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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
95 b7 block, z6 head, z6 cam gear, z6 timing belt. I followed the service manual procedure of jumping the service check plug and using a timing light and I couldn't get the marks right. The dizzy all the way retard I can't get it past 18ish degress. All the way advanced and I can't see the marks at all. What am I doing wrong?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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1/2 tooth cam timing error, something I've been preaching about for 20 years.

Might be 2000+ posts on here covering it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I found a few posts somewhat addressing this, but I like interacting with people. Mainly the experts since they always have an immediate correct answer or at least an immediate direction to look, after all it is a community. Would that affect spool up at all? The car seems to idle, run, and drive just fine.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Considering I'm the person who discovered the issue, you need to time the cam correctly first.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
20 long years of guiding fresh young minds in the right direction. So, y8 gear and belt and 1 tooth advanced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, well I went and got a y8 gear and belt, set it to tdc and advanced one tooth and i still can't get base timing set correctly because I can't get the car to idle correctly at 650-750. The car starts and idles just fine. No weird surging or anything but it idles low. Not sure on the exact rpm but it's just a hair above the bottom line. Maybe my tach is off and it is idling at the right rpm or something I don't know. I've got a b16 throttle body on a port matched z6 intake mani. No fitv, and the iacv is connected but bypassed.
 

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Classic Man
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Car doesnt idle right, not using idle motor, suggest you use idle motor. :)

Good job on figuring out the Y series cam gear to compensate for the different deck heights of the blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Car doesnt idle right, not using idle motor, suggest you use idle motor. :)

Good job on figuring out the Y series cam gear to compensate for the different deck heights of the blocks.
I shall try that sir. Being in Texas I was attempting to keep as much coolant out of the throttle body and mani as possible to gain a few ponies. Yeah thanks I guess lol. I kinda already knew some of that but you know how it goes, do a search, search some more, but the search doesn't always yield a definitive answer and occasionally leaves you with more questions so you seek real time feedback. One of the write ups is a little confusing due to the grammar of the sentence. It says use a y8 gear and belt 1 tooth advanced, but that could be interpreted as y8 gear AND belt, then advance 1 tooth, or it could be y8 gear and belt (as in the z6 belt from the original vtec conversion) 1 tooth advanced. I hope I'm making sense.
 

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Classic Man
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IACV doesnt need coolant. All the coolant does it prevent icing in near freezing conditions.

If you use the Y cam gear and cant get it to time, slip it back the other way a tooth. Itll work perfectly one way. lol
 

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Classic Man
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It will idle one tooth off in either direction. It just wont run as good as it would set correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With it idling super low? Right now at whatever rpm it's idling at the timing is very close to 18 degrees btdc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's my day off today so I'm about to head outside and I'm going to mess with it and see what I can get done.
 

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Classic Man
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Let it warm up. Make sure the IACV is working. Worst case scenario, warm it up, and set the idle to 750-800rpm with the idle screw, and if that wont do it, the throttle body stop screw can be used.

Toss a timing light on there and take a peek. IIRC the distributor will be almost maxed out in one direction or the other. It wont really be in the middle. Are you running OBD0? IIRC anything OBD1 should run 16 degrees.


Take a picture of your cam gear, straight on directly, when the crank is at TDC. That will give us a good idea if that is proper. Should be a quick thing to do and provide a lot of assurance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I got the timing and idle set right. It was the iacv idle screw causing the low idle. It was way too far out. As for the dizzy It's not maxed out at all it's barely off center. Used a timing light and set it at approx 16 degress btdc as stated per the fsm. It revs much slower than normal, but the wastegate flange on my mani is basically falling off so now I have a huge exhaust leak, and I need to re-do the valve lash. Not sure if that would cause slow revs though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, I'm still having somewhat of an issue. Timing is set at 16 degrees. y8 gear and belt advanced 1 tooth and I was able to get it, but now the car revs super slow until about 2k and then the rev speed returns to normal. I set the cold lash today using an object in the cylinders to find tdc (the timing cover for the head is no more so I can't rely on those marks) and it took quite awhile to get the car to start and stay on. Once the car did stay on, it revd slow AND was sputtering AND my idle was jacked up and too low again. What the hell is going on? Did I miss something in how to do the lash?
 

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Ok, I'm still having somewhat of an issue. Timing is set at 16 degrees. y8 gear and belt advanced 1 tooth and I was able to get it, but now the car revs super slow until about 2k and then the rev speed returns to normal. I set the cold lash today using an object in the cylinders to find tdc (the timing cover for the head is no more so I can't rely on those marks) and it took quite awhile to get the car to start and stay on. Once the car did stay on, it revd slow AND was sputtering AND my idle was jacked up and too low again. What the hell is going on? Did I miss something in how to do the lash?
set your cam timing 1 tooth advanced, it will idle fine that way, retarding the timing will make it idle like crap but will perform better on the top end.

i would open the idle air screw all the way up and start the car. it should rev up and bounce off the overrunning fuel limiter (set around 2000 rpm's with tps at 0%) then slowly start closing the idle control screw, you should be able to find a place where it start easily but doesnt bounce off of the limiter. all that screw is, is a variable air leak into the intake manifold similar to a cracked pcv hose. check your map sensor and make sure its working correctly and seeing manifold vac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have the cam timing 1 tooth advanced. Turning clockwise if your facing the cam gear correct? When you say idle air screw, you're talking about on the iacv right? If you're talking about the throttle body I don't have a screw at all. b16 throttle body. I do have a 3 bar map on there and it *was* idling correctly but that was with the timing all jacked up before I got it set. I'm going outside right now and I'm going to put on the oem map sensor to try to eliminate any variables. TPS is set at .50-.51 at 0% and 4.56 at wot.
 
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