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98 Civic CX-T on E85
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Discussion Starter #1
K guys here's my NoOb question of the year...so my friend is selling his GT3076R that has the anti surge housing...i need to know if its to big for my setup...i suck at reading compressor maps but here is a link to the the exact turbo...

Garrett GT3076R

my engine is d16y7 bored .020 vitara fj build. ive decided that my current egay turbo is why i keep getting boost surge and that i need a new turbo...
 

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I would say that that is a perfect size for power and spool. That turbo can make over 400whp on a sohc vitara vtec build in the 20ish psi range.
 

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Yeah it is definitely not too big. The GT30 part indicates the size of the turbine which is relative to the older T3 turbo's. It is close to a T3 turbine to give you an idea. The 76 indicates the compressor exducer size (76mm but in no way indicates inducer size) which is relative to a T4 compressor.

Basically it is newer version of the T3T4 with much better design and effeciency. The ball bearings help spool but they also will withstand a lot more thrust abuse then a typical journal bearing turbo.

For me personally I would not buy a used ball bearing turbo over the internet without a warranty of some sort. They are not like the journal bearing turbo's which can be rebuilt properly for around $200. They are only a couple of places in the USA that can rebuild a Garrett BB turbo and the rebuilds themselves can cost as much as a BB turbo does.

If you can look at it before you buy it (which I assume you can) then check side to side play with your fingers. If you can feel it then it is to much and may not last very long. Make sure the compressor is not touching the housing. Also you should not feel any thrust play at all. Thrust is in and out play. If there is any thrust play at all then I would not buy it unless he gave you a killer deal and would use it only for parts.

Also be sure that it is a Garrett GT30. They do make knock off BB turbos and they look very close to a real GT turbo.

GT3076R TURBO TURBOCHARGER WITH internal wastegate 500+ - eBay (item 130489904944 end time Mar-04-11 00:42:44 PST)
 

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the short bus
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If you can look at it before you buy it (which I assume you can) then check side to side play with your fingers. If you can feel it then it is to much and may not last very long. Make sure the compressor is not touching the housing. Also you should not feel any thrust play at all. Thrust is in and out play. If there is any thrust play at all then I would not buy it unless he gave you a killer deal and would use it only for parts.
^ Actually ,the GT series are ball bearing. Ball bearing shaft clearance is on the looser side. There will be some in and out play so the bearing can be oiled properly. Its not the same as the shaft play with the journal bearings.

Quote from Garrett.
"When the turbo is new, or has not operated for a long period of time allowing most of the oil to drain out, the rotating assembly will move more in the radial direction than a typical journal-bearing turbo because there is no oil in the center housing. This condition is normal. As long as the shaft wheel spins freely and the wheels don't contact their respective housings, the assembly will function properly."

TurboByGarrett.com - FAQ's
 

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Discussion Starter #8
welp i picked up the turbo, here are some pictures of it...i paid 700.00 think that was a fair price?







 

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Radially is different then side to side. On a journal bearing turbo it feels almost notchy as the cartridge wear is usually in one direction. A ball bearing will have the same play in all 360 degrees of rotation.

Both turbos can feel excessive without oil in the cartridge. Best thing when buying used turbos is putting a little oil in before checking for play.

On both BB and Journal you should NOT be able to feel thrust play. None!! The factory spec is .0004"-.0008" which is you can not detect with your hand.

Thanks for the clarification though! (+ rep for you friend)

$700 is not really too much but you were only $200 from buying it new. Still if it is a good turbo and it will ast then the $200 will be better spent in other areas. Personally I think you would like a smaller hotside though as that is pretty big. Maybe a .63 instead or even smaller. The cold side is a good AR.
 

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Radially is different then side to side. On a journal bearing turbo it feels almost notchy as the cartridge wear is usually in one direction. A ball bearing will have the same play in all 360 degrees of rotation.

Both turbos can feel excessive without oil in the cartridge. Best thing when buying used turbos is putting a little oil in before checking for play.

On both BB and Journal you should NOT be able to feel thrust play. None!! The factory spec is .0004"-.0008" which you can not detect with your hand.

Thanks for the clarification though! (+ rep for you friend)

$700 is not really too much but you were only $200 from buying it new. Still if it is a good turbo and it will last then the $200 will be better spent in other areas. Personally I think you would like a smaller hotside though as that is pretty big. Maybe a .63 instead or even smaller. The cold side is a good AR.
 

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Well about two weeks ago I seen some on sale some where and thought it was extremepsi.com but I just looked and they didn't have them that cheap. I know you can get some of the GT line for less then $900 but they are minus the ball bearing.

I thought I had the link saved but I also have about 500 links.

I do turbo rebuilds (journal only) and I can get them through a supplier at a little over his cost. They cost $924 from him minus shipping.

However I KNOW I saw some online around 2 weeks ago that were $900 plus shipping. I almost bought one until I asked my supplier and he said I can get them from him for close to the same cost. I was going to buy it to resell it LOL.

PM me if you are seriously interested in one and I will get you a price shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so my next question is where is the best place on the engine to tap in for coolant lines?? i was thinking iacv or T off the coolant temp sensor on the head?? and is it absolutely necessary to run them? im planning on it but just wondering if the oil is enough to keep it cool.
 

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Yes, run the coolant lines. T the feed off the port coming out of the intake mani near the #4 runner, and T the drain into the IACV drain that goes into the water pipe.
 

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EJ6
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From what ive been hearing from people. If the turbo comes with water ports for cooling. Use it, the manufacturer designed it that way for a reason. :yes:
 

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Yes, run the coolant lines. T the feed off the port coming out of the intake mani near the #4 runner, and T the drain into the IACV drain that goes into the water pipe.
Perfect. just the answer i was looking for +REP!
 

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I ran a GT3076R on my D16z6, 75.5bore, crower stage two turbo cam, E85 fuel, light port work, AFI top mount turbo manifold, 3" exhaust.

Over all driving was very good, pretty much all power was up top! but fun for freeway pulls!! The best 1/4 time was 10.7 @135 the car is 2550 pound with me in it.

I think if your building your setup to go fast then the GT3076 is just fine.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
I ran a GT3076R on my D16z6, 75.5bore, crower stage two turbo cam, E85 fuel, light port work, AFI top mount turbo manifold, 3" exhaust.

Over all driving was very good, pretty much all power was up top! but fun for freeway pulls!! The best 1/4 time was 10.7 @135 the car is 2550 pound with me in it.

I think if your building your setup to go fast then the GT3076 is just fine.
my engine is already built...i just wanted to upgrade from the ching chong turbo i had to a decent one with an anti surge housing...
 

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I am curious as to the difference in spool between the GT2876R and the GT3076R? I know the turbine is different on both of them as well as compressors but they are somewhat comparable.

This is what I was referring to though. The hotside is a little big in my opinion for a daily driver. Its going to hurt your spool but you will be picking up a lot more. A cam will help you a lot.

Also on the cooling ports use them. Absolutely a must to use them. If you tee the waterline from the intake make sure it is the return line. You will be heating the coolant drmatically so be sure that it will not get fed back into other components.
 
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