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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I was wondering where to buy name brand turbos? a google search didn't yeild much. I was also wondering if I could use the plumbing and such, from an ebay turbo kit while using a garret turbo(or other) instead of the turbo included in the ebay kit to save some loot? Maybe fabricate an adapter? I'm wanting to turbo a d16y7. I've done about 1% of the research.
 

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Pipe is pipe as long as you can make sure that everything is air tight then you're golden. If you don't already have a turbo manifold you are going to need one. Most turbos recommended have a T3 flange. I'd look through the forum and see what turbo has been recommended for a similar build and power goals. If you're not going to rebuild the engine or upgrade rods and pistons before boosting it, then a cheap eBay turbo will be plenty to kill the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for your response. Yes I plan on changing the rods and pistons, adding ARP studs, Mls gasket, maybe machining the head(not sure about that one), new ecu, fortifying the cylinders, injectors, grinding out room for the rods, porting and polishing. I would assume the transmission would need to be swapped for one that can handle more power,(Is there sticky threads on what you need to know for turboing?)

my bad, didn't see those stickies.
 

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Thank you for your response. Yes I plan on changing the rods and pistons, adding ARP studs, Mls gasket, maybe machining the head(not sure about that one), new ecu, fortifying the cylinders, injectors, grinding out room for the rods, porting and polishing. I would assume the transmission would need to be swapped for one that can handle more power,(Is there sticky threads on what you need to know for turboing?)

my bad, didn't see those stickies.
There is so so so much info I can promise any question you have has most likely been answered (take advantage of it). Goodluck and have fun
 

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First turbo build? Aim low, have fun, don't blow it up. I recommend either a t25 or t28 turbo. There are tons of threads on those builds on here. Max on your first build should be 200 whp. It'll be fun and it won't die the first day. Well, it shouldn't. There are plenty of suppliers, but if you're not wanting to spend big money, there are options that aren't poor chinesium quality. Or you could even source a used OE turbo off of an Eclipse or Nissan (thinking t25 here).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I see t25's with a multitude of different compressor wheels and turbine wheels sizes. What sizes should I look for for a 200hp build? I understand the benefit of a smaller wheel size is less turbo lag. I came across this Pulsar Turbo GTX2867R GENII Ceramic Dual Ball Bearing Turbo T25 0.64 A/R Turbine | eBay it has a comp wheel of 50/67mm and a turbine wheel of 54/47, would it be possible to run 7-8 psi?

with a different waste gate actuator?

how to lower your waste-gate actuator pressure capacity.

This Garrett GT15 – GT1548 – 200 HP is a more expensive option but from what I have read would likely preform better because the rotor is lighter and smaller and would spool up quicker yielding better bottom end power compared to the pulsar. I like the idea of the pulsar because I could add more boost in the future after gaining some experience,however, I'm not claiming to have good or proper knowledge.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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A basic t25 will get you to 200whp. A GT2860rs is one of the best turbo's that matches our engines characteristics, however you can not get greedy with the disco potato (effectionate nickname of this specific turbo). At 18psi its power potential is 360 hp, so you'd be in the 7psi range with a GT28rs. A balanced version can be had for about $1000 that comes with a 3 year warranty through RAC or Classic Honda. I only suggest this specific turbo because it can grow with you, is perfectly suited for the d16, and if you ever decide to build the engine or drop in a built engine it will make up too about 320-330 at the wheels (depending on head and other mods).

Also for the waste gate actuator, this is what I suggest. It works very well on mine. (I use a GT2860RS and Kinugawa adjustable actuator).

Kinugawa Adjustable Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator Garrett GT25 / GT28 0.5Bar | eBay
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There seems to be some dilemma as to how much hp a stock d16 can handle. Some claim 190 hp others claim 240-250 with proper tuning. I've also read that with improper tuning you can blow the motor at 180 hp, scary. I'm up for the challenge of changing the rods, pistons, crank (apparently using a y8 is good because it has one oil port) and adding a block guard, probably going to re-hone the cylinders. Hope fully an exploding block doesn't send shrapnel through the front panel in case I make a mistake.
 

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There seems to be some dilemma as to how much hp a stock d16 can handle. Some claim 190 hp others claim 240-250 with proper tuning. I've also read that with improper tuning you can blow the motor at 180 hp, scary. I'm up for the challenge of changing the rods, pistons, crank (apparently using a y8 is good because it has one oil port) and adding a block guard, probably going to re-hone the cylinders. Hope fully an exploding block doesn't send shrapnel through the front panel in case I make a mistake.
You want a Z6 crank Heard very mixed things about block guards. Wouldn't do it. If your going to do rods/pistons take your block and head to the machine shop for decking, and they should hone the cylinders. If you get a different crank take it to them too so they can spec it out in relationship to the block to see if you’re good with standard sized bearings.

I made 280 at 13 pounds. Tuner set boost cut at 15 only because I didn’t have a proper boost control set up at the time. So I’m probably around 300 when I can hit target boost. No block guard.

I have no business being a dick here being that I am somewhat retarded. But you gotta get better at doing research. If you want to boost a Honda without building it, B, H or K series would be a way better bet than D series.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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its also easier to write a check and let someone do the hard work for you.
 
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I have no business being a dick here being that I am somewhat retarded.

This mans honesty though!!!!! 👏👏👏


For the original poster. 200 whp is the maximum limit. The y8 is less desirable than the z6, however you can still make your 200whp. Perhaps I wasn't clear earlier. I am a builder and a tuner. I have exploded quite a few Honda's over the years because of greed, stupidity, and overall doing what you're doing right now. Trusting misinformation off of the internet. 200 whp is it. And it'll have hardly any timing in the tune because D series are just finicky that way (small bore, mixed with squish and quench). Block guards can warp the block, so don't need that. If you want something like that, then ship it to CNCWorx and have Jeff do the CSS process to it.


Or don't trust us. Either way. Don't do this right and you'll splatter Honda guts all over the road and have a scrap iron fit.
 

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There seems to be some dilemma as to how much hp a stock d16 can handle. Some claim 190 hp others claim 240-250 with proper tuning. I've also read that with improper tuning you can blow the motor at 180 hp, scary. I'm up for the challenge of changing the rods, pistons, crank (apparently using a y8 is good because it has one oil port) and adding a block guard, probably going to re-hone the cylinders. Hope fully an exploding block doesn't send shrapnel through the front panel in case I make a mistake.
boosting on stock rods is for chum lovers
 

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If you want to boost a Honda without building it, B, H or K series would be a way better bet than D series.
K series are cool. Have you considered the cost of mounts, ecu, and other things associated with the swap? I went with d series because I had never built a motor before. And I got lucky with the head/crank swap and pistons/rods I bought off a guy. You also don’t have to send the block to the CNC guy...

Also. To loosen a nut: turn it counter clockwise or to the left. Torque specs are bs. If you tighten your hardware until it goes loose then you are solid. I used this method for securing the head to the block.
 

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K swap: Engine is nearly the cheapest part

Shifter, shifter cables, harness, ECU, Mounts, special radiator, special intake manifold, new exhaust............

CSS will make the block as solid as you'll ever need it and it's cheap insurance. OR again: Get a t25 on 6-7 psi max, have bucket loads of fun for a long time and as you get to know what you're doing, then taking the next step to build an engine will be much easier, because you will already understand the basics. I mean you're literally going to gain 100 hp at the wheels. Double the stock power. It will be a noticeable bump!
 
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