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Discussion Starter #1
So I began to build my intake manifold for my D15B4 today. Should hopefully get more if not all of it completed tomorrow.

Stopped into a local exhaust shop and grabbed some cut offs.
A piece of 1.75" pipe which he so kindly reduced the ends down for me so they fit into the rubber flange on the cast manifold that the carbs used to sit.
A piece of 3" for the plenum.
And two pipe fittings that I will cut and put of the lathe to make the injector bosses.


This is the reduced end of the 1.75" pipe. Not very good job, but hey it was free so no complaints from me.


I measured up how long I think I could get the runners to be. I cut them down and test fitted them to see how it would go.


Now with the plenum also


All looks good for now.
I have the plenum marked up for hole saw tomorrow so I can get the runners trimmed to fit and welded in.
I have the steel plate marked up for the plenum end cap and the throttle body mount.


I just need to get onto the injector bosses.

This is the nissan CA18 throttle body I am using. It needs a bit of a clean.


Anyways. Calling it a day and will get back to it tomorrow.
 

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Interesting.so were there any calculations made or is this more off the cuff? Looks cool but I'd at least make horns on the inside in order for the air to flow more efficiently. In for results.

Also make the bore in the flange for the TB a little larger than the TB itself. Oh and how many injectors? Saw that this was a carbed unit so I'm just super curious how this is gonna work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah so there were some calcs made. I estimated that there was roughly 40-50 cubic inch inside the cast manifold. I wanted my runners to be as long as possible so they ended up being 5 inches long leaving me with 96 cubic inch in the runners. The ideal size of a plenum is twice the volume of the runners (so I have read) so I was targeting a plenum in the 280-300 cube range. So plenum around the 10-10.5 inch long range would leave me with that volume.

There will be four injectors. They will be running in a primary secondary type manner. An injector down the runner and one higher up the runner. I didn't want to drill the stock cast mani.

This car is only a hack and not driven on the street. Plan is to make this as quick as possible with the most minimal of cash. The fuel management will be run from my own designed and built ecu. Just waiting for new PCB's to arrive. Old revision had some flaws.
 

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Wouldn't it have been easier & cheaper to put $25 (or less) into a cast mpfi manifold? I also can't see a modded carb manifold with 2 plenums and 6 total runners flowing anything close to any of the mpfi d-series manifolds. Then you could use a d-series throttle body as well, which can be had complete with MAP & TPS for under $25.

I'd just think it easier to test an EMS on a manifold known to work well w/o quirks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wouldn't it have been easier & cheaper to put $25 (or less) into a cast mpfi manifold? I also can't see a modded carb manifold with 2 plenums and 6 total runners flowing anything close to any of the mpfi d-series manifolds. Then you could use a d-series throttle body as well, which can be had complete with MAP & TPS for under $25.

I'd just think it easier to test an EMS on a manifold known to work well w/o quirks.
Yes buying it would of been heaps easier and potentially cheaper.

This car is never going to be driven on the street. It is a complete junk yard spec car, which ideally will be the laughing stock of the drag strip once again running.

This is more for my zen time being away from the world and work. Buying a part and installing takes little time. Building on the other hand could take forever, changing, revising the build.

Never planned on it to flow more than a stock manifold no doubt it will not flow half as good but again not the point.

I was contemplating building a complete mani but our cnc plasma cutter crapped itself so wasn't too keen to cut the flange by hand. Then the carb replacement was born.

Testing a new revision EMS would have been much better on a known part however again, making adjustments for it to work is more fun.

If it don't work out then I have lost nothing, just some time and $$ relaxing.
If it does then I win a personal bet with my best mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Progress... The carb replacement mani is welded and ready to go.

All that is left if some fuel line and need to weld in studs for the injectors to bolt down.





Rev 2 pcb's turned up yesterday also, so will be getting into populating them. And already due to not checking my design will need to have rev3. Capacitors are the wrong package. Rev1 had through hole caps, and swapping over I never checked what package i placed in eagle. :( not to worry it will still work.
 

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Progress... The carb replacement mani is welded and ready to go.

All that is left if some fuel line and need to weld in studs for the injectors to bolt down.





Rev 2 pcb's turned up yesterday also, so will be getting into populating them. And already due to not checking my design will need to have rev3. Capacitors are the wrong package. Rev1 had through hole caps, and swapping over I never checked what package i placed in eagle. :( not to worry it will still work.
Dude thats pretty awesome for a DIY. Are you doing this for shits and giggles? Trying something different? Working with what you got?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
4 sale or what
The mani or the pcb? Neither are good enough for sale for any one living to far away they cant slashing my tyres when they break. But I highly doubt they will break.

