminal at TDC?
so what you are saying is on the TPS i have to switch the two outer wires?...

ok ill check tomorrow for the throttle body plate to see if it is open or not...

ill also check the injectors...

what is a "dizzy"?

and ill have to check for the rotor at the # 1 wire @ TDC...

your input is making me confident that i can start my car by tomorrow...any idea on the IAT sensor error?...should i replace it?...my ecu blinks at me 10 times...through the little LED window...meaning IAT...but i dont know whats wrong with it...

thank you very much for your input!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
those two wire go to some stupid sensor for dual point. I just cut them back out of the way. they don't do anything or cause any codes to be thrown.
are both those plugs useless?...which one goes to my IAT?...cuz if i cut them both then i wont have anything plugged into my IAT...did i mention both of the plugs have 2 wires coming from them?...hope i have given sufficient information...
 

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yes the outer TPS wires have to be switched.

dizzy is distributor. You shouldn't have doing anything to the iat, as far as wiring goes, so i'm guessing it's just bad. It won't make the car not start though. Just get a diff. one when you get a chance.

If you have any more questions, PM me. I did the swap awhile ago and was lucky enough to get it started first try.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yes the outer TPS wires have to be switched.

dizzy is distributor. You shouldn't have doing anything to the iat, as far as wiring goes, so i'm guessing it's just bad. It won't make the car not start though. Just get a diff. one when you get a chance.

If you have any more questions, PM me. I did the swap awhile ago and was lucky enough to get it started first try.
Thanks Guest!!!
lol at first i was like WTF a guest can post replies?...ahah...
im going to try all these out first thing in the morning...
im using a distributor meant for all 92-95 Civics...im not sure which one but i bought a clear distributor cap and rotor set for 20$ from auto zone...its cheaper than OEM...haha...so why not?...

but again thanks for all the help!!!
i will PM you if i need anything else...
 

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yeah, there's your problem. you can't use a 92-95 dizzy.
Did you check if there's spark coming from the plugs? I'm not sure if it will even spark.... Your plugs are soaked because your not getting spark. You need to get an 88-91 dizzy(distributorking!!!! great warranty). use washers to install it. yeah, when I had a z6 mini me the dizzy lining up was GAY.

With washers I believe it's to one extreme or the other (retarded or advanced).
 

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yeah, there's your problem. you can't use a 92-95 dizzy.
Did you check if there's spark coming from the plugs? I'm not sure if it will even spark.... Your plugs are soaked because your not getting spark. You need to get an 88-91 dizzy(distributorking!!!! great warranty). use washers to install it. yeah, when I had a z6 mini me the dizzy lining up was GAY.

With washers I believe it's to one extreme or the other (retarded or advanced).
I get a spark from the dizzy and the plugs...i already checked...when i go to start the car it ALMOST starts but it doesnt...
 

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I get a spark from the dizzy and the plugs...i already checked...when i go to start the car it ALMOST starts but it doesnt...
Have you tried clearing the ECU codes since you've been troubleshooting to see if a new code comes up? You can prolly use the IAT sensor from your DPFI if you carefully remove it.

Any fuel on your spark plugs after trying to start it? This will tell you if your injectors work.

Any sparks coming out of your plugs when you hold them to the engine block and crank it?

Sounds to me like you've used some wrong parts or *gasp* you might have a wire crossed and not realize it. Go back to basics.
 
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