yes i knew that about the ridge reamer. the walls are in good shapetake and run your finger nail up the cylinder walls, if you feel a ridge near the top, you need to get a ridge reamer as well, prolly better off taking block to a machine shop to be safe though...
yes the factory crosshatching is still visible. i am still going to measure them. is there a certain grit i would want to use when honing?looks like a cylinder hone to me...lol jk You can get different grit stones for them as well. Can you still see the factory hone crosshatching on your cylinder walls? If not, you may want to think about a slight overbore.... or at least having them measured to see if they are still in spec, just my 2 cents
that is something that would be in the service manual, or your local machine shop/engine rebuild shop could answer for you. I just mentioned the different grits to make you aware so you wouldn't just plunge the hone in there without checking first :TU:
I was going to hone my block myself, but ended up going 20 over. But during my research, I figured that a ball-hone is the best way to go for deglazing and getting a good surface from which to break in new rings. Something like this...is the tool i linked used for deglazing?