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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I bought a 99 civic lx the other day, and the guy was planning on putting on an ebay turbo kit. (Thank god he didn't) but he did start with a few things. First he took the a/c out, but gave me all the components to put back in. Then there's the exhaust, its a 3" exhaust on a now NA d16y7, but I have a magnaflow on the way to replace it.

The question I have pertains to the fuel pump. He installed a walbro 255 fuel pump in the car. He gave me the stock fuel pump with the car. Since im not turboing the car, is it ok to leave the fuel pump in? Right now its running pretty rich, but that could be because it has no cat and the o2 sensor is just hanging their.

Would like to know soon, cause if it could be harmful to my engine I would just much rather put the stock back in
 

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Are you getting an ecu trouble codes mil. Check engine light? It could be just trying to compensate.

The pumps have been known to force a little more fuel through at idle but it can't be that bad.

Some guy was saying that he had to run a different regulator but the stock regulator should be able to handle it.
**EDIT** Most Stock regulators can't handle it. Peoples crap usually gets richer in the low rpm range with the 255.
 

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stock FPR cannot bypass the extra fuel of the Walbro below 2000 rpms.

Either way you bought a hack job, have fun!
 

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if your strapped for cash, pull it and sell it. though it will just be your word that its a 255 and not a 190...

mine didnt seem to have a big issue with a 255 and a NA Y7. but then again, it was only NA for a few weeks before i boosted.. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's probably why my car kinda sputters when I cruise in first and second gear. Its almost like its running out of gas feeling. So I should more than likely put in the stock fuel pump, and fix the exhaust. Which also has an exhaust leak.

Other than that, the car is in great condition. So luckily I can easily fix these things.
 

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^^^^^ +1

So long as you end up with correct fuel pressure the injectors won't know how you got it. They are not that smart.

If pressure spikes over spec at idle, better regulator or smaller pump will fix it.
 

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I'm one of those guys who will say you need an adjustable fpr. Even if you get an AEM or Holley (notice I didn't say B&M) make sure there are interchangeable fuel return orifices that come with it. Bone is more than correct about the stocker not being able to keep up with the flow at idle. My B7 ran rich like cheesecake for forever before I got an adjustable fpr. If you're gonna turbo the thing I'd replace the stocker. Just my opinion.

And you're prolly runnin into problems cause of the O2 hangin like you said.
 

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Just for an FYI, stock fuel pressure should be around 45PSI with the vacuum hose on the FPR. When I ran my stock fuel pump I had around 45PSI, but with the 255 alone I was seeing around 50-52PSI.
 

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As the op stated it already has the 255 in there so instead of taking it out just get an adjustable fpr and call it a day. Oh and just get a different header so the o2 can be plugged in my check engine light was on because my o2 went dead so just plug it in get a fpr and call it a day.
 

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Just for an FYI, stock fuel pressure should be around 45PSI with the vacuum hose on the FPR. When I ran my stock fuel pump I had around 45PSI, but with the 255 alone I was seeing around 50-52PSI.
45psi with the vac hose connected???? Are you sure about that or do you wanna change that? Stock pressure should be 38-42psi with the vacuum hose DIS-connected and pinched off from the fpr.
 

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45psi with the vac hose connected???? Are you sure about that or do you wanna change that? Stock pressure should be 38-42psi with the vacuum hose DIS-connected and pinched off from the fpr.
That's what I was seeing with my fuel pressure gauge unless your saying my gauge was wrong. And this was with the gauge on my fuel filter 24/7 with the car running and the vacuum hose NOT disconnected. Obviously with it disconnected it's going to drop to around what you said 38-42PSI.
 

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That's what I was seeing with my fuel pressure gauge unless your saying my gauge was wrong. And this was with the gauge on my fuel filter 24/7 with the car running and the vacuum hose NOT disconnected. Obviously with it disconnected it's going to drop to around what you said 38-42PSI.
With the vacuum hose off, shouldnt the FP raise?
 

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With the vacuum hose off, shouldnt the FP raise?
No your right, I'm confusing myself here. I retract what I said in earlier posts. Should be around 38-42 with the vac hose dis-connected. So my gauge was wrong, cheap gauges FTL. No excuses, but it has been more then 3 years since I last modded a car so my memory is a bit foggy.
 

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before you suggest, that the pump is the problem you need to address that CEL. if you have an O2 sensor code if the car is OBD1 you shouldnt have a code for it. but if its OBD2 then you will get a code for catalyist effeciency i believe. and the pump shouldnt cause the car to run rich but if need be replace the regulator with an adjustable one and set it to 38 psi at idle with the vacuum line off. but id investigate that CEL ASAP.
 

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Actually, yes his Walbro 255lph WILL cause his car to run rich thanks to the elevated fuel pressures. But this is not to say that his O2 sensor situation isn't the culprit.......which is what I'm leaning towards.

Can we start reading or researching before we post incorrect info??? Twice in one threat is silly folks.

OP, fix your O2 sensor situation and then post back with the results. In for problem solving!!!
 
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