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Discussion Starter #1
I failed my smog test today because my obd system was not ready to test . However I did pass my emissions and visual check . Does anyone know the drive cycle that is needed in order for the obd monitors to turn from not ready to ready? And do all of them need to turn on in order to pass smog ? Please help I have 15 days to do my free retest . Thanks . Btw I have a 97 ex and live in Cali
 

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How long did you wait in between reset and test? It sounds like you just need to drive around for a little while. Let the car cool down and then do cold start and warm up to temp and log a few miles and you should be good.
 

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ej8
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Not truly a time period but more of a condition.

I normally can get mines to set in a 30min drive.

Basically drive it hard, then cruis. Ac on a bit ac off. And i can get everything to check.

You really need a scanner and just check it when u can.

Also which sensor wasnt ready? Normally when there is a problem that one will take longer to set.
 

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Classic Man
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Most decent scan tools show you the status of the readiness monitors.

Like said, once the PCM sees you go through all the necessary drive cycles, it will set the monitors and you are good to go.

Sometimes people have issues with the monitors not setting, ever. Once you turn off the car for the night, everything goes back to zero the next morning. This is usually caused by a failure on the keep alive ram circuit, power, or ground, or a bad connection somewhere to the PCM. Or a bad PCM (not super common for our cars).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not truly a time period but more of a condition.

I normally can get mines to set in a 30min drive.

Basically drive it hard, then cruis. Ac on a bit ac off. And i can get everything to check.

You really need a scanner and just check it when u can.

Also which sensor wasnt ready? Normally when there is a problem that one will take longer to set.
Fuck I'm so pissed . I let my car sit all day long than at night I did the proper drive cycle which turn on all the monitors to ready . So when I'm driving back home the check engine light turns on . It's the same code that doesn't wanna go away . It's p0325 for knock sensor. So now I have to clear the codes and have to do the drive cycle again . Does anyone know why this code keep coming back?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it took 15 minutes to get monitors to ready. I lets the car sit all day than
Turn it on and let it idle for 2 minutes than drove on the freeway 55-60 miles with ac and rear defroster on . Now I have to hope knock sensor code won't turn back on . Than hope to make it to the smog station without the code turn in on
 

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whats so hard about replacing that knock sensor? if the code pops back on, its a failed knock sensor. They DO go out occasionally, and DO take a long time for the ecu to figure it out and set a static code.

If you have a proper scanner, check and see if there are any "shadow" or "pending" codes. THese mean the ecu is thinking "might be bad" and is watching it.
 

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ej8
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Hopefully you got an oem knock sensor.
A cheap one will not work and the cel will come back on.
I order one of the $10 ones from ebay and it last 1 day then the code came back.
I clear it and the same thing.

So order another thinking o got a bad one. Same problem.
Then i learn the ebay ones simply dont meet the spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So far I got all the monitors ready except the evap one. Are u allowed to have one monitor not ready in Cali? Or do u need all of them ?
 

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ej8
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So far I got all the monitors ready except the evap one. Are u allowed to have one monitor not ready in Cali? Or do u need all of them ?
Wasnt driving when i live in cali.
But i know in TX you need them all set to ready in order to pass. Since cali is much harder on emission. Im pretty sure your need them all set.

Evap normally sets while your cruising or slowing down.
 

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Classic Man
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Set them all. Usually a knock sensor code is serious business. haha.

Unless its just unplugged. Double check that the plug is secure, and the terminal has no corrosion. ;)


ALSO double check for shit that is rattling around the engine bay, loose brackets on the engine, exhaust leaks, bad valve lash, rod knock...all of this will activate the knock sensor routine and possibly cause a CEL.
 

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x2 on rattle checks.

BUT I disagree with the cheapo ebay knock sensors not working.

I have also seen a case of extremely BAD valve lash adjustment setting off the damn code.

OR your car is legitimately detonating and the code is being sent for a real purpose, and not in error.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I replaced the knock sensor and the code went away . And it's been 4 days now and still no code ? so I went to take the smog test and it passed perfectly .
 
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