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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Basically I finally got the Wi-Fi thermostat I've wanted for years; and because of how the current thermostat is setup, the new one isn't working per the instructions.

Here's the current thermostat and how it is currently wired up :




And here's the board on my gas heater in the attic (central air/heat) :



As you can see, the current thermostat is battery operated. But the instructions on the new Honeywell thermostat were SO simple and explained that all I needed to send power to the new one was an additional wire hooked to it...the constant (C) wire. Notice that a "C" wire was NOT used in the current/old stat. Per the video instructions I found the color of wire matching that of the "C" wire on the heating unit and hooked it into the new stat (I tried both orange and brown, both with ZERO + results). All other wires were a direct match from the old stat to the new; so no problems there. Well, after all matched up and connected and the breakers flipped on AND the door to the heater closer up tight the new stat still doesn't work. So I immediately checked the power to the "RH" input and I'm getting around 28 volts. Is this normal?

Side-note, I've got the old stat hooked back up and still working fine; so everything having to do with the heating and air systems are fine. The LED on the "board" on the heating unit is displaying ZERO issues.

Did I just get a bad thermostat straight out of the box?

Any input/help you can provide is greatly appreciated as always!
 

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On the board for the gas heater there should be a output with 24 volts, that is the "C" port. Also do you still have the jumper in "R" to "RC"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
^Nothing that puts out 24volts, only 27.9-28.1 volts. And it was the "R" wire on the heater AND the "RH" input on the thermostat. Basically the red wire (thicker red wire in the heater board pic). So you're saying that I should be using the red wire in the thermostat pic input the "C" input, NOT the "R" or "RH" input, like what was originally in my first stat pics? If I use the "R" wire from the heater to connect to the "C" input on the new stat, what (if any) wire do I use for the "R"/"RH" input?

Yes, I've got a jumper in the "R"/"RH" and "RC" inputs on BOTH stats (old & new).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm going to be trying something tomorrow to see if the thermostat is bad. I'm going to disconnect the current thermostat, and use completely new wires from the heater's "R" terminal (power) to the "RH" thermostat input AND one from the heater's "C" terminal (ground/constant) to the "C" thermostat input. This way I'll be able to tell whether the ground/constant terminal on the heater actually works.

Wish me luck!
 

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Have you tried by passing the tstat by jumping the yellow to the green to see if your unit is working?

If the unit turns on...that tells you the tstat is bad. If not then you might have other issues.

Oh and yes. I've come across a brand newtstat out of the box. Lol. Sucks.

also have you checked the wires from the tstat to the board for continuity?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^Thanks, but I've got her running finally. What got me tricked was thinking that the red wire on the "R" terminal on the heater was the same one going through the wall and to my original stat...NOPE! It was a red wire used for a separate on/off switch in the attic for the heater. I had to trace wires around the attic to figure this shit all out; not my idea of a fun afternoon. But I got it figured out. Woot!

Oh, and it's awesome being able to control the temp of the house via my iPhone. :)
 

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Good work! I just picked up a Nest thermostat...waiting to install it once this "cold snap" is over. Current thermostat is working just fine, so I don't want to risk screwing that up right now. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^Yeah, I really shouldn't have tried doing it yesterday knowing that the same evening it'll get into the single digits over night. But after a couple of YouTube vids, I felt pretty confident in the fix. I can see that my wife has the house sitting at a comfortable 69 degrees right now. Shall I turn on the A/C or heat it up w/o her knowing? LOL!
 

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I want to swap in my Nest, but my older Honeywell CT3200 doesn't seem to want to come off the wall. When I pull on it, it seems the backing plate wants to pull off the wall instead of the face coming off the plate. I've tried and tried and tried, but I don't want to risk breaking it...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^Odd. Well, best to wait for the cold-snap to be over and give the new one a try. At first I waited a Nest model stat, but after a few years asking for one, I gave up. Then this year I get a new stat out of the blue. :)
 

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Yeah, I had $230 in gift cards to Home Depot....figured I'd upgrade to something else. I currently have a Honeywell CT3200A1001 and it's working just fine, but it has screwed up in the past, so I wanted something better. Hoping to never have to upgrade again once I install the Nest. Next up on the list: Nest fire/smoke/CO detector.
 

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I've heard bad things about nest. They have a tendency to lose their programming or will just quit working a together. Try it but if it acts up then switch to another one. The smart thermos are nice tho!
 
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