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The Master Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, I am currently building a new D16 motor. I want opinions on where the weak points are, as well as what kind of power I should expect. This is going to be Daily driven, might go on track a few times...

I am hoping to get 250-300 hp out of this setup. This car sees some 300-400 trips (highway). I don't drive it too much anymore as I take the train to work, but THE KEY IS THAT IT MUST REMAIN RELIABLE. Also, my girlfriend drives it occasionally, so it can't be too tough for her... (It doesn't have PS or AC, so that's already annoying her enough...(Is a DX coupe originally))
I am thinking of a manual boost controller (SMC) in the engine bay, and having it tuned for 15 PSI, but only run it at 12 psi (WOULD THIS BE OK OR DO I NEED 2 TUNES?)

Out of the above I do not yet have only items that have ???? next to them.
I do not want to spend too much more in the setup as it's already cost me almost as much as a JDM ITR Swap... In the 2 years I have accumulated these parts to do everything in 1 shot, I have been running my stock DX motor... :roll:
 
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looks good so far. Might want to think about a nice turbo cam and maybe a MSD ignition.
 
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Just wondering why you choosing to use such high compression pistons for a turbo setup?? Everything else seems good so far!
 

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The Master Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #4
eraser615 said:
Just wondering why you choosing to use such high compression pistons for a turbo setup?? Everything else seems good so far!
Baught the pistons and block together... Plus, since it will be well tuned, high comp is fine and will give me better power out of boost... audi's boost all day with high compression...
 
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Someoen deleted my other post cause they didn't like it? What lame actions...

pelsise said:
Hi All, I am currently building a new D16 motor. I want opinions on where the weak points are, as well as what kind of power I should expect. This is going to be Daily driven, might go on track a few times...

Here is what I have accumulated:

-D16Y8 block - RS Sleeved 77mm
-JE Pistons 77mm 9.8-10:1 Compression
-AEM Hyper 2 Rods
-Crank Micropolished, ACL and Honda Bearings: Running on the looser end of the tolerances.
-Stock Bored Headgasket
-ARP Head Studs
-D16Z6 Head, Ported, Polished, stock cam, stock valves
-62 mm JG throttle body and port matched stock intake manifold.
-Stock Main Bolts (re-used)
-Cam Gear????
-Stock ignition system, stock wires
-Colder Plugs (copper - NGK)

Transmission:
-Stock Flywheel resurfaced
-Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
-1995 Dx Transmission with Quaife LSD
-Stock Axles to ITR 5 lug conversion.
-Rsx 16" Wheels, 205-45zr16 Sumitomo HTRZ2 Tires
(I do not ever intend to use drag or drag radial tires)

Turbo:
-Revhard Cast Manifold Bought (Have the option of getting an SFP tubular for 250$)
-Mitsubishi td05H DSM Turbo - upgraged to 18G Compressor by forced performance, Hahn Race Craft 10cm exhaust housing and 2.5" elbow.
-Internal WasteGate (32mm or 34mm don't remenber but stock on hahn housing)
-3" custom exhaust from there
-3" carsound Cat
-3" in 3" out flowmaster 40 series muffler (baffled)???? (Not yet certain)
-3" resonator
-Custom 3*8*22" Spearco race bar and plate intercooler - Cast end tanks -2.5" inlets, one facing the back to shorten the path to the turbo.
-2.5" Charge Piping
-Denso ABV Blow off valve (or something else if I find a good used one...)

Fuel System -
Hondata s200b
dsm 450cc injectors
AEM Fuel Rail and FPR
Walbro 255lph intank.

Monitoring:
Apexi tubo Timer (with O2 reading)
Apexi Boost and EGT Gauges
Obx water and oil Temp
Autometer Fuel and Oil Pressure Gauges????

oil cooler????

I am hoping to get 250-300 hp out of this setup. This car sees some 300-400 trips (highway). I don't drive it too much anymore as I take the train to work, but THE KEY IS THAT IT MUST REMAIN RELIABLE. Also, my girlfriend drives it occasionally, so it can't be too tough for her... (It doesn't have PS or AC, so that's already annoying her enough...(Is a DX coupe originally))
I am thinking of a manual boost controller (SMC) in the engine bay, and having it tuned for 15 PSI, but only run it at 12 psi (WOULD THIS BE OK OR DO I NEED 2 TUNES?)

