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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2 eg hatches and I am using the old car as a donor vehicle. The donor car has a really nice feeling suspension the guy I got it from said it is setup with tien Springs on kyb shocks/struts.

Now from what I can see it looks like the rear may sit very slightly lower then the front and the guy told me he had a blown b20 in the car before. I got the donor hatch with no engine and dropped a d15b in it. Is it sitting like that b/c the setup was for a b series engine maybe?

I looked at my bone stock hatch (the new one) yesterday and I swear it also has a slight slump in the rear so maybe it's fine idk.

Can I flip the front with the rear to give it a better looking stance? (maybe that's a total n00bish question)
 

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'92 CX Twincharged D
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Flip the springs from front to back.

Or lock and see if they where installed right, if these spring are of progressive rate they may have been installed upside down.
 

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I can take a few photos lator today maybe if it don't rain, so I can flip the springs only the shock/spring altogether can't be moved? So I would have to compress the spring and move it to the rear shock if so?

Progressive Springs? Are those coiled tighter at top or shaped different on one side? I think I've seen those not sure
 

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Progressive Springs? Are those coiled tighter at top or shaped different on one side? I think I've seen those not sure
Yes , tighter coils go up
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll check to see if they are progressive bout only thing I remember is they were green an did have a mark that said tein lol. Wonder if tein marked the springs anywere else telling model number etc.
 

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Progressives don't matter if up or down. But yes tighter up top is correct. Measure to the bottom of the car near the jack points to see if it is actually lower in rear. Front wheel wells are larger than rears to have room for steering. This makes them look higher when lowered.
 

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You cannot swap front to back.

You have normal lowering springs on OEM replacement shocks. Your lowering springs are just like OEM springs, only made shorter. Tein brand lowering springs basically have OEM/stock spring rates which are SOFT in the rear. The rear springs on BOTH your cars have likely sagged a bit over the years. Also, LINEAR type springs are the ones that can be flipped upside down (not that it would accomplish anything). Linear springs, like the ones included in adjustable coilovers, are flat on their tops/bottoms.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So kyb shocks = nothing special just a oem replacement? So what could I do to get a slightly raised rear with a lower front? Or maybe just leave the stock rear on and lower the front with the donor cars tein/kyb setup for now?

I mean if I did just change out the front it would prob still ride nice but I'm thinking it will be just until I scrap up the cash fora nicer midrange suspension under a grand at least.
 

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So kyb shocks = nothing special just a oem replacement?
Well... KYB does offer a high-end, high-performance strut that has adjustable damping and can handle high spring rates. That version is the "AGX". They would be painted red and have a dial on the side. I assume you have the normal oem ones that are MUCH less expensive and would match well with Tein lowering springs.


You could swap out the front, I guess... put a heavy-ass sub in the back to make your stock rears sag more, and bob's yer uncle. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I believe these are just grey/silver with I think a yellow and red sticker or yellow and black that says kyb on it.

I do have a single 12 inch woofer in back but whole setups maybe 50 lbs. I have to look for a mid range camber kit before I swap the front to see what it looks like though. Dumbass who had my donor hatch just threw the suspension kit on with no type of camber adjustment so I have replaced front axle with a Tough one axle since I've had it and a moog lower ballpoint as well.
 

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some negative camber won't wear tires very much, if that's what you're worried about. It's the out of spec TOE that quickly kills tires after altering ride height. I don't like the looks of a lot of neg camber in the rear so I use the cheap n easy 'washer trick' for that.

Also, if you had a bad cv-joint and lower ball joint, those things shouldn't suffer much more wear n tear because of negative camber. Those parts just wear out all the time anyway...

I don't mean to say that camber kits are useless. By all means, get some if you want. It's just that they're usually not necessary for most builds.
 

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Well... KYB does offer a high-end, high-performance strut that has adjustable damping and can handle high spring rates. That version is the "AGX". They would be painted red and have a dial on the side.
The civic agx don't have dials on the side. They adjust at the top of the strut.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
some negative camber won't wear tires very much, if that's what you're worried about. It's the out of spec TOE that quickly kills tires after altering ride height. I don't like the looks of a lot of neg camber in the rear so I use the cheap n easy 'washer trick' for that.

Also, if you had a bad cv-joint and lower ball joint, those things shouldn't suffer much more wear n tear because of negative camber. Those parts just wear out all the time anyway...

I don't mean to say that camber kits are useless. By all means, get some if you want. It's just that they're usually not necessary for most builds.


Well that's good to know I was under the impression I would wear out things in front end or rear if I dropped it since it might cause strain or wear on parts in areas idk. Figured that's why my axle was going out on lowered hatch but never had a issue with the stock hatchie.
 
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