Front end bushings for 1998-2000 ek3 civic
Hi guys, I have been searching the internet for bushings for my ek3 civic but no luck so far. I do not need the control arms only the bushings.
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HardRace.
Can't praise them enough. Daily, track slut, Auto-x, they do it all well, and have shown unmatched, customer support to the end-user.
Can't praise them enough. Daily, track slut, Auto-x, they do it all well, and have shown unmatched, customer support to the end-user.
+1 for HardRace.
Sometimes they run out, and it takes a while for their stuff to be back in stock. However, they do reply quickly in my experience.
Sometimes they run out, and it takes a while for their stuff to be back in stock. However, they do reply quickly in my experience.
For a pure street car with little to slightly less than moderate power upgrades; I will agree with the HardRace assessment. However if the power plant is a bit spicy you might want to look at the spherical rear lower front, with energy suspension poly on all 3 other front locations, a modified rta bushing from energy suspension, with spherical adjustable upper rears and spherical toe adjusters, with energy suspension poly throughout the rest of the rear. If the power plant is outrageous look at a spherical rta rather than a poly with tapered holes drilled in it. This advice is all based upon recent(12 months) experience with 92-00 chassis, with ride quality, linear and lateral traction in mind, different combinations of aforementioned components can yield an entirely different feel and soul to the car, aiming it at different things.
I myself like an all-rounder, currently running 195/50r15 with a progressive -1.25/-1.50" drop spring, ES poly bushings all around,(rta bushing modified with 3 tapered holes) kyb gas-a-just struts, and the street performance is unparalleled, track cars ive built that beat my car by 2.9+ sec per lap at willow springs can't keep up from light to light, let alone sign to sign, which is really where my DD loves to dominate.
I myself like an all-rounder, currently running 195/50r15 with a progressive -1.25/-1.50" drop spring, ES poly bushings all around,(rta bushing modified with 3 tapered holes) kyb gas-a-just struts, and the street performance is unparalleled, track cars ive built that beat my car by 2.9+ sec per lap at willow springs can't keep up from light to light, let alone sign to sign, which is really where my DD loves to dominate.
I'm on the same tire/wheel size and ride height, only with HardRace stuff all around.For a pure street car with little to slightly less than moderate power upgrades; I will agree with the HardRace assessment. However if the power plant is a bit spicy you might want to look at the spherical rear lower front, with energy suspension poly on all 3 other front locations, a modified rta bushing from energy suspension, with spherical adjustable upper rears and spherical toe adjusters, with energy suspension poly throughout the rest of the rear. If the power plant is outrageous look at a spherical rta rather than a poly with tapered holes drilled in it. This advice is all based upon recent(12 months) experience with 92-00 chassis, with ride quality, linear and lateral traction in mind, different combinations of aforementioned components can yield an entirely different feel and soul to the car, aiming it at different things.
I myself like an all-rounder, currently running 195/50r15 with a progressive -1.25/-1.50" drop spring, ES poly bushings all around,(rta bushing modified with 3 tapered holes) kyb gas-a-just struts, and the street performance is unparalleled, track cars ive built that beat my car by 2.9+ sec per lap at willow springs can't keep up from light to light, let alone sign to sign, which is really where my DD loves to dominate.
I tried the Poly. stuff a few years back, and on the street, I simply got too much 'deformation' of the bushings. 20-30k miles down the road, I wasn't happy with the 'oblong' shape the bushing's I.D.(s) became.
Having spherical joints in the mix, might change that some, as well as a track only car. My experience with poly., was near all Street miles.
If they aren't kept properly lubed the life span is severely reduced, my last set lasted not quite 10 years of daily driving and being beat upon regularly before slop showed up and caused wheel hop on moderate launches.
That's what I get for raw-dogging them.If they aren't kept properly lubed the life span is severely reduced, my last set lasted not quite 10 years of daily driving and being beat upon regularly before slop showed up and caused wheel hop on moderate launches.
Like many things in life, lube is essential.
They have to be lubed yearly with Syl-Glyde if the car is a DD. I'd flush the coolant and brakes, oil change and new plugs, typical once a year maint. for an autox/DD car.
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