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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting ready to tear apart my recently pulled d15b.When I first started reading on this web site transzex told me it is possible to build a turbo d that is reliable,powerful and fuel efficient(when not on the throttle).well I am gonna give it my best shot.So transzex if you read this please feel free to jump in and tell me where I am messing up or if what I am going to attempt is not possible.I drive about 500 miles every week.Average rpm's is between 2500 and 3000 so I would like to not be boosting until after 3k rpm's.I have been trying to read and find out where to get pistons and better rods for the d15b,and I am starting to think I should start with a different base motor.I like the d15b because I was getting great fuel mileage as long as I was doing normal driving.I know there is alot of controversy about vtec vs non but it seems to me that the vtec motor should get better fuel mileage.As far as head work goes,I have ported alot of Harley,dirt bike,quads and small block and big block fords but never a Honda(car).I assume it would be the same but please correct me if I am wrong.ARP rod bolts are usually a must have item but once again not sure for a honda.I will have the motor apart tomorrow and will give an update asap.Feel free to jump in and give advice or bash,either one is welcome:hammer:
 

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lol your not gona get bashed, its the people who come on here like "fuck you all, im gangsta gangsta i know my shit"

your going to either want to rebuilt your stock block then turbocharge it as it stands, Or dump 900$ in rods and pistons alone. all depends where you wana go from there. A d16 block is alot cheaper, you can spend about 300$ for vitara's and TT rods (or even cheaper, LS rods) and get to the same point. If i were you, i would part out the bottom end on the block, because the d15b crankshaft is a hot item. then buy a good d16 block build it up with vitara pistons,then slap your head onto that block.
 

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you should check out craigslist.com if you already haven't cause sometimes you can find good deals on blocks heads even whole engines plus parts hear and there...this being for a good d16 block like cervan said cuase i just got a good d16y7 block off there and my friend needed a b18 head and got one off there too
 

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Discussion Starter #5
lol your not gona get bashed, its the people who come on here like "fuck you all, im gangsta gangsta i know my shit"

your going to either want to rebuilt your stock block then turbocharge it as it stands, Or dump 900$ in rods and pistons alone. all depends where you wana go from there. A d16 block is alot cheaper, you can spend about 300$ for vitara's and TT rods (or even cheaper, LS rods) and get to the same point. If i were you, i would part out the bottom end on the block, because the d15b crankshaft is a hot item. then buy a good d16 block build it up with vitara pistons,then slap your head onto that block.
Well I forgot that I am gangster because my mom said so,and I know my shit but I forgot it.Oh yeah and fuck you guys!but thanks for your help:haha: just kidding.Thanks for the info so far.Now I am rethinking everything and been checking craigslist.The only d16 on there threw a rod out the block.When you say "buy a good block" do you mean buy one that is in good shape or do you mean find a specific one?I am still researching if I am going to need a bunch of specialty stuff to run the vtec head on a d16 bottom end or not,but so far from what I read it sounds like I should be able to get most common tune up parts fairly easy once its built.once again thanks for the input so far.
 

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Well I forgot that I am gangster because my mom said so,and I know my shit but I forgot it.Oh yeah and fuck you guys!but thanks for your help:haha: just kidding.Thanks for the info so far.Now I am rethinking everything and been checking craigslist.The only d16 on there threw a rod out the block.When you say "buy a good block" do you mean buy one that is in good shape or do you mean find a specific one?I am still researching if I am going to need a bunch of specialty stuff to run the vtec head on a d16 bottom end or not,but so far from what I read it sounds like I should be able to get most common tune up parts fairly easy once its built.once again thanks for the input so far.
Well when i say block, what i mean is one that you can bore out atleast, a block that is not totally trashed, rod out the side = something you dont want. something like "needs rebuilt" is good, but if it says "spun rod bearing" or "rod knock" run away unless you dont mind buying another crankshaft. What your looking for is a good block that you can bore out .20 over fit the vitara pistons into and have a good crankshaft to work with. You can get all of the parts you will need for your engine from dealers on this website. Such as RC-autoworks, GO-autoworks, Exospeed, budgetracingparts, and so on. so as a small list of things to get will be:

