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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering what ratio fmu do I need to go with for boosting around 6-8 psi. Can I get away without chipping my ecu for right now, I'm running a little low on funds but still want to run my car without problems. Also do i need to increase my injector size just to run in the 6 to 8 range? Thanks for any help!
 
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Discussion Starter #2
about 10:1 ratio and set you fuel pressure to about 40 psi with vaccume hose disconnected.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
wow, this question is just inviting disaster again....

from what i was told, you shouldn't go over 6 psi on the stock injectors. you *can* technically go over that, but you are pushing the injectors to the max in their duty cycle.... which means they won't supply your engine the fuel it needs in the higher RPMS and when under boost. what does that mean? a leaning-out condition and detonation.

hey, if thats what you want, cool... if not, go like you were saying to chipped ecu. you can chip your own ECU if you're technically inclined... or if you're not, you can do like i did and buy a pre-chipped one for relatively little in the classifieds here or somewhere else... or you can buy a virgin ECU and pay someone to chip it for you. all of those options should cost under $200....

as for injectors, the popular setup seems to be DSM 450s... they are cheap because they are everywhere, and work fine. to top that off, most people who make maps for uberdata or crome use 450's, so any maps will already be configured for you.

THIS is the situation that i am doing right now... i am going from basic emanage with no other mods to DSM 450's, uberdata or crome on a chipped p28, and i will go from there.

good luck!

EDIT: FYI i asked a similar question and it ignited a war, but gave a lot of information... check it out here:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=23923
 
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Discussion Starter #6
yea i have to agree 6psi maybe 7 with a good aftermarket pump is ok too but no more in my opinion of safty level and margins.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
fmu's are untunable poopie. i would only run them never. they will support 6 psi-ish but the car wont run well at all. and dont forget your fishtank check valves on your map sensor.

now to clear up the chipping topic. anyone who thinks they can turbo their honda can chip their ecu. its very easy. all the diagrams needed for use as a guid are on pgmfi.org. all you need is a cheap soldering gun and some desoldering braid. xenocron on hmt sells complete chipping kits for all your needs, for like 24 bucks. as far a sa basemap goes, there are tons of maps in the bin depository on xenocrons website. they will do just fine until you can have your car tuned, so long as you dont rape the fuck out of it, until there is a wideband on your car to verify the program is compatible with your setup.
 

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Donkey
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FMU for 6-7 psi is fine.

My proposed setup, is a 12:1 Vortech fmu and Bosch motorsport pump, mounted in the engine bay. I plan to run a low boost setting of 5 psi, and 8 maximum, using a TurboSmart Eboost electronic boost controller.

I also have a Pivot A/F controller which i will use to make sure the whole setup wont lean out on 8 psi. I have no worries or bad thoughts about running this setup, and my local tuner has just finnished setting up my buddies NA CA18 S13 with a toyota SC14 supercharger. It runs fine and dandy.

BTW, ditch the Fishtank valves and get hold of a Missing Link. Much cleaner and controls vac-boost transition much better.

have fun boosting on a budget, just dont hit the moon with your boost level and you will be fine bud!!
 
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Discussion Starter #9
ccfab, the problem isn't installing a chip into your ecu, it's "properly tunning" the car where the issue lies. Do you ever suggesting anything but for people to use free crap and chip their ecu w/o any tech support? 75% of all your posts have been involved chipping. just because you don't mind chancing blowing your engine, doesn't mean others feel the same.

Since your still learning, if you chose to decide to go to a standalone system, get a supported product like a hondata, aem, even the e-maange is ok with some of it's options. but please if your starting out, Don't attempt the DIY route unless you just like loosing motors.
 

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Civic turbo Hx/Ex
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You won't loose your motor if you chip the ecu wrong. It will just throw a cel... You load base maps on the 32pin chip, and go from there. Its not hard and there are plenty of people who will help each other out. That's why we have these forums.



I wish you 2 would stop arguing... its starting to agitate me, and a few other mods/admin.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
that's not what i ment. it's tuning is what can damabe the engine. I know of personally 5 motors people have melted on a dyno with incorrect tuning. 1 was actually not their fault. the system goofed during sending the program form the laptop to the ecu and it caused them to think they had 1 progy when it had the stocker still.

Tuning is alwasy what I am concerned about especially for novice users.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
i dont argue at all, i am just followed by this douchebag saying shit about me after every post...
 

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Oscar you are WRONG. Again, WRONG.

If you set up a basemap correctly there is a lower chance of you blowing your engine than running a FMU with no ignition timing control. Oscar, stop commenting on things you know little to nothing about. How a FMU and check valves is safer than opening a free EMS program, inserting a high boost fuel effiency and a conservative ignition retard is unsafe is beyond me.

Ive seen plenty of FMU dynos where the car at the upper rpm range was running lean (ie above 12.5:1). that with 50-60 more whp and no ignition retard=blown engine. Why do you think people can push stock blocks further than ever before?
 

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I have to admit, I thought tuning my car with urberdata or crome was going to be super hard... But it turns out it was just as easy as using a piggyback puter. Plus people are way more then willing to help when you have a problem (thanks Civic4ges, and Bigwig)!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
big it's not the "base" map as a base map is usually the stock maps with slight tweakings. every car engine is differnt and no 2 maps will be the same. some close not not exactly. The issue i see is a novice guy trying to alter it for his car and that's where things can go wrong. YES i've seen the results first hand of a novice tuner listening to guys liek the onels on here talking about tune it yourself.

I'm not saying NOT to go standalone. I'm saying do it right. get a product that is supported and can be professionally tuned. then after it's running, learn from it. that way you know where to put it back to if you get something wrong. trying to do it w/o professional help is well stupid. big, i'm network engineer, how about you put your job on the line and program a san, with no training? install the hba's into the servers, set the switches and connect all fiber. then test and place into production. Think it's easy? sound hard?

my point is while to YOU it's easy, to a novice it's NOT and with the guys here cramming chip it down their throats, it's only telling them, hey put your only transperation on the line for some free stuff instead of spending the extra few hundred and getting it done right by a pro and then learn.

Again, i'm not saying chipping it yourself is bad, I's stating again, telling a novice guy to do it all himself when he doesn;t have any idea what he;s doing and never even seen a base map, but understands thermal dynamics and tempetature control\s to properly tune the cars is not the brightest idea.... Much like having you play with a san system.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
ccfab said:
i dont argue at all, i am just followed by this douchebag saying shit about me after every post...
Don;t flatter yourself, I'm not following you around, I'm reading articles and seeing if I can assist with knowledge of the issue. tend to think the oposite that YIOUR following me. "douchebag"....
 

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I prefer VW Jetta's
 

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Oscar, explain to me how its more dangerous to open Uberdata/Crome, import the stock map for that car's engine, add 135% boost fuel effiency and 1 degree per pound retard, and burn a map vs taking a FMU with a set ratio, putting it on your car with some fish valves to keep the car from seeing boost and ignoring ignition timing totally?

Thats exactly how hard it is to setup a basemap for a given car. I dont see that as something the novice user cant do unless they arent very literate. In that case i would suggest trading in their automobile for a tricycle.
 
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