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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want the quickest spooling turbo I can find that will still allow me to possibly get to 300whp. Do you guys think this is a good one?

Also, just what is the difference between all the variations of GT25xx and GT28xx? Garrett's product pages don't really say, but the stated HP ranges vary by a lot! Is it just changes to the inducer/exducer, or are the housings different?
 

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Ignore this! You won't hit 300 WHP with a GT2560R. It can't flow enough air. Correction at bottom!

The break down of Garrett discriptions is this AABBCC(R): AA is the series, either the old T series or the newer GT series; BB is the turbine wheel and tells you is the turbos frame size; CC is the compressor exducer diameter in millimeters; and finaly if there's an R it's a ball bearing CHRA, no R and it's sleeve bearings.

Ignore this also, same reason! Realistically a GT2860RS with the .64 A/R turbine housing is the smallest turbo to get you to 300 WHP. If you want a little more room to play then use the GT2871R. Then you can run lower boost pressures keeping air temps down and lowering your risk of detonation.

EDIT: Did some math, and here's where everything I posted is wrong:

For 300 crank HP you need 34.38 LB/MIN air flow with these factors: 12.5:1 air fuel ratio and .55 BSFC. Useing a 15% drivetrain loss that means you need 345 crank HP to put you around 300WHP.

345 CHP means you need 39.53 LB/MIN of air, and useing 1590cc displacement (71 CID) you need 46.82 PSI Absolute pressure, or 34.12 PSI manifold pressure useing a factor of 2 PSI pressure loss from the compressor outlet to your manifold. That means you need an absolute pressure ratio of 3.2.

If you plot these points on a GT2860RS your off the map, your also going to come up short on a GT2871R. The smallest turbo that will regularly make 300 WHP is the GT3071R, the fastest way to spool it is going to be the .64 A/R. Full boost would happen around 6000 RPM.

All this is based on atmospheric pressure at sea level (14.7 PSI) and an inlet tempature of 125 degrees and a 7200 RPM limit.
 

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Id prefer a 16g/big/16g6 evo mitsu turbo, cheap and works pretty well. 300hp is quite a bit, what kind of setup do you have? 2 dudes around here use 14b (kinda small) mitsu turbos because they are a dime a dozen and last practically forever. (well at least a year and a half and still going)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am [slowly] building a D16 stroked and overbored to 1.8l, with head work, oversized valves, etc.
 

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i'm prob going with a Garrett T3/T04E 50 trim.

I'm going for 300WHP also.

I WAS gonna go with the EVO III 16G turbo but after some further research and asking around i found out that i will be maxing that turbo out and if i decide that i want more power i will have to get another turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I've been discussing at length with Guillaume at Blaast Performance, and I will probably go with a T3/T04E .48/.60 46 trim, ported turbine housing and stage 1-1/2 turbine wheel (59mm to 65mm turbine wheel upgrade). Should provide similar spool as a GT BB turbo, but lower cost and more top end.

The last thing I am unsure of is the choice of internal or external wastegate. I am leaning towards going with an internal wastegate at 7psi, then using the boost controller function in my AEM EMS to go higher (along with a GM boost solenoid).
 
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