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Discussion Starter #1
I'm recieving error code 1 from my car. it comes up once in a while but has been doing it more and more lately. haynes says to check and replace the o2 sensor if nessisary but this is the second new o2 i've used. I have a vx but swapped in the d16z6. still using the vx wiring harness. wired the o2 sensor using a write-up i found on honda-swap.com and rechecked it so many times. what else could be causing the problem?
 

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it's got to be your wiring. p28 requires a 4-wire o2 sensor unless you chipped it and modified it to go without. check and check again... use a multimeter to test for continuity and possible shorts.

the vx uses a 5-wire o2 sensor, right? it's going to be wired to different pins on the ecu than what a p28 expects since the 5-wire is a wideband o2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no exhaust leak, at least i don't hear any. well if this help when i'm driving in any condition the light comes on and the car starts to feel boggy. like spirts of acceleration. then when i check the CEL codes it gives me code 1. not to get off track but i just read something about the main relay going bad, but that had to deal with starting the car, well i'm going to check the main relay anyway. but any other info?
 

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well i rewired it again let's see if anything changes, i was using the stock 5-wire plug to make things less messy. I just by-passed it to cut that out of the guessing game, next i'll just run new wire directly to the o2, if things don't improve. thanks for the help:D
 

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can you take the sensor back out? see if it's black already.

i dunno... do you have datalogging? check to see if you're getting any voltage fluctuations from the sensor. Hookup a voltmeter to the sensor wire and ground and see if it's giving you somewhere between 0-1V.

Do you have an oscilloscope? You could check the heater wire to see if it's getting the heater voltage. It is pulse width modulated... meaning it will be ON-OFF-ON-OFF... and so on. 0 to 5V...

other than that... dunno. Do you have a chipped p28? maybe they disabled the o2 heater in the chip and the o2 sensor is not getting hot enough to run correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
well i got a multimeter and checked the o2 according to the haynes repair manuel and here are the resaults...

D14 while running displayed .001-.002 volts, the meter was on the 2 volt setting.

resistance between the heater wires A6 & B1 was less than 10ohmes.
while the ignition was in the on position (motor not running) B1 read battery voltage, so did A6; while running B1 dispalyed battery voltage and A6 displayed .36 volts.

and D22 wasn't teasted except continutity between D22 and ground.

all other sensors tested worked fine except for the electronic load detector, i couldn't locate the plug.
 

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i have the stock motor and stock 02 in my car and mine does teh same thing...its usually when i do like a 3rd gear pull tho..then it runs rough and fluxuates...its gay as hell
 

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i have the same problem with a d15 in a cx using a p08. i was using the 1 wire o2 sensor, replaced it with a 4 wire but only using the one wire. Its a little better but i still have the same problem.

should i run the other 3 wires to the ecu, b/c i was under the impression that the po8 used a one wire o2 sensor

also i notice the hesitation sometimes w/out a code if i am driving at about 4000 rpm and drop down to 2300 or so and give it gas, it hesitates and boggs

the code will also come up sometimes if i am in the bottom of a gear and pull it all the way past vtec
 

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Discussion Starter #16
my car only shows any sign or problem once the check engine light comes on, if i turn the car off then start it again the light goes away until it pops up randomly again but runs fine again until then. FAULTY ECU? i know the O2 is not bad i just bought a new denso, ran the wiring directly from the O2 to the ECU. could anything mechanical cause this error?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i think i have found the problem. I noticed a crack on my DC headers right where the piping comes off of the flange that bolts onto the head on the cyl. 1. looks pretty big would this also explain whe it only seems to be comming on at high RPM's now? it heats up and expands...?
 

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wow!was the ceramic coated one? did you have to relocate your lamda sensor after mounting the dc? i had the same problem too with my one wire sensor after i moved it at the collector before the catalyst. But i got a 3 wire sensor not a four one! So i didn't have to change anything at all concerning the connector. The black wire went where it was before, the other i grounded it on the car and tha last for heating the sensor. I actually got power supply from the fuse box. Until now it works smoothly
superdewy my car behaved exactly the same way with yours!the problem was on 1500-2800rpm
 
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