Dude thats pretty awesome for a DIY. Are you doing this for shits and giggles? Trying something different? Working with what you got?
Cheers bud. Pretty much shits and giggles. And for some nice zen time.

Here in Australia there was a competition a while ago which some people still try and achieve. 13s 1/4 for $1300AUD total. My mate said I won't make it run 15's for that. pfft

So far this build has cost:
$0 - car from paddock (was my brothers)
$0 - injectors, tb, and fuel rail from nissan exa in paddock
$0 - stripped and exhaust removed
$10 - pipe from exhaust shop
$6 - nipples for the injector bosses
$20 - PCB's
$15 - electronics components

$51 - total

Before I took the carbs off it ran a 17.5 stripped. Already an improvement from a 23ish when i took it out of the paddock.

Plan is to get this IM back on and running, then ebay spec $200 turbo, meth injection and at least two 1/4 passes of faster than 15.9 before blowing up.
 

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The mani or the pcb? Neither are good enough for sale for any one living to far away they cant slashing my tyres when they break. But I highly doubt they will break.



Cheers bud. Pretty much shits and giggles. And for some nice zen time.

Here in Australia there was a competition a while ago which some people still try and achieve. 13s 1/4 for $1300AUD total. My mate said I won't make it run 15's for that. pfft

So far this build has cost:
$0 - car from paddock (was my brothers)
$0 - injectors, tb, and fuel rail from nissan exa in paddock
$0 - stripped and exhaust removed
$10 - pipe from exhaust shop
$6 - nipples for the injector bosses
$20 - PCB's
$15 - electronics components

$51 - total

Before I took the carbs off it ran a 17.5 stripped. Already an improvement from a 23ish when i took it out of the paddock.

Plan is to get this IM back on and running, then ebay spec $200 turbo, meth injection and at least two 1/4 passes of faster than 15.9 before blowing up.
Awesome. Look into some nitrous. Should get your goal lol.


Post some videos once you get everything running
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So this has been slow. :(

Anyways I have the manifold finished, and the injector wiring harness.



I am trying to rip out as much stuff as I can without breaking systems. Ideally I only want the block, brakes, trans, intake and exhaust, everything else can go. However not wanting to do it all now, I want to ensure that I don't have a leak or over pressurization someplace.

So the green arrow? What is that box, can I just cap the hose coming from it? It used to head to the IM. Is that for emission?

The pink circles. One runs from the IM and the other I think went into the carbs. Can they be capped or joined together?


What is this?


Pink circle. What was this used for?
Yellow circle. This went to the black charcoal can. Where does it go? What runs through it?


Thank you to everyone in advance for their knowledge.
 

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Since it's going to be used to test a 4-injector EMS, I worry about sequential injection sharing injectors. I can see batch fire working, but that's not ideal either.

The first picture shows coolant tubes that can be bridged since both are between the pump & t-stat. The "what's that" is probably the breather box.

The next pic is probably the evap purge solenoid, but could also be for idle control depending on what it's hooked up to.

The last pic is probably the evap purge solenoid, and the yellow circle is the fuel tank vent going to the charcoal canister.
 

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The pink circles. One runs from the IM and the other I think went into the carbs. Can they be capped or joined together?
The black box is for crankcase ventilation. The stock PCV hooks to it, you can run a hose to the intake from it or get a catch can setup.

The hoses are for the original warmup device on the stock carbs is my best guess, on EFI motors it goes to the Idle Air Control Valve, you should be able to connect the hoses (capping them might cause a problem with air in the system).

Here is my EFI engine setup

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Perfect, exactly what I needed. Thank you HiProfile and BeerDrinkin!!!

Since it's going to be used to test a 4-injector EMS, I worry about sequential injection sharing injectors. I can see batch fire working, but that's not ideal either.
It will run in twin simultaneous batch fire (yes I made that up).

The idea is that the injectors are split into primaries and secondaries (front and rear) which will each simultaneously fire. Thus acting like batch fire for cyl 1/2 and 3/4 due to the twin runners heading into the existing manifold. The primary injectors are doing most of the work especially around idle and low load. The secondaries will kick in around 65-75% duty cycle of the primaries.
 

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Is there only to intake runners on the head? Or is there a plenum on the end of the runners dividing the charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is there only to intake runners on the head? Or is there a plenum on the end of the runners dividing the charge.
It runs into the factory manifold. It used to have twin carbs so am only replacing them and running my frankencreation into the factory mini manifold.
 

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I think you can hit 13's for 1300AUD. I know I can and you seem to be as smart or smarter than I am and maybe even more willing to try outlandish things, which always pays off in the end!

Looking forward to more updates.
 
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