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Engine mount discussion.
Hey guys what are all your experiences with engine mounts - your setup and experiencesPros and cons in running different combinations of all 3 engine mounts vs lower torque mounts. Also what insert grades etc Currently I'm running 75a hports and avid torque mounts - and hate the driving experience
Cheers all
 

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Solid steel is my favorite, solid aluminum isn't far behind.

Distant 3rd is new(ish) rubber mounts filled with a poly compound. Pure polyurethane cold flows over time and pure rubber is too soft and rots, but poly filled rubber protects the rubber and firms it up, and rubber backbone inside poly doesn't allow it to cold flow and migrate over time
 

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I recently installed some eBay aluminum mounts with delrin centers.. All the way around including torque mounts they seem to hold the engine a lot better but I can't speak on driving as my transmission died... Would assume idle vibration just from how stiff they are but won't know til I get a new tranny.
 

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I was running old OEM rubber mounts, filled with 60A uerethane, plus Avid solid rubber torque mounts. The car had quite a bit of vibration, maybe more than I would want if I were to daily drive it, but it wasnt anything crazy. It might be more obnoxious on an engine that idled rough (like from a big cam).

Now Im going to be running 2 of my filled mounts and a 75A Innovative drivers side mount. I cant run the transmission torque mount because the holes are stripped, but I plan on running the AC bracket torque mount once I find the right bracket for my B20.
 

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EG8
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What exactly bothers you about them. Usually the torque mounts being stiff like the Avid ones and not as stiff engine mounts = more vibration with sub-par wheel hop. Basically the engine mounts rubber flex still even though the torque mounts are doing very good.

Joel and I had a huge discussion about resonate frequency one time...

Best bet is to get solid poly (softer side if the vibrations are your complaint), and maybe just filled or stock torque mounts. The Racecare life/Daily life is always about complance vs necessity.

I no longer daily my car. So I actually miss my "vibrating" Honda. But yes, passangers have said they feel like my dash is going to fall of lmao.
 

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CRX ECODiesel Ram
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I am partial to running stock rear and side mounts, and then front torque mounts i usually add poly inserts. For daily cars this has been my best balance of control and vibration. I have done this on my crx, an accord wagon with f22 and h22 as well as a prelude.

for less street oriented i jsut go with 60a or stiffer all around.
 

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Prelude, Integra DB9
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I've found poly mounts to work well on the Lude and the ATR (both H22).
My first Prelude was used more of a tourer than a chuck-around and had rubber sides with a poly front mount. It worked well: engine rocking was contained and there was no vibration transmitted to the cabin.
I think I'll polybush the D16 Teg next. There's a tock-tock inside inside the car, almost diesel-like, but can't be heard from outside. I think the rear mount is too soft.
 

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CRX ECODiesel Ram
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The stock rear mount on my crx is definitely soft. Even with a front insert i can hit manifold to firewall on hard shifts
 

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The problem is more likely the welds and the fitment. I know ppl that run ebay mounts that fit the car, but I think the swap mounts can be a bit wonky.

If youre cheap, the filled mounts get my vote. The next step up is Innovative 75A for those who have more money than time.
Those who are real serious about performance, you either make your own solid mounts or get Avid or Innovative solid mounts. Theyre not terribly expensive.
eBay mounts are nowhere on this spectrum IMO. They just dont make much sense when a can of silicone from mcmastercarr is pretty cheap.
 

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98 ex coupe
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The problem is more likely the welds and the fitment. I know ppl that run ebay mounts that fit the car, but I think the swap mounts can be a bit wonky.

If youre cheap, the filled mounts get my vote. The next step up is Innovative 75A for those who have more money than time.
Those who are real serious about performance, you either make your own solid mounts or get Avid or Innovative solid mounts. Theyre not terribly expensive.
eBay mounts are nowhere on this spectrum IMO. They just dont make much sense when a can of silicone from mcmastercarr is pretty cheap.
lol literally people fill the mounts with silicone? Hmm. Yonaka sells a pretty decent looking solids for $63 on amazon.
 

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EG8
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Yes and it ain't too bad.

I've seen a picture of the Yonaka bushing all messed up on a local FB group.

But the idea is the engine mounts should be stiffer than the torque mounts...

Btw Slo, you should move this thread o_O...
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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The rattlers is you install all the inserts in the kit. Be ready for speakers to fall out of the door and other random rattles and such.

I removed the forward inserts and only used the rear, all you need really.

The CRX I bought many moons ago came with stiff HASport mounts, they have LESS vibration issues than the ES EG full kit.

One HUGE advantage of the HASport mounts, you can kift off the gas and coast down to engine idle speed without the engine bucking. This was very nice while dealing with stop and go traffic yesterday in downtown Chicago, NB on I-90/I-94 at 6:15 pm -7:00 pm traffic. Used first gear only for about 15 minutes with out bucking issues.

1800 lb empty 89 CRX HF, A6/Y8/ZC trans combo, Stage 2 clutch and 7 lb flywheel...worst possible conditions!
 

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98 ex coupe
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The rattlers is you install all the inserts in the kit. Be ready for speakers to fall out of the door and other random rattles and such.

I removed the forward inserts and only used the rear, all you need really.

The CRX I bought many moons ago came with stiff HASport mounts, they have LESS vibration issues than the ES EG full kit.

One HUGE advantage of the HASport mounts, you can kift off the gas and coast down to engine idle speed without the engine bucking. This was very nice while dealing with stop and go traffic yesterday in downtown Chicago, NB on I-90/I-94 at 6:15 pm -7:00 pm traffic. Used first gear only for about 15 minutes with out bucking issues.

1800 lb empty 89 CRX HF, A6/Y8/ZC trans combo, Stage 2 clutch and 7 lb flywheel...worst possible conditions!

Yeah my motor bucks like a wild mustang lol. But my torque mount on the drivers side is broke. Well all the rubber pieces are cracked. (take a look on my build thread for pic). Im skeptical on just filling it with some silicone.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Yeah my motor bucks like a wild mustang lol. But my torque mount on the drivers side is broke. Well all the rubber pieces are cracked. (take a look on my build thread for pic). Im skeptical on just filling it with some silicone.
Fix your junk first.
 

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94 Integra
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New stock rubber + poly inserts. Protane inserts are stiffer than ES inserts. They're inexpensive but will hold the motor firm w/o rattling you to death. They also won't sag like full poly mounts will. I have them on my H2B's (H23A-vtec & F22B) and have no problems with all that torque.

Some poly mounts may come with a warranty, but there's all that down time to consider even if you do get replacement poly.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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LOL. but should I order the energy torque mount inserts? Or ghetto rig it with some silicone
Because you don't wanna fix the issue, you should order a Fleshlight so you can spank your life away and never give a damn.
 
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