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Discussion Starter #1
ok here is my first d build and i have a few plans on what i want to do to the car first ill give you my specs and then i would like some feed back to know if what i am doing is going to be ideal.


first is the motor its a d15b7 bottom end all stock with a z6 stock top end with i/h/e.

my plans:

the head
p&p
3 angle valve job
1 up over sized on intake valves
bisi valve train including cam 2.4
venom/sk2/obx/or golden eagle intake mani
70mm throttle body
hondata thermo gaskets
venom fuel rail and fpr
venom 660 cc injectors
pulse star plugs
nology hotwires
msd coil

block
bore over to 75.5 or possibly 76mm
cp 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 forged pistons
eagle h beam rods
kms block guard
polished and balanced crank
shimed oil pump for higher pressure
light weight crank pully
12lb light weight flywheel
stage 3 clutch
stage 2 axels

turbo
t3/t4 turbo on 19-25lbs
stainless ram horn style turbo mani
2 1/2-3" ehaust stright piped

all hoses will be with earls piping and all hardware will be arp
some of these things i am unsure on hince the - any possitve feed back will be apprecatied
 

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95 and 96 civic EX
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Always cool to see somebody else from GA on the site. What kind of numbers are you looking to put down? For the most part looks like a good build list but maybe a few things you won't need depending on where you want to go with it? street or drag?
 

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what trim turbo? stock sleeves? not @ 76mm with decent boost IMO
is this a daily driver or just a race whip?

if youre set on spending some $, which it seems you are, you might as well start with a nice resleeve so you can take advantage of the rest of those pricey parts.

ditch the blockguard
ditch the lightweight crank pulley, go oem...
msd coil might also be overkill unless you need a new one to begin with
 

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Discussion Starter #4
power goals are 330-375hp, i will have a boost controller on board and as a dd be boosting around 12psi, the sleeves are stock and was going to atleast going 75.5mm and the turbo is 57 trim, .60/.63
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
95 Del Sol Si
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block guards are known to fuck up the bores roundness if not installed correctly, they also dont allow the bores to expand/shrink when need which can cause exactly what there supposed to prevent which is cracking a cylinder, dont go over 75.5mm bore you need as much wall as you can and i shot for the 8.5:1 cr not the 9, aftermarket pulleys dont have harmonic dampners and can also be un balanced.
 

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block guards are known to fuck up the bores roundness if not installed correctly
a BG will NEVER fuck up a bore when installed correctly.. cause the final step in installing one is to hone the cylinder. thus correcting any imperfections in the bore. send a bare block with good bores to the machine shop, then install a BG correctly, the block will then return with good bores. :lol:

they also dont allow the bores to expand/shrink
depends on material....

dont go over 75.5mm bore you need as much wall as you can
even with at stock mm the walls are thin. :lol:

for my last d build i was at 75.5 and 9:1 cr. when out of boost, it acted just like any other y7. in boost, it held a great curve and good power on low cfm (at pressure) numbers. imo, a 9:1 cr turbo build is perfect for the DD/track car. if it was just a track car, i would use a much lower cr and crank on the engine hard. as it was, i was very soft on my build.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok I understand the block guard but the oem crank pulley doesnt seem to be dampend and as long as im balancing the bottom end I was going to balance the pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok block guard good as long as done right, how much psi on your 9:1 build and what kind of power did you have
 

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D15 pulleys are balanced though..... aftermarket pulleys are cut and sent out.

d15 rods net a better r/s

psi is "irrelevant", as you dont have my turbo.. flea bay 57 trim @ 18 psi laying 280 whp, very conservative tune.... no, i am not giving you my timing map numbers. so dont ask.
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
95 Del Sol Si
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a BG will NEVER fuck up a bore when installed correctly.. cause the final step in installing one is to hone the cylinder. thus correcting any imperfections in the bore. send a bare block with good bores to the machine shop, then install a BG correctly, the block will then return with good bores. :lol:

depends on material....

even with at stock mm the walls are thin. :lol:

for my last d build i was at 75.5 and 9:1 cr. when out of boost, it acted just like any other y7. in boost, it held a great curve and good power on low cfm (at pressure) numbers. imo, a 9:1 cr turbo build is perfect for the DD/track car. if it was just a track car, i would use a much lower cr and crank on the engine hard. as it was, i was very soft on my build.
you always hate on what i say, everyone knows engines knows a block guard should be align honed when installed. Stock walls are thin so might as well leave as much as possible, my build is shooting for a 350hp 8.5:1 with 75mm dailly driver, gona experiment with meth injection as well. The build depends on the person.
 

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you always hate on what i say, everyone knows engines knows a block guard should be align honed when installed.
additional info and hating are two different things. but in this case, i was only further explaining. which given the OPs current level of knowledge, is warranted.... and no, not every one knows that. why? cause people keep hating on them. i used several from GE and none of them have failed me or the people that purchased my old build engines.

Stock walls are thin so might as well leave as much as possible
i agreed and noted that even stock the walls are thin. again, no hate, just a comment.

OFF TOPIC:
you always hate on what i say
try not to think everyone is after you. though, i know where your comment actually came from... and i was correct in correcting you in that thread. your example was poor and gives insight into your LACK of experiance and knowledge on that subject. if you have an issue with what was said by myself or others, a PM or profile comment will suffice.
 

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You should most definitely not use a lightweight pulley for a few reasons, but the most important is that it can actually cause damage to your engine.

There is a really big article written on it somewhere, I just can't seem to find it at the moment, so I'll give you the short version.

Those lightweight pulleys are solid and they offer no dampening. Your stock one does, and you can see the dampening material on the pulley if you look at it.

There are extremely high forces caused by mechanical resonance and other complicated things that are happening in your engine, and that material helps absorb them and protect your crankshaft.

Some people run them with no problem. Some people break crankshafts. It may be less common in the D community, but it happens with DSM's, Ford's, Chevy's, etc.

So basically, don't waste your money on something that would not only give you very little benefit, but could also result in catastrophic failure.
 

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Also, I don't have first hand experience, but I have heard a lot of bad things about venom injectors. Like they come from the factory and don't flow what they are supposed to.

Do some searches. I think this happened to Danz?
 

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I personally would stay stock bore and 9:1. My build is underway right now and I am running a block guard as well. Only thing you have to remember is if it is done right, it will work and do its job. Also, if you can, I would go d16 bottom end. So much cheape rin the long run and that leaves money for you to do something else worth while. The r/s ratio difference from d15 to d16 isn't worth spending the extra money imo.
 

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Eagle does not make usdm d15 rods...you do have a couple choices either wait for fj to get done, wait for rc to get more from the guy in hunngry or spend 800+ on a set of pauder or crower.... other option would be sourcing out a jdm d15b crank and you can run either fj cust d15b ibeams or any d16 rod
 

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You should most definitely not use a lightweight pulley for a few reasons, but the most important is that it can actually cause damage to your engine.

There is a really big article written on it somewhere, I just can't seem to find it at the moment, so I'll give you the short version.

Those lightweight pulleys are solid and they offer no dampening. Your stock one does, and you can see the dampening material on the pulley if you look at it.

There are extremely high forces caused by mechanical resonance and other complicated things that are happening in your engine, and that material helps absorb them and protect your crankshaft.

Some people run them with no problem. Some people break crankshafts. It may be less common in the D community, but it happens with DSM's, Ford's, Chevy's, etc.

So basically, don't waste your money on something that would not only give you very little benefit, but could also result in catastrophic failure.
D15 does not have a harmonic balancer. It's just a steel pulley so, the light weight pulley is fine. The d16 has the harmonic balancer.
 
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