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Discussion Starter #1
Wasup guys, recently installed my built motor (d16z6, eagle/wiseco, rebuilt z6 head w/ s. t. Springs & retainers, delta 272-2 cam machine work and assembly done at inlinpro) and tuned on monday. Made 325 whp and 247ft lbs on 16 psi. Didnt notice any low oil pressure than, still runs strong but oil pressure gauge is reading low. Idles at about 15psi. 2k rpms raises to 20psi any higher rpm and it doesn't go past 20 psi. Vtec still engages, and low oil pressure light does not come on. Thought it was my mech. Gauge at first because there was oil in face plate and I saw huge bubbles of air in the line going to the oil pressure gauge. Replaced the gauge and tried to bleed out as much air as possible. Went on a test drive same thing... But there's also still huge air gaps in the line. Using a g.e. sandwich plate to feed oil to turbo and gauge. Ported oil pump, no oil retrictor in turbo. Before I drop the oil pan what other things should I look at? Already searched and have a good idea of stuff to look for just want to some more ideas. Thanks in advanced hopefully it could be just a simple fix
 

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Get an electrical oil pressure gauge. You can pick up a Glow Shift or Prosport for $40.

I'm pretty sure your VTEC isn't going to kick in with oil pressure only being at 20 psi. Change your gauge.
 

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do you have a kink in the line?Get an electrical oil pressure gauge..screw the sender in the g.e. sandwich plate..
 

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Get an electrical oil pressure gauge. You can pick up a Glow Shift or Prosport for $40.

I'm pretty sure your VTEC isn't going to kick in with oil pressure only being at 20 psi. Change your gauge.
do you have a kink in the line?Get an electrical oil pressure gauge..screw the sender in the g.e. sandwich plate..
These guys got the right idea. If you have good oil pressure at idle then your pump will turn with the crank so it can only go higher, unless there is a bypass valve in the pump.
Speaking from my pool experience; filter gauges wont read accurately when there is air in the filter because the gauges are meant for liquid not air. It's probably the same concept here, air in the line causing the gauge to misread.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice so far guys! I double checked the lines and see no kinks. I Pulled the gauge out of the pod and routed the line so I could hold the gauge in my hand while I drove around. Oil does not move and air bubbles stay still. When I remove the line completly from the gauge I get oil flow. Going to check the end that goes in to the sandwich plate. If that doesn't work then i'll switch to an electric gauge. Problem is I have no room to mount sending unit on sandwich plate, vent box is in the way. don't they also also have a habit of cracking if I place it directly on the block?
 

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The air in the line is not your problem. Once the air compresses which it does in an instant, it transmits the pressure.

Pascals law applies to all fluids. Fluids can be liquid or gas, ie anything that flows freely.

Pascal's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


A good mechanical gauge is actually better than a good electrical one, but crap is crap no matter what type.

Any gauge is only as good as it's installation and the data it accesses.

Is the point your tapping for pressure seeing full main gallery pressure.

If the gauge is accurate which is unlikely seeing as how vtec is working, your problem is quite likely your oil pressure relief valve.
 

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since you dont have room ion the sandwich adapter you can get the cooper oil line and zip tie the sender to the brake lines or some thing like that..
 

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vtec is the kicker here, no oil pressure no vtec. 20 psi i dont think is enough to engage vtec so id say your gauge is bad or your line might be pinched/ kinked a little. a sandwich plate imho isnt the best place to pick up an accurate reading either
 

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Yeah if you take the pressure readinf post filter that will tell you what oil pressure the motor is actually getting. Because different filters will change the pressure do to resistence
 

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A kinked line will slow gauge response but not reduce final reading. Most gauges actually have a restriction built in where the line screws on. It might have a 1/16" or smaller hole to slow reacion a little so the needle does not flicker to much

If the line was so badly kinked you would get no pressure, or none at idle but maybe 20psi at higher speed ie a pressure drop, not a pressure not a pressure plateau.

It's your gauge or your gauge installation or your pressure relief valve spring. Test the gauge first. Make sure your tapped into full line pressure, not say a turbo bearing line after the restriction.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had this same setup on when the other motor was still installed, it was accurate then.
Yes i did port the oil Pump. I removed the oil pressure release Valve when I was blowing the metal shavings out. It's just a spring and a rod that is attached to the plug right? No small peices that I might have dropped
 

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It's normally a spring and a rod or piston and a device to retain the spring.
 
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