ARP headstuds (they are much stronger than stock headbolts and stop headlift)
vitara pistons
Tuner Toy rods or something of the sort.
Turbo camshaft (Not needed, but helps alot you can use the stock springs/retainers as long as you stay under the rpm limit)
Z6 headgasket (OEM headgaskets can withstand well over 300hp, felpro is a good make for headgaskets)

Thats about it other than a rebuild kit off ebay and your turbo kit to slap onto it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the quick replies cervan.I just posted a wanted add on craigslist for a motor.Kinda sucks not to be able to use the d15b bottom end just because piston and rod prices.oh well shit happens i guess.
 

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What about FJ? Didn't he have shorter rods made to work in the D15? I got a few things from him for my build and seems like a real cool cat...I think his rods are a few mm shorter. Just a thought if you want to use the d15.
 

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so as a small list of things to get will be:

ARP headstuds (they are much stronger than stock headbolts and stop headlift)
vitara pistons
Tuner Toy rods or something of the sort.
Turbo camshaft (Not needed, but helps alot you can use the stock springs/retainers as long as you stay under the rpm limit)
Z6 headgasket (OEM headgaskets can withstand well over 300hp, felpro is a good make for headgaskets)

Thats about it other than a rebuild kit off ebay and your turbo kit to slap onto it.
I don't mean to step on your post Cervan, but I just wanna offer up my perspective.

ARP head studs are not really a must have unless you're running big boost (> around 12lbs). Still, I like to recommend them because you can re-use them if you have to lift the head off. If you're on a real tight budget and staying in low boost then Honda head bolts are fine.

Be careful about going with a turbo cam if you're planning on running your car between 0-3k rpm and out of boost most of the time. You may want to look into how the cam will mess with your mileage if that's important.

I prefer OEM and Cometic HGs over Felpro simply because some of the other Felpro gaskets I've seemed to have inferior quality. My first hand experience is that OEM and Cometic have not been problematic.

Sorry I don't know much about the D15s to give any advice on that side.
 

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This where I come in and fuck it all up if it is the jdm D15B than the d16 stuff will fit tt rods/vitara pistons then do work. now that being said everything else that they said is fine. I have an A6 that is on lowboost 15 psi for now and I get around 30mpg sometimes more sometimes less it can be done just read all that you can you have what seems to be a good start. Are you going with a kit or what. And what turbo are you thinking sounds like this is just gonna be a DD are you thinking of tracking the car at all
 

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This where I come in and fuck it all up if it is the jdm D15B than the d16 stuff will fit tt rods/vitara pistons then do work. now that being said everything else that they said is fine. I have an A6 that is on lowboost 15 psi for now and I get around 30mpg sometimes more sometimes less it can be done just read all that you can you have what seems to be a good start. Are you going with a kit or what. And what turbo are you thinking sounds like this is just gonna be a DD are you thinking of tracking the car at all
I thought that the pistons would be out of the hole with d16 pistons and rods?

Sql thanks for adding that in, yes if your on a budget arp's are not required but i just struggled with headlift on my build, im getting them because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well I have not been able to read up on this as much as I have wanted to.I have been working alot here lately.I would like to do some research on being able to use the d15b block though.Yes this will be a dd primarily but it will also see a little bit of track time.I have not done alot of research yet to find what turbo set up I am going to use either.I would like to build the motor to be durable enough to handle 15 psi even if I only end up using 8.I dont plan on trying to go cheap with the rebuild.At the same time I dont want to waste money either.I will however probably go cheap with the turbo set up at first and upgrade it slowly as needed.I figure as long as I have a strong foundation(the motor) I can always build on top of it gradually(better turbo parts)I also realise that part probably does sound like a waste of money but that part of the build is not as critical to me at the moment.I guess what I am saying is that I dont mind spending 500 on pistons if thats what I had to do and I also dont mind spending 10 bucks on a turbo setup if it got me started but only lasts 6 months.For me turbo is for my enjoyment and the motor gets me to work everyday.I hope this all makes sense and thanks for the help so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As for the turbo question.....would it be possible to make the car basically run like stock from 3000 rpm and below but have a turbo that comes in around 3000 and scream like a banshee from that point and above?If so That would be the perfect setup for me.Hopefully I will be doing some more reading on this stuff by the end of the weekend if I can get a day off work.Oh yeah I wouldnt mind being able to put a spankin on my buddies 14 second mustang just to get him off my ass about switching to a honda but its not all that important if It cant be driven alot dependably.
 

