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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have a 94 civic lx. Came with d15b7 and the headgasket popped so I picked up a z6 head to make me a mini me. Well after all was complete I went to crank and check engine was on but it wasn't before even after I blew the headgasket. I tested main relay and was ok but bought one anyways from a buddy who half a new one. O btw I did check codes it was solid so a code zero no power at fuel pump crank no start pump runs off battery so I know its good. I cleaned the g101 bumper to valve cover and trans grounds. I noticed tape on g101 took it off and was split. I spliced new wires and I realized by messing with turn wires that the one blk. Wire that goes to the driver side connector. Would make engine light blink and fade when rubbed or tapped on ground but remains on. All relays good btw. Also it's only this one wire that does it from yhe g101. I got curious and touched to battery positive and it shut off the light but still only cranks. I fallowed it to the connector on driver shock tower cut it and. Tried to ground it but same results. I have searched all over for a solution and habe put a lot time and money into my car. I love my civic andI won't get rid of it . I hope someone can help me. I also got 2 new ecus p28s and have the original p06 I moved and I don't know many ppl here so I don't have another civic to test ecus but I doubt all 3 are bad. I dunno if I left anything out. Sry if I did in super tired right now getting ready for work also thanks in advance to all who have any input.
 

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Asshole
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Cutting wires because you don't know what they're for is stupid and you're only making your problem worse. Nobody that isn't there with the car can help you after doing that.
 

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You need to read the post again. I never cut the wire because i don't know where it goes. I cut the wire near the shock tower hoping that the break in the wire was between the shock tower and the housing it ground to. Also it's really easy to put the wires back together and it's just like before. I'm new to this website not cars . Thanks for at least taking the times to read and reply back thou.


I also like those valve covers you have up. Do you sell them?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you sir i will try that out tomarrow morning and let post results much appreciated
 

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I could not read through the first post, and I really tried.

wiring sucks to have to deal with, but is super easy on these cars at least once you have a diagram and fuse locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok sorry let me try this again. After i installed the new head the check engine light came on. I checked the main relay and it's ok, the 15 amp fuse under the dash it's ok, the fuel pump runs of jumper wires and all injectors where in spec when i checked the resistance. So at g101 there are 2 rings each with 2 wires.One of those rings has the ground for then temp sensor. So let me try to describe what i did.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If I MOVED the ring with the ground to temp sensor such as rubbed, tapped, scrapped or wherever on ground while the other ring was held stationary on ground the light started to dim and flutter at times appearing off. When i tried it the other way nothing happened. I also saw tape from previous owner around these wires and when i looked the wires where split but after i fixed them i got the same results. I unintentionally touched one of the wires to battery positive and the light shut off. It was the wire that WASN'T the temp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I dug deeper into the wires and followed this ground wire to the connector on the driver side shock tower. I grounded the 3 remaining wires ( The 2 wires that were on the other ring that where ok and the now loose temp sensor ground wire that used to share a ring the wire that leads to the driver side.) and touched this single wire to battery positive and the light shut off . I figured there was a break in the wire so i cut it buy the shock tower added new wire and grounded it but nothing. I touched it to battery positive and it shut off yet light again. So that's where I'm at so far. I'm lost and i work i lot so i get out there when i can but its been a pain trying to figure this out so i hope i did a better job for you guys to read and i really do appreciate all the help.
 

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yEaH tHaT gUy!!!
my hatchy
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This is so confusing.


Was the car running prior?
How did you blow the gasket?
What did you do to garness prior to head swap?
 

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Car ran fine only issue was just the idle thermo valve. It over heated one day while warming up after the smoke cleared failed radiator cap and thermostat where found.Before it over heated it ran fine except the idle problem all i did was clean it up and out a new head on there was never a check engine light in before. When i bought it, it was a project car then it blew the gasket and was informed i had baby no.2 otw so it sat till this spring/ summer when i put the new head on.


Also i never touched the harness before.
 

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go through every plug on the intake and engine and look at wire colors and 100% verify everything i plugged into the proper place.

START from there.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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if theres power at the ground, sounds like you have a short somewhere
 

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this sounds kinda like when you forget to attach the ground at the thermostat housing. i would start there and make sure all of the wires are still crimped into the ring terminal, as they seem to fray and break causing issues.

If you really have power at ground i would look into the alternator as the culprit, ive seen a couple of posts on here about the diodes failing in the alternator and shunting power to ground. disconnect the alternator completely and check all of your under hood fuses/wires as they would have been fried when the alt shorted.
 

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go through every plug on the intake and engine and look at wire colors and 100% verify everything i plugged into the proper place.

START from there.
Ok will do thanks

if theres power at the ground, sounds like you have a short somewhere
Correct i was hoping it was in between the thermostat housing and driver side shock tower connector which is why i cut spliced there But it didn't work

this sounds kinda like when you forget to attach the ground at the thermostat housing. i would start there and make sure all of the wires are still crimped into the ring terminal, as they seem to fray and break causing issues.

If you really have power at ground i would look into the alternator as the culprit, ive seen a couple of posts on here about the diodes failing in the alternator and shunting power to ground. disconnect the alternator completely and check all of your under hood fuses/wires as they would have been fried when the alt shorted.
Yes the wires were freyed that's why I cut and spliced in new wires with ring connectors. Thanks for the info on the alternator I'll check it out but all the fuses are good but I will check again but i had replaced the alternator a few months prior to this


There's always power at an open ground, if it hasn't been grounded then it's just sitting there
Correct
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Its been a while but I looked at wiring diagram and that black wire grounds the vss and oil switch.I can't figure out how to up load a picture of it but its in my Hanes book. So I'm either guna hunt down wires or just run new wires.
 

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Make sure all the sensors plugs are plugged into the right spots on the motor. Sounds like something is shorting out feeding power to something that shouldn't have power.

What harness/jumper harness are you using?
 
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