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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so I got my car running swell for a few days and put this ricer hood on it with like 6 scoops that drain onto the motor in some spots... One spot is slightly on the distributor... Been raining a lot here in upstate New York


One day I started the car up and the RPM wouldn't move at all on the cluster...

Had a CEL for IACV but that was because it was crazy dirty and I cleaned it and my erratic idle went away and so did the CEL...

Still the RPM gauge doesn't move...

Friend told me to test AC Voltage at the Blue RPM Signal wire at the driverside shock tower...

Went to start the car and No Spark..No Start...

SMH... I don't want to replaced the entire distributor... how can I test the ignitor or coil???

only means of test equipment I have are a Test Light Probe and Multimeter
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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make sure no moisture inside the cap and make sure nothing shorted out....and pics of said hood
 

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Discussion Starter #5
make sure no moisture inside the cap and make sure nothing shorted out....and pics of said hood
The car 1994 GSR


The hood - aerogear predator hood from my ricer days


I checked spark at the wires with a screwdriver; nothing so I'm taking the cap off


Checked for spark at the coil from here; Nothing.


So I took off the Rotor & Dust cover and the wires going to the ICM look greasy


Tested the (-) side of the coil with key "ON" test light lights up and blinks when I crank it... So... ignitor is firing power to the coil?


I don't know wth I'm doing this is why I always buy a whole distrubtor lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hmm.. I got power at both the positive and negative of the coil just like the guy in that HT thread.

I'm thinking the coil is bad

I will have to test it for resistance

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Koeo, you should see +12v on both primary legs of the coil. If you don't, then the coil has an open condition.

You can unscrew the electrical connections to the primary and ohm the coil properly (proper test via fsm)

Greasy connectors on the icm are common amd don't affect its operation.
 

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I suspect ignitor, because your tach isnt working, and i believe that signal comes from the ignitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
since my tach wasn't working I also went back to suspecting the Ignitor

so i scored a coil & ignitor for free today



decided to try swapping the ignitor first



the new on left and old on the right. notice the crack on the old one above the E12-303



put everything back together and car starts and RPM gauge works now

 

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Discussion Starter #12
so the car started that night and i turned it right off and went inside...

next day no start again...

I tested the resistance of the coil and it was in spec...

I think I burned the ignitor out again... because of this..

D16Z6 guts installed in D16Y7 Housing in VTEC form...

details from this thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/70869-dizzy-distributor-td41u-vs-td42u-non-vtec-vs-vtec-myth-busted.html






180° degrees off.... smh thats what probably made my old motor jump cam timing...
 
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