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I don't have them, and I'm fine...KNOCK ON WOOD...You should be fine if you're motor is healthy and you're tune is good.
 

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just curious about how many miles u got on your motor? see usually u wanna change your HG and to ARP's before you boost because the stock headstuds are torque to yield bolts from the factory...meaning they are one time use and a little over torqued to the point that they are stretched while hold the head down . they wernt ment to handle anymore pressure and can actually bbreak or cause your head to lift...IMO the money for the ARP and HG is worth more than loosing your head....but im not doubting that stock headbolts have taking abuse before and been fine, for a little while that is...:jesus:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i have no idea, its a d15b vtec ive put atlesat 15k + i think around 10K from the guy i got it from. then what ever it had in japan
 

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head studs for a z6 will work on a d15b vtec right?
Call ARP and ask them.

If you don't want to spend the money now for ARP's. At least make sure all your head bolts are tighten to the OEM torque. Pull the valve cover and toruqe the bolts to the 52ftlbs or whatever it is. I have found OEM bolts sometimes loosen up.

After you install the ARP's (after you have the shaved to make sure it's flat) retoruqe the ARP nut's after about 10 heat cycles. Do this as needed until the nut's stop moving.

Also make sure the tune is near perfect. It's important.
 
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