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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!
I have just recently rebuilt my D16Y8. Its on a `96 EK(5 speed), and I have a couple of questions....Here is my setup:
D16Y8
Eagle Rods
SRP 10.5:1 Pistons
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
Stock Head
Y8 Manifold with new IACV
Y7 Injectors
I had converted to this from a stock D16Y7
4-1 Headers(2 bung)
Y7 Dizzy
Vtec AFC Controller

Its doing something really strange....I just built this motor, and when I have the VTEC ecu plugged in(the one that it SHOULD be running off of with the new Y8 Head) its way too rich. Under any sort of load, the car barely moves...I can barely get it up to 40 mph. The only codes that it is throwing right now is a CKF and a secondary o2 sensor heater. I am in the process of fixing these CEL's, but I dont think that these codes would affect engine performance as to the extent of what it is doing right now.

I tried just for the heck of it plugging in the old ECU (non-vtec) and it runs a HECK of a lot better, but still not great, not as rich, but still not producing the power that it should. Still throwing the same codes while also producing a idle control system malfunction. (Probably because the TB/Sensors are for a Y8) Also while driving with this ECU, when you are in gear barely stepping on the gas will make the car chug.... but when you step on it a little more its fine. Dont know if thats relavent but thought it might help.

Basically I want to know why is it running like crap under a load, and why it is running so rich. I have a few ideas, but you guys are the gurus who have probably fixed this in 10 minutes. If anyone needs pictures or videos or anything just let me know.

Timing?(We are sure we had it TDC when we fired it up - the head marks were level with the deck of the block and the timing gear was in line with the mark on the block)Maybe we need to retard it one tooth?
Injectors?Y7 Injectors I have heard work fine, but you never know.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just hooked up a snap on scanner to it - its retarding the ignition way too much when the accelerator is pressed. BTW- where is the knock sensor on the motor?
Thanks
 

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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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X2. You should install the Y8 injectors. The P2P ECU maps are based on them.

You're knock sensor is located just above and left of the oil filter. Is there one on the block. If you don;t have one the P2P will throw a CEL.

Further, I don't think the stock ECUs can handle the 10.5:1 compression.
 

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like the others have said y7 injectors are 190cc and y8 are 240cc

this build really needs a tuneable ecu
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks alot for the info....so am I going to have to get a piggyback ECU (Engine management a.k.a Greddy or the like) or a obd1 chipped ecu? Furthermore, I dont have a knock sensor there, my buddy was thinking that it was screwing up the spark advance and is there any way to trick the sensor? I was reading that it sensed voltage to ground, is there a certain resistor that I can wire into it to trick it? Thanks for the knowledge all knowing ones!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, Thanks for the info...I might as well just get an engine management system for it...I dont have to get a obd1 for e-manage tho correct? That would really suck! E-manage is expensive enough without having to get a p28 and an conversion harness.
 

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Two things; you know you stole cory jordans avatar right? Second its ......header. Just helpin where help is needed.
 

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Don't go e-manage, for the money you could have a complete Hondata setup. Get an OBD1 P28, have it chipped, get a conversion harness, and get it tuned. The CKF code is a crank fluctuation sensor that's on the oil pump. It won't hurt anything having a fault on this sensor, it'll just light the MIL. The OBD1 computer won't look for that sensor anyway.
 

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1997 Civic Hatch D18Y8 M62 S/C
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Use eManage or similar piggyback if you need to pass emissions or other inspection that would require that your vehicle to run OBDII.

If you go with an OBDI conversion then you can disable the knock sensor. There are hacks to fool the ECU that there's a knock sensor when there really isn't. However, I'd just go get a knock sensor $50 on eBay and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for all of the help guys, I really appreciate your expertise :) I will return the favor when I can!
 

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Look to advance the timing. I want to say somewhere around one tooth, but DON'T quote me. I ran into the same problem after I built my first z6 but that was already vtec and I was using an adjustable timing gear for the first time. I got to play with it to fix my *** ups.
 
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