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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to 0CooL, I have a spare y7 head that I can finally wrench on, learn from, and hopefully have a nice little project with.

So what kinda of head work and setup would benefit a supercharged motor?

Id perfer something simple, seeing this is my first real mechanical work, and I dont have a lot of money to blow. Also, little to tune, if any at all.

Besides cleaning the dirty SOB, possibly a little porting, I get lost on what to do after that!!! Cam maybe? Bigger valves and better valve springs?

:hammer: I do not know a lot about the parts upgrade wise and what is best. That is why I am asking all of you intelligent people!!! =)
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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all about QUALITY and not QUANITY flow.

SC motor sees postive manifold pressure just like the turbo motor.

REALLY pay attention to the exhaust side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
all about QUALITY and not QUANITY flow.

SC motor sees postive manifold pressure just like the turbo motor.

REALLY pay attention to the exhaust side.
Thanks transzex!!! You always have something to say!!

So should I really be building this setup like it was for a turbo?

I read sometimes that upgrading valves/springs/cam isnt really that helpful in boosted applicatons?! Like the difference between stock and upgraded parts is minimal unless you basically go all out on it?!? Are these statements true??

Tunning is still my big concern, will these upgrades require much tunning? Can stock fuel components handle these?
 

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FF Misfit
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If this is all going to be DIY I would just clean up the casting ridges on the intake and exhaust ports, get a b-series TB, and a better cam. When choosing a cam, considering this is a forced induction application, I'd find a cam that has high lift and only med duration since the SC will be forcing air into the combustion chambers n/e way.

As for tuning, if you want to see optimal results, I'd do a OBD2-OBD1 conversion and have it chipped w/ Uberdata, Crome, etc. It's not very expensive to do and will far exceed a FMU or piggyback which has no way to modify the timing parameters to compensate for the additional fuel.

EDIT: I'd also get some DSM 450's and a Walbro 190lph fuel pump as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If this is all going to be DIY I would just clean up the casting ridges on the intake and exhaust ports, get a b-series TB, and a better cam. When choosing a cam, considering this is a forced induction application, I'd find a cam that has high lift and only med duration since the SC will be forcing air into the combustion chambers n/e way.
Thanks boostdeliquent, exactly what I wanted to know. I always thought the turbo cams and sc cams would be the same, I just wanted to make sure. Makes perfect sense.

As for tuning, if you want to see optimal results, I'd do a OBD2-OBD1 conversion and have it chipped w/ Uberdata, Crome, etc. It's not very expensive to do and will far exceed a FMU or piggyback which has no way to modify the timing parameters to compensate for the additional fuel.
EDIT: I'd also get some DSM 450's and a Walbro 190lph fuel pump as well.
This is my only problem being an automatic still, ill change eventually. However is it "necessary" to have the added fuel and timing for the cam to work, period. Basically can I just slap a cam in and basically be done with it until I upgrade the fuel, etc???

Thanks again
 

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Front Engine Dragste
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since its a blown app, you can't really mess up the heads too bad.
I will say forced inductions cars want quantity over quality. Forcing air in is much more forgiving than drawing it in.

Any type of motor I have seen that is forced has much bigger runners than most other n/a type cars. This goes for the Brodix heads on Tim Lynch/Brad Brands outlaw 10.5 cars and this set of Canfield BBC 340cc heads here at the shop that will go on a 572 with a 10-71.
 

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Turbo and SC cams really are not the "same". Maximum effort turbo engine could prefer for a hot cam just like NA, but SC engine won't work with long duration. Endyn seems to just run stock cams and disable VTEC in their B-series SC engines.
I would probably run a stock cam, or regrind with ~stock duration but more lift (+.400) for SC.
Problem is that SC engine (with positive displacement charger) will bleed boost(and fuel) out into exhaust with long-duration cam, especially at lower revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I emailed Delta Cams what they suggest for my setup, this was their reply;

"our 272-260 grind would be the best grind for your forced air intake."

Not that I don't trust them, but I want to run it by you guys.

Would this cam necessitate the need for new springs & retainers?

Would bigger valves help me at all in this setup?

Thanks again everyone.
 

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I would probably run titanium retainers with oem springs.
Oversized, black-nitrided valves with undercut stems would be a must for this application IMO.
 
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