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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone!

Got some gears going in an old case! Looking for some things and thought you could help!

Cable
3.25
1.944 ;)
1.565 China-spec
1.259 -1mm on a belt sander
0.878
4.25
2-3 Carbon Synchro


Friction Dampers were roasted. Baked on. Need new ones! Bone.. Someone? Are they available?

And Synchrotech has lost their mind on rebuild kit pricing. 350$ with brass synchros?

So I'm looking at eBay NTN bearings, and seals. I figure they should be alright, but I need some 1,4,5 synchros as well! But I don't know what's good and bad there.

It's just for a DD. I'm trying to be as cheap as possible without costing me in the long run. And remind me what's unique I'm l3 kit wise vs an s20. Would like to order soon and get this pos knocked out.

Let's hear your suggestions!!

Thanks everyone
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,312 Posts
Which version of the dampers you need? Newer one can be modified to fit. Got tangs?

For the carbon's, Synchrotech or Gearspeed...

I have tried "other" sources for synchros (Acerl) and went right back to OEM.

Go cheap and pay the rebuilder twice, then not so cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't mind running regular synchros, even used. 1/4/5 are least used and stressed. Just need those 3

You got any new brass spares? I don't care about rebuilding it more than once. Don't think I'll need to though.

This car is a bit of a pile honestly, I jump it and blast through mud puddles.


Not sure on the friction dampers I forgot to look. Already threw the 1st gear one away. The 2nd is stuck on the collar still. I'll look at home.

Also anyone wanna donate a 3.0? First? Haha I don't need one, but if someone has one for a good price lying around. I'll take it.

Are the L3 and S20 the same as far as rebuild parts. Bearings seals and synchros?

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Double post cause I can't figure out how to edit on phone.

CS gear got cut to 33.80-90mm instead of the 35.40-1.0 = 34.40

Any foreseeable issues with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hahahah! Dan ILY. Always an inspiration to me. I speak of you to my friends like a Legend.

I was just thinking, "lol Woops"

I figure it's located by the shaft splines which has a lot less backlash than the gears themselves.

I already cut the wrong side if I wanted to be "right". You would cut the 1mm off the ass end of the gear and cut new oiling slots. This would allow engagements to be roughly the same as they were. Rather than losing 1mm in the flip and then another mm milling. I believe you mentioned this years ago, and I wholeheartedly agree that's the right way to do it. Leave the collar alone!

By doing this I've lost 2mm of gear engagement on 4th and .5mm in 5th/CS nut. The angle and shaft spacing should be the same though, and 4/5 rarely never break so. I think I'll be alright.

I figure this .5mm should be picked up by the CS nut, but will lower the snap ring groove the same amount and make it a little bitch to lock closed. Like my CR box (the 3.0? 1st in a hydro, with the 1mm shim will be .5mm short

Anyway. Just wanted to go over it with you guys. Hoped to hear more from the people that live here. Haven't heard much in a while and I end up talking to myself here.

Lmk if anyone has some 1/45 synchros to spare for this jallopy. I'll put up a WtB if you're gonna really jerk my chain, hahah

Thoughts welcome,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
.. Make that 2.5, lost on 4th. But anyway.



Also need to rebuild an S40 for little brother. Need some cheap brass synchro recommendations please. Stock rebuild. Might just reuse if decent, were worn out in my l3 I found
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well that one went the other way!! And it's at the shaft! My problem lies at the actual a driving teeth being off a lil bit.

I don't think I'll break it. I "fuck her gently" so to speak. I bet he also had a shorter FD, on-and-off it a lot lashing the crap out of it.

I've always had a problem with these slightly modified stacks getting the cases to close. Slamming it on the back doesn't work. Generally end up closing the case and putting it in the car. With the snap ring compressed but not seated and rocking the car in gear to seat it. Weird but works. Just did it again.

Thanks for the pic. That is very cool. Kinda ate my words but that looks way worse than what I'm doing. Haha!! Interested what really happened..



It looks like he forgot to cut his gear.. And used a hydro 1st on a cable CS.. Or something.

I just looked at the 2nd damper. No tangs. 4 grooves. So that's what I'll need.
 
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