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Discussion Starter #1
I have a manual 99 sedan, chipped p28 with a basemap and d16y8 motor.
I'm planning on getting the most out of it, without rebuilding the motor or boosting it.
I have MSD ignition coil kit.
I am going to have this soon:
70mm throttle body
4-2-1 header
zc intake manifold
cold air intake
"2.5 pipe from the header all the way to the muffler, with a silencer instead of the cat converter

I have two questions:
1. A friend told me that thezc intake manifold isbetter than the y8 one. How is that possible if the y8 manifold is bigger?

2. What else can I do to get a little more power?

Thank you.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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4,462 Posts
do more reading.
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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2,200 Posts
I wouldn't get into the whole intake manifold switching fiasco. It does practically nothing if you already have a Y8 intake mani. You won't notice anything and you'll just run into headaches. However, if you run a Skunk2 intake or similar, you will feel a difference in the powerband. But you will also most likely go through a bunch of headaches getting the car to idle properly and whatever else. They're not really plug-n-play like people think. I've never had an issue building a D-Series with ANY D-Series intake manifold. Ever. But I've had small issues every single time I've ever ran a Skunk2.

A real cold air intake that runs down into the bumper is going to help you more than swapping intake manis. Also, since you're already chipped, I've found that getting an adjustable cam gear and advancing or retarding the cam and then tuning can make the car more fun for you. Some people like the cam 2 degrees or so retarded. For daily driving, I like the cam advanced 2 degrees and tuned. Just has more zing.

All the little things add up and make the car more fun to drive.

With that said, and presuming you are in this for the long haul, I would advise getting a Moates Ostrich, a wideband controller, wideband and maybe a Burn2...and really learn the ins and outs of tuning. Especially since HTS is here and is free.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,455 Posts
2.25" exhaust is all you need, MSD kit will do nothing, 70mm TB will likely lose power/driveablitiy, put the cat back on, it doesn't cost power.

Skunk2 intake is the best option. with maybe the smallest B TB there is. Only worth 8 whp on a D16A6 though

AEM long CAI, proper 4-1 header, which there is nothing on the market for cheap. Everything on the market has a too short of collector and necked down piping to about 1 3/4" to fit the factory flange. We can argue 4-2-1 with proper pairing or 4-1 with CW or CCW pairing (it doesn't matter!)

There, just saved you from wasting $1000 on parts that won't do anything. Things haven't changed in 20+ years of D series, 40+ years of overall engine madness.

For example, guess what the difference between a 2.5" and 3" FULL exhaust is on a 350 chp 350 CID Chevy? About 10 lbs, a bit louder, but the same TQ/HP numbers.

Episode 17, no longer on YT....

Now with a much bigger motor and HP, 620 hp at that, slight difference.


You have under 100 CID, move WAY less air volume, and will just make more noise that everyone will hate you for.

PS: The Long CAI goes back to a 1944 MIT/NACA (before NASA) paper about RAM effect tuning. F1 even used adjustable trumpet lengths for a time before they were outlawed. Chrysler did more work with it on the RAMCHARGER setups on the 413 Max Wedge and such setups.


I have posted my Dyno sheets from 1999 showing the difference between a 3" SRI and 2.5" AEM CAI on a puny D15Beast7 which with simple old school mods I took from 85 whp/102chp to 118whp/135chp.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,455 Posts
Also, on a D16Z6, while a Y8 intake and tiny B TB will make more top end power, it looses more under the peak HP in the TQ curve. I never posted the dyno sheets, but track testing at the drag strip, Y8 intake was slower on the launch/60 ft, which was a total of .15 second slower through the traps. Like running a good Edelbrock air gap dual plane intake vs. a Single plane Torker intake, give up too much midrange to outweigh the narrow gains up top.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,455 Posts
LSX swap it.
LS4 with automatic is a very tight fit and heavy as heck. The motor is a PITA to work on in the Buick it came in, would be even worse in a nose heavy Civic.

Yes I have a D16A6, and LSx, and a HEMI in the driveway.
 

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97 Del Sol
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66 Posts
The Y8 Intake Manifold is the UPGRADE part for me hah. I considered the Edelbrock then realized it to be massive overkill (for my goals).
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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The Skunk2 helps it breath much better. It has helped with my B7, A6 and Z6...my issue was needing to tune afterwards and adjusting the IACV valve. I think I had to kill 8 - 10 percent on every motor. I've had issues trying to run the stock ECU with a Skunk2 manifold. Also, the powerband felt better everywhere.

This is also combined with an AEM full CAI with a K&N filter.
 

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I have a manual 99 sedan, chipped p28 with a basemap and d16y8 motor.
I'm planning on getting the most out of it, without rebuilding the motor or boosting it.
I have MSD ignition coil kit.
I am going to have this soon:
70mm throttle body
4-2-1 header
zc intake manifold
cold air intake
"2.5 pipe from the header all the way to the muffler, with a silencer instead of the cat converter

I have two questions:
1. A friend told me that thezc intake manifold isbetter than the y8 one. How is that possible if the y8 manifold is bigger?

2. What else can I do to get a little more power?

Thank you.
If you don't want to up the compression by changing pistons you can swap in a z6 cam, and if you can find a z6 head even better (they're have better airflow)
 
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