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Flywheel question

889 Views 25 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  BigTuna
Ok, so I just purchased a new transmission to replace my cx trans. I got the jdm unit (which has the same ratios as the U.S. si unit, right?). Anyway, should I get the stock flywheel milled down to around 12 lbs. or just buy an aftermarket flywheel?
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Nah I guess your right. That's why I specifically asked you I know you know your shit thanks man.
It's true that you better not have to. I got mine for $1 so I had a lot of money left over and had it resurfaced with my brake rotors for free. It can't hurt but it shouldn't be needed.

Personally I don't have as much faith in $1.00 ebay shit as most people. That's why I did it.
if you like more rotation weight on launch why not put heavy rims on and use a heavy flywheel. its the same theory. more weight is applied using more hp to turn the weight there for using more of the power to turn the now heavier wheels and not give you traction problems.
With clutch disengaged and engine reving, the flywheel's mass has stored kinetic energy where as the heavy wheels at rest do not.

Now if you had a heavy flywheel and heavy wheels, car in gear and engine tached out, then kicked it off the jackstands, the heavy wheels would help since they's have stored energy. But they would ONLY help if you had the traction to hook up all that energy.
thank you . =) but where is the line of sacrifice
for .002(just a random number) of a second saved in traction could it be made up for with better acceleration and reduced rotation weight? or weight in total.,granted 14lbs isnt gonna be a half second. but on the right set up. wouldnt it be better to have a light flywheel, and what about from a roll?. any advantages?
from a roll depends also.......if your in gear and not downshifting, lighter is better.

If your down shifting and have the extra .1 second to let the rpms climb before before dumping the clutch, you'll slingshot ahead.....

My D15B7 12 lb. vs. 18 lb. was .15 seconds difference in the 1/4 mile, all of it was in the first 60 feet. 18 lb. was faster.

But look at the times I posted from 8/2005, I was about the same with more HP, smaller slicks, and the 12 lb. light flywheel. You have to get the sled moving first, that is the biggest balance of power and traction.

Now once the car is moving, the lighter should be faster, but that depends on the driver.

Now road racing, WHOLE different ball game, lighter is better, esp. so you don't shock the driveline on downshifts under threshold braking.
ahhh. i see
Too many people worry about Mph in racing, racing is won and lost at the 60'. If i cranked the tire pressure up on my slicks or ran street tires I could pick up 2mph, but would lose .3 to .5 off of my ET. A good ET and low mph is a sign that the car is hooking. For allmotor cars we use a simple ratio to figure out if the 60's is acceptable.

1320 divided by MPH equals ET guestimate
My car
1320/98.1= 13.45 I ran 13.51 which is .006 slower, anything under .01 in fwd is good.
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