Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
1989 Civic Wagovan
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've read so many brand suggestions and researched so many that it makes me just want to part the car out, one says X brand is good and the next says it's trash. My setup is a D15b2 in an 89' auto wagon and the only improvement in HP that I entertain is DPFI to MPFI, so say 100hp at most. I'm 40, I grew up with Honda's and I want to enjoy it and have the nostalgia even if the Chevy Spark is passing me.

Suggestions I've researched-read-questioned

Ball Joints
-Auto stores (Autozone, O'riley's, etc.)
-Becky Arnley
-Moog

CV Axles
-Auto stores (Autozone, O'riley's, etc.)
-Insane Shaft
-Gators
-Raxles

I haven't made it to tie-rods or bushings as I'm overloaded with info. I just want an NA slow turtle that is lowered with a finger or so gap and not spending unnecessary money on some Insane Shafts that are rated at 500-100hp. Anybody else out there in the same boat that has a setup that has been reliable please drop a reply. Thanks, and honk when you fly by with your turbo vtec's.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I just rebuilt my entire suspension/brake set up last year. I used SKF bearings/hubs, MOOG upper arms front/rear, and I bought a full HardRace bushing kit, plus their ball joints and tie rods (my new steering rack didn’t come with them). Anywhere it seemed appropriate I used new OEM Honda parts (bolts, nuts, washers, top hats, brake cables, etc). I used APWI axles from RockAuto because they were $31 each and axles are easy to replace. I’d just replace an axle before I repacked a joint and installed a new boot. It’s less work. I’d buy the best bearings you can afford because replacing those is never fun. Some OEM Honda stuff is actually not much more money than aftermarket so buy that if you can (if Honda still makes/stocks it).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,476 Posts
any balljoint is fine to use, the secret is to grab a needle adapter for a grease gun and pump her full, JUST as its about to leak grease. You want it to prevent moisture, and to keep things lubed. Then simply use the needle to pump a little grease every engine oil change.

CV Axles, well, all remans are completely hit or miss. My method is buying the cheapest axles that end up being the correc tlength (generally partsstore remans fit properly) then same concept with the balljoints, grease em with the needle. If you are careful, you can slip under the clamp and squirt and squirt and squirt. When it is over-packed in grease, simply move the joint around by hand to finish purging the grease out. If you just fill with grease, then use the car to drive, it might blow the clamps and cv boots to bits, as grease does not compress!


TLDR: grease joints, buy cheapest that rockauto has available for awesome customer service!
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top