Out of the above I do not yet have only items that have ???? next to them.
I do not want to spend too much more in the setup as it's already cost me almost as much as a JDM ITR Swap... In the 2 years I have accumulated these parts to do everything in 1 shot, I have been running my stock DX motor... :roll:
I highly recommend endyn pistosn, golden eagel sleeves, and eagel rods. the eagle rods can more than handle what you'll throw at them.
3" exhaust is perfect, 2.5" turbo pipig is fine too. don't use the dsm injectors. your building a 400+ hp motor and 450 will not support them. you need a minium of 550's. I'm runnign 752cc or msd 72lb injectors in my car project. they were $365 shipped.
don;t need a 62mm tb. waste of $$ on a d you won't gain power with a tb that large, it will actually cause volosity loss and this can lower torque. use a ls/gsr tb. think they are 58mm stock.

trany won't hold in stock forum, you need a quafe diff with aftermarket axels.
you need a allow flywheel any car that runs under 12.99 msut have an approved race dot flywheel and stocks are not approved.
centerforce is crak, get a clutch masters setup stage4 with spring center for soem releife on the street and your set.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #7
oscarmayer said:
Someoen deleted my other post cause they didn't like it? What lame actions...

pelsise said:
Hi All, I am currently building a new D16 motor. I want opinions on where the weak points are, as well as what kind of power I should expect. This is going to be Daily driven, might go on track a few times...

Here is what I have accumulated:

-D16Y8 block - RS Sleeved 77mm
-JE Pistons 77mm 9.8-10:1 Compression
-AEM Hyper 2 Rods
-Crank Micropolished, ACL and Honda Bearings: Running on the looser end of the tolerances.
-Stock Bored Headgasket
-ARP Head Studs
-D16Z6 Head, Ported, Polished, stock cam, stock valves
-62 mm JG throttle body and port matched stock intake manifold.
-Stock Main Bolts (re-used)
-Cam Gear????
-Stock ignition system, stock wires
-Colder Plugs (copper - NGK)

Transmission:
-Stock Flywheel resurfaced
-Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
-1995 Dx Transmission with Quaife LSD
-Stock Axles to ITR 5 lug conversion.
-Rsx 16" Wheels, 205-45zr16 Sumitomo HTRZ2 Tires
(I do not ever intend to use drag or drag radial tires)

Turbo:
-Revhard Cast Manifold Bought (Have the option of getting an SFP tubular for 250$)
-Mitsubishi td05H DSM Turbo - upgraged to 18G Compressor by forced performance, Hahn Race Craft 10cm exhaust housing and 2.5" elbow.
-Internal WasteGate (32mm or 34mm don't remenber but stock on hahn housing)
-3" custom exhaust from there
-3" carsound Cat
-3" in 3" out flowmaster 40 series muffler (baffled)???? (Not yet certain)
-3" resonator
-Custom 3*8*22" Spearco race bar and plate intercooler - Cast end tanks -2.5" inlets, one facing the back to shorten the path to the turbo.
-2.5" Charge Piping
-Denso ABV Blow off valve (or something else if I find a good used one...)

Fuel System -
Hondata s200b
dsm 450cc injectors
AEM Fuel Rail and FPR
Walbro 255lph intank.

Monitoring:
Apexi tubo Timer (with O2 reading)
Apexi Boost and EGT Gauges
Obx water and oil Temp
Autometer Fuel and Oil Pressure Gauges????

oil cooler????

I am hoping to get 250-300 hp out of this setup. This car sees some 300-400 trips (highway). I don't drive it too much anymore as I take the train to work, but THE KEY IS THAT IT MUST REMAIN RELIABLE. Also, my girlfriend drives it occasionally, so it can't be too tough for her... (It doesn't have PS or AC, so that's already annoying her enough...(Is a DX coupe originally))
I am thinking of a manual boost controller (SMC) in the engine bay, and having it tuned for 15 PSI, but only run it at 12 psi (WOULD THIS BE OK OR DO I NEED 2 TUNES?)

Out of the above I do not yet have only items that have ???? next to them.
I do not want to spend too much more in the setup as it's already cost me almost as much as a JDM ITR Swap... In the 2 years I have accumulated these parts to do everything in 1 shot, I have been running my stock DX motor... :roll:
I highly recommend endyn pistosn, golden eagel sleeves, and eagel rods. the eagle rods can more than handle what you'll throw at them.
3" exhaust is perfect, 2.5" turbo pipig is fine too. don't use the dsm injectors. your building a 400+ hp motor and 450 will not support them. you need a minium of 550's. I'm runnign 752cc or msd 72lb injectors in my car project. they were $365 shipped.
don;t need a 62mm tb. waste of $$ on a d you won't gain power with a tb that large, it will actually cause volosity loss and this can lower torque. use a ls/gsr tb. think they are 58mm stock.

trany won't hold in stock forum, you need a quafe diff with aftermarket axels.
you need a allow flywheel any car that runs under 12.99 msut have an approved race dot flywheel and stocks are not approved.
centerforce is crak, get a clutch masters setup stage4 with spring center for soem releife on the street and your set.

