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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a stock half size radiator from a del sol on my turbo crx and during summers got very hot and overheated when bashing on the car.
At normal cruising on long trips or as a daily driver had no problem.
The radiator was installed at a slight angle.

Now i've make a custom radiator with another slim fan ( they sit a lot better in my opinion , comparing to the previous angled one ).
Now keep in mind that it's winter here , so ... temperatures are slightly over 0 degrees celsius.
I made some pulls for some logs and the ect got in full boost to 210 F while the iat was at 91 F.
On the previous radiator i had in the summer night when logging about 218 F but that was in the summer.

With this setup until now the temp gauge NEVER went over 1/2 (bashing on it or driving in traffic) but i am just wondering if it will be same thing during summer.
Are those temperatures ok ?

Here are 2 pictures of my current setup and one of my former setup.

former setup
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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where you fill it up has to be the highest point that rad is way too low
they make inline filler deals iirc
 

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The engine running temp will only ever slightly drop from a large radiator. It's to help keep stable temperatures and allow more heat to be removed from the engine at a given time. Everything you are saying sounds normal except the temp is a bit high. But in The summer here we see 215-225* occasionaly. If the cooling system functions normally you probably won't have issues next summer and before it might have just been the heat soak. Does it rise and fall after pulls? Ignition timing could he high.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@sleepersedan
Ignition is retarded.
After pulls it falls (the temperature).

@Tibby
look at this picture , isn't the filling point the highest on this radiator ??
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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the highest point on the cooling system not just rad in your case it would be the hose goes from top of the rad to motor. right before it goes into motor is the highest in your case. unless you mount the rad so the top is even with where the top of the stock one would be
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Don't get what's wrong ( if there is something wrong )
I'll wrap the header and dp in head absorbing material and hope for the best , otherwise i don't see nothing wrong as you mention it.
 

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Wrap evey thing with thermal wrap have one fan push one fan pull make sure you have every thing working proper thermastat fans ect... And in the summer ad a little bit of watter and you should be fine.. I drive in phoenix its 115F out side no shade and I beat my car I'm lucky if I see 210
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok i will do that.
So there's no chance that the headgasket is broken or something like that.
I was thinking about the ect too , that it might be broken or something.
So basically there is no need for concern at this point ...
 

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Is there oil in the collent or is there collent in the oil? Thoes are very simples ways to check head gasket but if it only over heat when you beat on it in boost then I dobt its bad... To me it just sound like you have a lot of heat in the bay and in your motor and not much to help cool it off
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
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ok my bad
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is there oil in the collent or is there collent in the oil? Thoes are very simples ways to check head gasket but if it only over heat when you beat on it in boost then I dobt its bad... To me it just sound like you have a lot of heat in the bay and in your motor and not much to help cool it off
Is there anything that can be done to help cool things off ?
I am not going to spray water & meth in the intake.
 

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That is the worst suggestion. The T-stat is a necessary restriction to allow for proper coolant speed through the engine block. Taking the thermostat out may make the coolant run cooler, but less head is transferred to the coolant, making the block itself hotter.
 

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Matty.
You will revise your last opinion after you do a few more thermodynamics classes.

OP

Why do you think 218 deg is to hot.

The hotter the better up to the point where you start to lose coolant or get detonation

The hotter the coolant, the less heat it draws from the combustion chamber. The more heat you retain, the more power you make from the same amount of fuel and air.

The boiling point of water at 15psi which is probably what your radiator cap is set at is 250f and you are well below that.

The glycol antifreese also raises the boiling point even more.

What temperature does water boil in a car radiator

You need to be a bit below the theoretical boiling point at cap pressure so you don't get cavitation at the pump inlet or localised hot spot boiling in the jacket near the chamber hot spots, but 240f should be safe.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html

Also wrapping exhausts etc will have a minimal effect on coolant temperature as almost all the cooling process happens in the radiator.
 

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That is the worst suggestion. The T-stat is a necessary restriction to allow for proper coolant speed through the engine block. Taking the thermostat out may make the coolant run cooler, but less head is transferred to the coolant, making the block itself hotter.
I didnt ask him to remove it permanently Matt. what I meant was that if his car overheated despite the valve taken off, he could rule out a faulty thermostat and try looking for other possible causes. if not and the car runs cool after the valve is taken off, then its time for a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
So we final found out what the problem is.
Matt told be that when the car is cold (especially now in winter) , when first started the IAT temp and the ECT temp should be almost the same ( give or take 1 or 2 degrees ). I logged 5-10 secs when the car was cold.
Guess what... the ECT shows a temp 11 degrees higher than the IAT.... so the ECT is off by roughly 10 degrees and that puts the engine temp right where it should be, at about 200 degrees F.
 
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