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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
i love the dual valve springs that come stock in these heads



and the big ol' ports



one of the only photos in actions









then i started work on the block to take the head and block to get washed at the same time

pretty much just working on the oil pump and the couple of holes for the b/s delete




 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
i took everything to heads unlimited

head to be milled flat and washed

wash the block

they got it back to me within 5 hours and i think the total was 70$ ( with a bit of a friend deal)









i started assembly with putting new valve seal in it










and i wrapped it all up to wait for the block to be assembled
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·


bearings in place on the block



plastigauge was all in spec between .0015 and .002 for the mains

for the rods they where all basically at .002 or slightly under

getting the pistons in



i did check ring gap and it was all in spec

everything buttoned up



and the head on the block



and all intime


next i started work on wiring and making axles

the snout length difference between the b series axle and the f series



installing a 255 lph pump from xenocron

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
and this is one of the huge PITA things i did but overall it did work out very well

while hanging out with my friend who recently did a vr6 swap into a mk2 golf i noticed the nice big circular connector with about 10 ish more connections than the 3 plugs put together on the passenger side of the engine bay.

this worked out perfect because it had a couple really nice big connectors that i used for my fuel pump and it gave me the extra spots i needed to run the vetc solinoid and iab along with a couple other goodies.

while doing all this i did a bit of a wire tuck aswell integrated a resistor box into the harness and deleted as many plugs as possible.

the only issue i had when doing this was there are 3 or 4 plaine white wires that go through the plugs on passenger side, you have to be very careful not to mix up the cps and the map signal wires :p



relay for the fuel pump to run straight from the batery/ alternator to the pump



the engine all wrapped up ready to go



no picture of removing the engine but it was very painless

the f series transmission in there

 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
and the engine is in !



it took a while to figure out the mounts it is still sitting a little strange but doing all right



clearence to the rad





the new spec stage 3 kevlar clutch and fidanza akuminum flywheel



peaking through



and i didn't even have to bleed my cltch! using the stock d series slave gave me a little more fan clearance but i still needed to get creative



the h/f series transmission have a different bolt spacing so all that was needed was ovalling one whole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
for a fan i found out that a prelude secondary fan ( driverside ) is a fair bit thinnre than the oem one. now i havn't done an ready to see how these compair but i gave it good test with my hand and the slimer one seemed to put out the same force of air over a larger area if that makes sense( read skinnier and flows more ).

and this is pretty much the finished product



she started up and ran as soon as i got my little wire mishap figured out.

i absolutely love the torque this thing has, there is so much for a small little car it has tremendous dig. no more downshiftng needed for hills :)

all in all i am super happy with it and think it is worth it a million times over,

maybe in a couple moths there will be another big update inculding some boost ;)

and i will try to get ripper vid sometime this weekend. still being pretty easy on it with clutch break in and the basemap on it now
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
There's so much more into this build than you told me in person haha, And you still left some things out. Man you need to boost it with that tiney turbo you have asap!! Haha
Its hard to remember everything that I did. It seems like so long ago when I first was tearing apart the engine.

Haha I really want to I've got quite a few smaller thing to do first though :p





Thanks man


repp'd! nice job!

If it were me, I wouldve cleaned the block and painted it for a cleaner look.
Yeah k was thinking of doing that but when testing fitting the engine I decided just to leave it in there. Now that its all buttoned up and doesn't leak I may pull it again change the mounts a bit and paint the engine and tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Like what? Haha you've got half the stuff in for it already!!
Lol cover up the big hole that's undery shifter box now

Make a shift nob

Clean up the waiting and loom the harness maybe covert back to external coil and use the mad coil

And I still need to clean up the fuel.map a bit.

I think I want to set up a 3" exhaust with my fancy cut out before I put the turbo on as well.

And I still need to rebuild the Turbo and get it balanced.
 

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Another F on DSO! Plateless F2B would have made it all that much more sexy, but it looks great none the less. 300whp should be easy as helll to get, and will spool that turbo fast. It seems the hardest part about a turbo f-series bottom end is getting it to blow up!

I'm curious about a few things. What do the 2 head plugs look like - are they pressed in or do they have o-rings? F23 headgasket? What throttle cable & can you get a close-up/explanation of the bracket modding on the plenum? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Another F on DSO! Plateless F2B would have made it all that much more sexy, but it looks great none the less. 300whp should be easy as helll to get, and will spool that turbo fast. It seems the hardest part about a turbo f-series bottom end is getting it to blow up!

I'm curious about a few things. What do the 2 head plugs look like - are they pressed in or do they have o-rings? F23 headgasket? What throttle cable & can you get a close-up/explanation of the bracket modding on the plenum? Thanks!
yeah man! big block power :p

i was seriously considering the plateless f2b but i am seriously impresed by the stock f23a1 transmission.

the two plugs in the head are pressed in with a bit of loctight.

they were about 1.125" long and .002" bigger than the hole they needed to plug. after cooling them to freezer temp and with the locktight as a lubricant they barely needed any force to go in.


for the throttle cable i cut off the stock h22 one so that it was just a flat plate with the 2 holes in it.

i had a spare d15 one around so i cut that one up and wielded it on in what seemed like a good position. so far so good!








update for today

made my self a shift nob on the lathe out of steel.





and tucked some wires

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
knob turned out nice, what happened to using brass like you said?
lol i couldnt find the piece that i wanted to make it out of. i still need to round that one off a bit then i might get fancy and do some bronze inlay.
 

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+rep! Looks sick man!

I've ALWAYS wanted to do an H/F swap, but once I found out you have to chop up the shifter area for the new H/F linkage, I was out. Maybe if I ever get a second car to mess with...lol
 
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