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Discussion Starter #1
So i took the old girl out last night and about 1 1/2hr into the ride she started to overheat. 90% of the ride was at highway speeds with min. traffic. When i pulled off the road my temp was 183F and my IAT was reading 124F. This was in about 70 deg weather at like 8-9pm. On the way home had no issues but noticed the intake was freaking hot when i pulled into my garage.

Now my turbo mani doesnt have wrapping on it or thermal coating and i have the 1/2 radiator w/ slim fan and shroud from Go-Autoworks. Just seeing if anyone has any suggestions to help me out before i go spend $ on useless stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It wont overheat in stop and go traffic. I just looked over the perameters on the Hondata and seems like the fan was set to turn off after 45mph. I doubt im getting enough air over the radiator above 45mph to effectively cool it down due to the large intercooler i have. Ive set the fan to come on even at cruising speeds so i shall see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Think he is talking more about the IAT, 183 is not overheating. Maybe 200 degree, but not 183 (stock thermostat opens at 180 degrees)
The car was overheating on the highway (205+) and by the time i pulled off the temp dropped to 183. The fan was not set to come on at speeds above 45mph so im thinking there isnt enough air flow after the intercooler to cool the coolant at highway speed.
 

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183 isn't overheating. To me that seems to run rather cool. When I had my old setup running a SOHC single core radiator and running 15PSI I always saw an average temp of 215-225 and the needle was always under the halfway mark on the temp gauge. This was after a 2 hour street tune on the freeway doing pulls back to back. Even if I wasn't running the car hard it always sat around the 210 mark. All of these readings were logged using NepTune. What are you running as a IC? Are you running an ebay IC or a brand one like Garrett, Precision, etc?

If your running and ebay IC then that IAT seems right where I was at.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The charge pipe/intercooler setup is from Go-Autoworks (Large Core). Im just wondering if the high coolant temp would cause the IAT to be 120+?
 

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The coolant temp doesn't have anything to do with the IAT. The coolant only runs through the motor not the pipes or IC. Sounds to me either the core isn't doing it's job or the IAT sensor is giving wrong readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The coolant temp doesn't have anything to do with the IAT. The coolant only runs through the motor not the pipes or IC. Sounds to me either the core isn't doing it's job or the IAT sensor is giving wrong readings.
I thought the same thing but for shits and giggles took a surface temp of the intake manifold with a point and check thermometer and it was within a couple degrees of the IAT.

My idea (might be a long shot) is that if there isnt enough air coming through the intercooler to cool the radiator there probably is not enough air passing through the engine bay to help scavange the hot air out. (hense the IAT reading)
 

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You could always do the washer trick with the hood hindge bolts to raise the rear of the hood up. It's supposed to create a vacuum effect and draws the engine temps out. I know someone on DSO logged a few degrees cooler for either ECT or IAT, but I'm not sure which one it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You could always do the washer trick with the hood hindge bolts to raise the rear of the hood up. It's supposed to create a vacuum effect and draws the engine temps out. I know someone on DSO logged a few degrees cooler for either ECT or IAT, but I'm not sure which one it was.
Thats where i am stumped because i had to do this to my hood just to clear the AN Fittings on the velve cover and its still hot as hell under the hood.
 

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You can always run a turbo blanket, wrap your DP, and your turbo manifold.
 

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part of your radiator could be clogged inside.

yank the hoses, and point a garden hose in a snout and see if its slow to come out.


a temporary trick is to drill a tiny hole in the thermostat to allow a lil flow.


what timing is the distributor set at? retarded and advanced timing have their own effect on temps
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You can always run a turbo blanket, wrap your DP, and your turbo manifold.
Yea i think im gonna try it with the fan on at cruise speed and see what happens. If that dont fix it i think the latter will be my next attempt to fix it.
 

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The washer trick does NOT work (when you are moving) unless you have messed up the airflow in the engine bay really bad. I have tested it (drove around for hours without thermostat and fan, trying to make the airflow better :p), it think I have the logs in my build thread somewhere. The front of the windshield is a high pressure zone on our civic's (and most other cars too), so it will draw air into the engine bay, not out. Good if you are running itb's. You want ALL the air that enters the engine bay to go through the radiator and IC, and you want the engine bay to be as low pressure as possible. If you have taken off the undertray/splash shield or whatever it is called when you put on the turbo setup, try putting it on. This was the single most effective mod I did. Without it, it makes a lot of turbulence right behind the radiator, which is very bad. It is designed from the factory to reduce the turbulence behind the radiator, and help the air to exit the engine bay under the car.

This article is a good read: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The washer trick does NOT work (when you are moving) unless you have messed up the airflow in the engine bay really bad. I have tested it (drove around for hours without thermostat and fan, trying to make the airflow better :p), it think I have the logs in my build thread somewhere. The front of the windshield is a high pressure zone on our civic's (and most other cars too), so it will draw air into the engine bay, not out. Good if you are running itb's. You want ALL the air that enters the engine bay to go through the radiator and IC, and you want the engine bay to be as low pressure as possible. If you have taken off the undertray/splash shield or whatever it is called when you put on the turbo setup, try putting it on. This was the single most effective mod I did. Without it, it makes a lot of turbulence right behind the radiator, which is very bad. It is designed from the factory to reduce the turbulence behind the radiator, and help the air to exit the engine bay under the car.

This article is a good read: Browser Warning

Yea hense cowl induction hoods for muscle cars and what not. As far as the undertray im lost. When i bought the car it was just a shell and had literally nothing in the engine bay.
 

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Yea hense cowl induction hoods for muscle cars and what not. As far as the undertray im lost. When i bought the car it was just a shell and had literally nothing in the engine bay.
Cowl induction is the opposite of what you need, IF air flow across your IC/Radiator is your problem.

The undertray is a black plastic piece that connects to the bottom of the front bumper and goes back to the oil pan. It keeps air coming under the bumper from going into the engine bay. This keeps the pressure in the e-bay low enough to promote airflow across the radiator.

First things first - Check your temps with the fan running at the speeds you were having issues. If that fixes it, airflow is your problem. If it does not fix it, you have a problem with the cooling system.
 
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