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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

this is my first post and first time join a Honda page dedicated to D series. So I am going to posting daily updates about my D16Z6 Turbo build. Also if you have any information for this build or have any advice please drop a comment.

most of the parts is coming from the USA and I’m from the UK shipping and import fees is taking its toll on the build 🥲

So let’s get on this it, first of all the car civicis starting off as an facelift EJ9 2000 1.4 OBD2b and being swapped for a D16Z6 OBD1 from a 92 EG ESI. I can use my current loom which is OBD2b and use a Jumper Harness to the P28 OBD1 ECU from the EG, this will allow me to use the auxiliaries from the D14.

I can use all my auxiliaries from the D14 such as gearbox, shafts, hubs, mounts, are also all straight swap. I am considering using the lsd box from a d15b jdm del sol. As for the injectors d14s run at 190cc and d16z6 run at 240cc so I’ve bought 240cc injectors for the D16Y8 inlet and mated it the B16A2 Throttlebody (better gains using Y8 as the runners are bigger than the Z6).

As for the Distributor I will need to use the original OBD1 plugged dizzy as the d16z6 timing is set up differently; So I have a OBD1 to OBd2b jumper harness to use the dizzy with my engine loom.

The EJ9 OBD2b loom isn’t vtec so I have an OBD1 vtec loom I can strip apart. This will allow me to take the vtec plug and wire that up to the correct pin position of the P28 Jumper harness. I also need to rewire the IACV as mine is 2 pin and the Original is 3 pin so I will have to re pin that 3rd wire to the P28.

Engine Build:
Brian Crower Springs BC1070 ✅
Ferrea 6000 competition Intake Valves ✅
Ferrea 6000 competition Exhuast Valves ✅
AEM Adjustable Cam Gear ❌
Inlet/exhuast valve Stem seals ✅
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold ✅
Oem D16 Valve Retainers ✅
Speedfactory Savage street Stage 2 cam✅
Skunk2 Intake Manifold tick✅
Speed Racing Long Rods ❌
ACL Racing Oil Pump ❌
YCP Vitara 75.5mm Pistons ❌
Block Guard ❌
Cylinder/Block Guard ❌
Lightened Fly Wheel ❌
D15B LSD Gearbox ❌

D16 Swap:
D16Z6 Engine ✅
ECU Jumper Harness ✅
Distributor OBD1✅
OBD1 Loom ✅
Dizzy jumper harness ✅
P28 ECU Chipped/Socketed❌
P28 ECU Chipped/Socketed❌

I haven’t actually come to the turbo set up yet but I’ve had a lot of advice from experienced d series engine builders from the UK of where to start.
137254
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Updated: 02/11/2020

I have decided to use the z6 crank undead of a y8 crank. This is due to the z6 having two oil ports per bearing and the y8 having just one port each bearing.

this will be more efficient; whilst having an updated ACL orbital racing oil pump for the higher RPMs.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Just a thought:

Engine Build:
Brian Crower Springs BC1070 ✅
Oem D16 Valve Retainers ✅
You upgraded pretty much the entire valvetrain but want to keep stock retainers?

I was in this boat as well, I bought BC1070's as a cheap upgraded spring, in hopes I could reuse my stock retainers.

After trying to compress the 1070's, I decided against it haha. The stock retainers are very thin in comparison. I also went ahead and purchased some new keepers (Supertech), because the stock ones didn't fit the new retainers very well. They sank lower in the retainer keeper cavity than the replacement ones did.

You can buy the complimentary steel retainer set for those springs, BC 2070s (s is for steel, remove the s for the titanium part number) I would highly recommend doing so. They also keep the valve spring centered with the retainer MUCH better than the OEM ones do, the stock ones allow a considerable amount of side to side movement.

Also grab keepers/locks while your at it. It will let you sleep better.

A side by side comparison of the 1070 matching retainer vs the OEM ones:










BC spring and retainer left, Stock spring and retainer right:




Retainers switched to see comparison. Stock retainer on BC spring has even less of a footprint over the spring compared to the BC retainer. Coupled with the Stock retainer side to side movement, I couldn't picture stressing the stock retainers like that AND sleep well at night:







Screw Auto part Metal Cylinder Steel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just a thought:



You upgraded pretty much the entire valvetrain but want to keep stock retainers?

I was in this boat as well, I bought BC1070's as a cheap upgraded spring, in hopes I could reuse my stock retainers.

After trying to compress the 1070's, I decided against it haha. The stock retainers are very thin in comparison. I also went ahead and purchased some new keepers (Supertech), because the stock ones didn't fit the new retainers very well. They sank lower in the retainer keeper cavity than the replacement ones did.

You can buy the complimentary steel retainer set for those springs, BC 2070s (s is for steel, remove the s for the titanium part number) I would highly recommend doing so. They also keep the valve spring centered with the retainer MUCH better than the OEM ones do, the stock ones allow a considerable amount of side to side movement.

Also grab keepers/locks while your at it. It will let you sleep better.

A side by side comparison of the 1070 matching retainer vs the OEM ones:










BC spring and retainer left, Stock spring and retainer right:




Retainers switched to see comparison. Stock retainer on BC spring has even less of a footprint over the spring compared to the BC retainer. Coupled with the Stock retainer side to side movement, I couldn't picture stressing the stock retainers like that AND sleep well at night:







View attachment 137255
Thank you so much for the detailed post about the valve train, I was going to get the uprated retainers but was told the Oem ones are much better than most would like to think so I was going to keep them.

after your post I think I will upgrade them! Thank you
 
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