[transzex]

it's not had to balace a cut down stocker......just takes time.

Time is money, by the time you add in the labor, it'll be about the same price as a 12 lb aftermearket unit. My cost $175 to be cut and balanced.

 

[transzex]

Okay Transzex or Carby I have a question since we are kinda on the subject of what I want to ask. If I buy a new Pro-Lite flywheel maybe say 8 lbs, don't I need to get it "surfaced"? You know so it will "bite" better?

fucking better not have too!!!!!!

Do you resurface your new rotors before they are installed?

 

[transzex]

idk. 7 lb fidanza on a d15b vtec turbo 5.5 psi or so for now.(boost creep) but soon to be 14. with 7.5k rpm shifts i never fall out of vtec. and launching is fine. doesnt bog for me.

You've never launched hard then have you????

Slap on some sticky slicks and launch from redline......car noses over when the rpms are dragged down by too light of a flywheel, sometimes enough to really mess up a low psi turbo car, flat on it's face!!!!!

It is a balance of traction vs. power. You got HP and having traction issues, then go light. 190-200 whp launching at 7500 rpms with a 12 lb flywheel was about perfect, esp. using nitrous.

It's part of the tuning equation AND driver's style plus how the race will be abused, I mean raced.

I do know that my 12 lb is a bit too light for DD with 3.722 FD, so when the Y7 tranny goes in, so does the 15 lb CX flywheel.

 

[transzex]

if you like more rotation weight on launch why not put heavy rims on and use a heavy flywheel. its the same theory. more weight is applied using more hp to turn the weight there for using more of the power to turn the now heavier wheels and not give you traction problems.

With clutch disengaged and engine reving, the flywheel's mass has stored kinetic energy where as the heavy wheels at rest do not.

Now if you had a heavy flywheel and heavy wheels, car in gear and engine tached out, then kicked it off the jackstands, the heavy wheels would help since they's have stored energy. But they would ONLY help if you had the traction to hook up all that energy.

 

[transzex]

from a roll depends also.......if your in gear and not downshifting, lighter is better.

If your down shifting and have the extra .1 second to let the rpms climb before before dumping the clutch, you'll slingshot ahead.....

My D15B7 12 lb. vs. 18 lb. was .15 seconds difference in the 1/4 mile, all of it was in the first 60 feet. 18 lb. was faster.

But look at the times I posted from 8/2005, I was about the same with more HP, smaller slicks, and the 12 lb. light flywheel. You have to get the sled moving first, that is the biggest balance of power and traction.

Now once the car is moving, the lighter should be faster, but that depends on the driver.

Now road racing, WHOLE different ball game, lighter is better, esp. so you don't shock the driveline on downshifts under threshold braking.