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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm running a built D16Y8 with 75.5mm Vitaras, custom length FJ dist rods.

New:
OEM oil pump no shim or port
Clevite STD bearings (.002" clearance)
Rods, pistons, rings, gaskets, etc.
Micropolished and chamfered crank

Revving to 7200rpm
Stock head

I made 235whp at 8psi for 12,000 miles on the stock motor, then pulled it for my built motor. Nothing was broken, I just took advantage of my Thanksgiving break to get the motor in. Used the following turbo for 12k miles with no issues.

1st setup: T3 60 trim .60/.63ar from a Thunderbird
Made 300whp at 20 psi, 2 days later I was boosting fine when I hear a loud whining sound and no more boost. Compressor nut came off, major major side-side and in-out shaftplay.

2nd setup: Sent that T3 60 trim out to mhamrick to get rebuilt, he upgraded the compressor housing to a T4 with a 44 trim compressor. New CHRA, stage 1 turbine, and was balanced. Installed a new -3an feed line and the appropriate adapters. Kept it at 12psi following mhamrick's advice, boosted great. 1 day later, I'm at 12 psi and it suddenly drops to 8 psi. I pull over immediately, notice that there is a rattling noise at idle. So I poke around and found the turbo compressor was making contact with the compressor housing. 5 hours before this I checked the shaftplay and there was very little side to side, no in/out at all. Now it has noticeable in/out, very little side to side shaftplay.

The drain is above oil level, fairly straight with a 90* bend at the fitting. I had no issues with the drain setup for 12k miles. Oil feed is new. I pulled the drain and let it idle for a couple seconds, a good bit of oil came out, telling me the feed is not clogged.

Freshly changed oil both times the turbo blew, I just can't figure out why I keep blowing turbos. The car's been down for over a month now, and being my DD I need to fix it ASAP.

Any suggestions?
 

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95 ex coupe
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buy a brand new turbo!
cant expect much from a used turbo.
and i know mhamrick knows his turbo stuff. but nothing will be as good as a new turbo from the factory with perfect specs.
 

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buy a brand new turbo!
cant expect much from a used turbo.
and i know mhamrick knows his turbo stuff. but nothing will be as good as a new turbo from the factory with perfect specs.
QFT
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't use a restrictor with the -3an line in the 2nd setup (freshly rebuilt turbo). That turbo has a new CHRA from Garrett per mhamrick.

I just don't want to spent the $700 on a new turbo and risk the chance that it may be something wrong with my setup the whole time
 

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Boost Gets You Laid
Del Sol
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Seems odd to have that premature of failure of the centersection bearing. Is the BOV functioning correctly. I know compressor surge from running no BOV or faulty BOV can rape a turbo pretty quickly. Other than that IDK m8
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't hear any compressor surge, the BOV hasn't changed since I was boosted on my stock motor.
 

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92 Civic Hatch
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I didn't hear any compressor surge, the BOV hasn't changed since I was boosted on my stock motor.
Well, theres a few things that can destroy turbos, or eat their bearings...

I know Mhamrick is quite meticulous (at least portrays himself that way, which I believe) with turbo rebuilds. It is possible he made a mistake, or something in the rebuild failed possilby. If you are positive you are getting good oil flow through the turbo what else is there to harm it, besides foreign debri going through the turbo?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Does the fact that there is noticeable in and out play whereas barely side-to-side play help at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another possibility mhamrick mentioned: I used a thin layer of permatex between the feed flange and turbo. That could have gotten in and damaged it. If that's the case I'm officially retarded. Any other ideas? Feed is confirmed good, disconnected turbo end and when cranking a nice stream of oil came out
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It shouldn't *theoretically* be starving the turbo with a -3an line, people have used it with the same setup hundreds of times. -4an line will supply too much oil and blow the seals from what I've read.

That's what I'm afraid of, if my motor's not seeing enough oil pressure I'll have a lot more to be worried about than just the turbo.

I do have an oil pressure gauge, however it stays at max. I am trying to figure out what the issue is, because it was "working" when I bought it. Grounded to chassis and battery to no avail. The sender has 2 terminals on it, GRD and WK
 

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Does the gauge actually show PSI. While the -4 might supply to much oil for most motors it might be what you need with yours or replace your oil pump and see if it changes. I really feel that this could be something bigger. I could see if it was pushing oil past the seals thats an easy fix.

Get another sending unit they are about 12-15 bucks if Im not mistaken. I have used glowshifts and it worked great.

Oh ave you taken the drain off to make sure there are no obstruction on that end as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yessir, I took the drain off and let the motor idle for a second, stream of oil came out the drain. Did the same thing with the feed, just cranked it and oil came spurting out of the feed.

I will get a new sender (or new gauge for that matter, Prosport sucks!)
 
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