No Offence, but READ MY POST BEFORE MAKING COMMENTS.
I do NOT Want 400 Hp I want 250-300 HP
I HAVE HONDATA S200B
I HAVE A QUAIFE,
I HAVE RS SLEEVES They are much thicker than GE (I have 2 sleeved blocks, one by GE one by RS in my garage) Either one would hold all the boost I need...
AEM Rods were designed for 500 hp (More than I will make and they are lighter than Eagles)
I have JE's, I don't need to blow $500 more on endynes, as these pistons are almost flat top and would not benefit from the swirl...

I dont agree at all about the 58mm vs 62 mm throttle body! 62mm is a pretty good match to the 2.5" I do not want a bigger bottleneck by going down to 58mm
Good Point on Centerforce, Is CM stage 4 Streetable (And easy enough for a girl to drive?)
Not sure about injectors, as I need to keep a decent Idle. This is a STREET CAR.
For flywheel, which one would be approve for 12 second cars? I'm thinking ACT Streetlight???
 
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Fair enough about disagreeing in the tb each's own opinion
anythign but stock. I perfer the CF alloy one myself. that's what i run

I didn;t read everything no sI jsut skimmed through it.

the hondata can properly idle 1200cc injectors. so 550's are fine. if you want only 250 wheel pwoer, you could have left the motor stock with just basic rods and pistons and hit way more than that. your building a 400+ motor and runnign it at 1/2 it's capability and safety zone. that's liek killing a fly with an eleghant. if your sleeving and soig that much to the car, you migh as well expect 350 wheel power then on 18 lbs and fyi it would be stable as a daily driver too.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #9
oscarmayer said:
Fair enough about disagreeing in the tb each's own opinion
anythign but stock. I perfer the CF alloy one myself. that's what i run

I didn;t read everything no sI jsut skimmed through it.

the hondata can properly idle 1200cc injectors. so 550's are fine. if you want only 250 wheel pwoer, you could have left the motor stock with just basic rods and pistons and hit way more than that. your building a 400+ motor and runnign it at 1/2 it's capability and safety zone. that's liek killing a fly with an eleghant. if your sleeving and soig that much to the car, you migh as well expect 350 wheel power then on 18 lbs and fyi it would be stable as a daily driver too.
I know, I've always been about overkill... ;-)

For the injectors, I've heard that I probably couldn't even pass emissions with 450s. Something about the minimum opening time and the volume of flow. Wont anything over 450 give too much fuel at idle?
Also, can't I compensate in the to end by running slightly higher than stock fuel pressure?
 
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oscarmayer said:
I didn;t read everything no sI jsut skimmed through it.
I guess with your superior knowledge you don't even need to read posts... you just automatically know the answer. :roll:
 
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Looks good you'll have lower CR than that you have the y8 block and z6 head.
 
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the Z6 head flows much better than the Y8 for FI systems.

Actualyl if you have a good tuner you'll be fine in passing emmissions with any 550 injector. if your really only wanting 250 wheel power, then heck go get yourself a set of prelude vtec inejctors for like $85 a set off ebay or the junker and they are 310-345cc depending on yr and model. they can support up to 285 wheel power just fine.all you need to do is get a adjsutable fuel pressure regulator and instead of settign it to 40 -44psi you set it to like 55-60psi
 

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D-series wise guy
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you are going to want at least 440cc injectors for 250whp. Running the 345cc lude injectors will have them near max duty cycle and thats not ideal for a daily driver. You can get 440cc dsm injectors for cheap or go with some new ones from www.rceng.com (my preference).

As for just jacking up the fuel pressure... No... Get the proper engine management. Besides, good luck jacking up the fuel pressure and keeping the thing idling. If you could get away with only that, then they would have never made an fmu (which is better, but still a poor choice). Stick with the hondata in the original list.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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Discussion Starter #15
DraZtiK said:
Looks good you'll have lower CR than that you have the y8 block and z6 head.
it's actually about 9.8 with the z6 head, high than 10:1 with y8 head. I used the compression calculator... It's funny, but compression increases as bore increases...
 
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