Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Taking out a motor is really simple.

First you will need an engine hoist (aka cherry picker)

You will need a 10mm,14mm,17mm deep and shallow sockets (3/8" & 1/2" drive)

3/8" ratchet and a 1/2" breaker bar

Wrench set 10mm-22mm

Screw drivers and pliers.... big to small and everything in between

32mm Socket 1/2" drive.

Ball joint seperator


oil bucket

rags and gloves

1. Before ANYTHING, remove the hubcaps or center caps to expose the lug nuts and the spindle nut.

- This is the big gold nut in the middle

- Use a flat head screw driver and pry the nut back to a round position

- It doesn't need to be perfect, just enough to spin the nut off.

- With a friend on the brakes, take your 32mm 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar and break loose the spindle nut.

- Do not remove completely until you have completed step 4.

2. Drain all of your fluids.. ie. oil, coolant and transmission. (assuming you have a manual transmission)

- Jack up car and put onto jack stands from the sides

- Oil plug stock is 17mm, if not OEM than most likely 14mm, use the box end of the wrench

- Tranny fill bolt is 17mm and drain plug you will use the 3/8" drive ratchet

- coolant is just a plastic plug.

- do oil and transmission first then dispose, then do the coolant as it will take longer.... replace plugs after they have drained.

3. Disconnect all of the wiring harness, if the plugs are hard, jiggle them around until they come off, do not force.

- to be safe, disconnect your battery also

- you can also remove the intake and battery to get in out of the way, if not done already

- remove engine harness from the car and place out of the way.

4. Remove the front wheels and lower part of the suspension, just as if you were changing the springs

- you can leave the actual strut in as it will not be effected.

5. At the bottom of the lower control arm, you will have a 17mm nut with a cotter pin through it.

- remove the pin and the nut

- if the ball joint starts to spin, push down on the brake disc

6. Take your ball joint seperator and place between the lower control arm and the bottom of the ball joint.

- hit the seperator with your hammer until the ball joint comes out (you will know when this happens)

7. With the lower control arm and the suspension disassembled, lift up the brake hub and push it out of the way

- Don't worry about it turning around, it won't hurt it

- Do not disconnect the steering knuckle, it is not neccesarry

8. Remove the axles from the tranny

- You will need to take a medium sized flat head and gently pry it out

- becareful not to damage the oil seal in the tranny.

- Have a friend hold the inboard CV joint and pull a little as you pry it out.

- Don't pull too hard or you will dislodge the CV joint and have to rebuild it.

9. Remove the shift linkage

- There is a rubber boot that covers a snap ring the covers the wrist pin holding the linkage to the tranny

- Remove those.. and DON'T loose them.

- I found that a 1/4" universal nut driver works very well.

- Place the nut driver on the wrist pin and hammer it out (up) until it is completely out

- Remove the 12mm bolt holding the stabalizer link to the tranny

- After the wrist pin is out, slide the linkage off.

10. Disconnect the headers from the cat with a 14mm wrench and socket.

- The springs are part of the assembly so don't loose them.

11. Disconnect all of the heater hoses

- Upper and lower radiator hoses, (remove from the motor side)

- Remove the heater hoses that enter the heater core into the car.

- it is easier to cut them off and replace them with new ones, because the heater core lines are copper and bend easy.

- Disconnect the overflow catch bottle and remove (it slides up and off)

12. Remove the radiator

- remove the fan that is connected via two 10mm bolts on the top

- Disconnect the plug if not already done and slide it up and off.

- remove the two plates that hold the radiator in place. They are held on with 10mm bolts as well.

- Take out the radiator careful not to damage the cooling fins.

13. Remove the fuel lines

- There is two sides, the input and the return

- Uncap your gas tank to relieve all pressure in the tank. ( you will still spill a little gas)

- Remove the pulse valve ( the cap on the input side with the funny looking white plastic top) with a 22mm open end wrench

- It is best to give the wrench a quick slap to loosed than to try and gradually loosen it.

- set the fuel line out of the way and facing up.

- The return side will be a hose connected to your fuel pressure regulator held on by a hose clamp...reomve the clamp and the hose.

- set the return hose to the side.

14. Remove all remaining lines and/or wires

- Throttle cable, via 12mm wrench

- Clutch cable, pull up and loosen then slide out of the bracket.

- vaccuum lines... ie. map sensor, etc..

- Brake booster vaccuum hose

- Starter cables and lines

- Ground cables

- ETC.

15. You should have everything disconnected from the motor now except the motor mounts.

16. Position the hoist over the motor and secure to the motor.

- each hoist is different so read your instruction manual

- An engine leveler makes this step easier.

- Hook up to the head of the motor and the tranny.

- if you have four (4) leads.... use them all.

17. Lift up on the engine hoist just enough to take up the slack.

18. Remove the motor mounts in this order..

- (a.) Rear...(aka left) .. one big bolt holding the mount to the chassis.. 17mm

- (b.) Front... (aka right).. also remove from tranny via two bolts... remove from car and out of the way.. all 17mm

- (c.) Drivers side...(aka front) .. one bolt holding the mount to the chassis.. 17mm

- (d.) Passengers side...(aka rear) one bolt holding the mount to the chassis.. 17mm

- This mount is two piece, first do the above step, then

- there are two bolts holding that mount to a mount plate. Remove the top bolt and the bottom nut.

- remove from car completely and out of the way.. all 17mm

19. With the mounts disconnected, double check to be sure that EVERYTHING else is disconnected.

20. Slowly start jacking up the hoist

- you want the front (drivers side) of the motor to be a bit higher than the rest. Kind of at an angle

- this is where the engine leveler comes in handy

- As you go up, you or a friend push the motor more towards the drivers side of the car.

- This allows the tranny to clear the chassis mount

21. When the motor has cleared the engine bay, pull back on the hoist and place the motor on the ground

- let it down slowly or you will be in big trouble.

22. DONE!!
1 - 1 of 1 Posts