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I thought that the pistons would be out of the hole with d16 pistons and rods?

Sql thanks for adding that in, yes if your on a budget arp's are not required but i just struggled with headlift on my build, im getting them because of it.
From everything that I have heard or seen if he uses standard eagles not the custom length he should be fine. With the custom length they would come out a little bit
well I have not been able to read up on this as much as I have wanted to.I have been working alot here lately.I would like to do some research on being able to use the d15b block though.Yes this will be a dd primarily but it will also see a little bit of track time.I have not done alot of research yet to find what turbo set up I am going to use either.I would like to build the motor to be durable enough to handle 15 psi even if I only end up using 8.I dont plan on trying to go cheap with the rebuild.At the same time I dont want to waste money either.I will however probably go cheap with the turbo set up at first and upgrade it slowly as needed.I figure as long as I have a strong foundation(the motor) I can always build on top of it gradually(better turbo parts)I also realise that part probably does sound like a waste of money but that part of the build is not as critical to me at the moment.I guess what I am saying is that I dont mind spending 500 on pistons if thats what I had to do and I also dont mind spending 10 bucks on a turbo setup if it got me started but only lasts 6 months.For me turbo is for my enjoyment and the motor gets me to work everyday.I hope this all makes sense and thanks for the help so far.
Check out autoworks he has a nice kit for a nice price that comes with everything you need cast mani and some more for a nice price with a reputable turbo and all.
 

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From everything that I have heard or seen if he uses standard eagles not the custom length he should be fine. With the custom length they would come out a little bit


Check out autoworks he has a nice kit for a nice price that comes with everything you need cast mani and some more for a nice price with a reputable turbo and all.
Ah right, that would work very well. :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finally got a reply from my craigslist ad.a guy has a bare block he will sell me for 30 bucks. It is a d16y7. I will probably buy it but. I wanted to make sure it is a good idea first.I am at work so the only internet I have is my phone and it takes 4ever to search.
 

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I finally got a reply from my craigslist ad.a guy has a bare block he will sell me for 30 bucks. It is a d16y7. I will probably buy it but. I wanted to make sure it is a good idea first.I am at work so the only internet I have is my phone and it takes 4ever to search.
check to make sure the main bearings are not spun, those y motors are infamous for spinning bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It is just a bare block with nothing else.Are all the d16 blocks the same with the internals being different or am I way off here?It is supposed to be a low mileage block and he says the bore looks good on all the cylinders.I will have the bore redone anyways but I wasnt sure if there was a better block I should be looking for.I also found another d16a6 complete motor close to my house but I have not received a response back from him yet on a price(I would rather go this route)
 

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It is just a bare block with nothing else.Are all the d16 blocks the same with the internals being different or am I way off here?It is supposed to be a low mileage block and he says the bore looks good on all the cylinders.I will have the bore redone anyways but I wasnt sure if there was a better block I should be looking for.I also found another d16a6 complete motor close to my house but I have not received a response back from him yet on a price(I would rather go this route)
the a6 would be a better block, the y series blocks had issues with spinning bearings because of the way the oil pumps were designed and the crankshafts. The y crankshafts also had different snout so you could not interchange them between engines.

the a6 will swap with anything between the z6 there allmost the same block. cranks,girdles,heads,bearings you name it.
 
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