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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello i have a d16z6 vitara turbo whit a walbro 255 on hondata s300 and dsm injector my problem is when i start the engine the presure is at 45 then it drop to 0 in about 15 sec at ilde. i have this prolem since i have change my fuel pump for a inline walbro 255 whit a fuel cell and an6 fuel line and the fuel filter is brand new too. the pump run on direct power from the batery whit a switch and 25amp fuse

now i have a fuel presure regulator so i can see what hapen.
i dont why it does this .is it a restriction problem , vaccum, électronic. i dont now what to doe to fix it -.- thank if you could give some advice about it :)
 

· Retired From Hondas
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Most high performance Hondas require fuel delivery beyond the capacity of the stock fuel system . This necessitates the installation of larger injectors and a high-output aftermarket fuel pump, of the in-tank, or in-line variety.

Unfortunately, in addition to increasing available fuel volume, most of these high-output pumps increase fuel pressure across the range as well. This pressure increase at idle and in the lower rpm ranges can cause the engine to run excessively rich, causing poor mileage, illegal emission levels, premature catalytic converter failure, plug fouling, and generally poor overall performance.

To remedy the problem, it's necessary to reduce the fuel pressure by installing an adjustable-kit such as the B&M on the stock pressure regulator. While this will permit pressure adjustment, many enthusiasts find that they still can't lower idle pressures enough to alleviate their problems.

The orifice (or valve) inside the Honda regulators is so small in diameter that it serves as a restriction to fuel returning to the tank, so no amount of adjustment will drop the pressure.

Our method for solving this problem is to drill a pressure relief hole in the regulator, connecting the inlet area to the exit. This will allow some excess pressure to by-pass the restrictive valve in the regulator.

This is a picture of a Honda fuel pressure regulator with the "top" sawed off for installation of a B&M adjustability kit.

The fuel entry is the orifice surrounded by the "O" ring and the exit is the tube protruding from the bottom of the regulator.



We've found that drilling a hole of approximately .035" diameter will effectively drop pressure to acceptable levels. Small drill bits like this can be purchased through hobby shops, or most good hardware stores. Since bits of this size are frequently smaller than the chucks can grip on most electric drills, the use of a Dremel, or hand-twist vice is recommended.


In this picture, you can see we've removed the "O" ring and drilled the pressure relief hole inside the fuel entry orifice.

Note that the hole we drill is angled toward the exit end of the regulator.


Another picture (with the drill bit in the hole), showing that we start the hole in the lower half of the entry orifice and angle it down toward the exit.

The most difficult part of this modification is the removal of the regulator from the fuel rail. In most instances, performing this operation and installing the adjustable regulator kit should require less than an hour of your time and the results of your efforts will be very satisfying. Your car will thank you.


taken from Endyn's site
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank for the info i think i found the proble its betwen the fuel filter and the end of the fuel rail . The flow of gaz At the exit side for return is very low even if the engine isnt running so i guess the problem is the banjo bolt ( i tried to blow in the fuel rail whit the injector on and there was no restriction ) i will get anoter rail and banjo bolt to see if it can solve my problem
 

· Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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4,414 Posts
Ive used D16A6 and D16A1 FPRs with a walbro 255 and DSM 450's and I've never once had a problem w fuel pressure. Don't understand why that FPR mod would be required with those regulars but I've heard it's needed for Z6 FPRs
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey i finaly found the probleme it was the wheel that hold the banjobolt on the gaz feed section of the fuel rail. to fix my probleme i changed it for another anoter one diferant whit fence in it m old one didnt had fence so the gaz where not able to pass freely! :)
 
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