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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am back and forth on break-in procedure. I have searched around on here and the newest I came across was like 06 or 07.

Here is what I am thinking will be best. Anyone agree or disagree? Any newer better ways to do this?

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I found a link to this back on one of the old threads a well as a few other places. Is this still the best way to do it?

I posted this here cause this is a turbo motor that I am trying to hit 350whp to 400whp. I am using JE pistons, Eagle rods, Cometic hg, stock head, ACL race bearings, etc. Complete build specs are in my build thread.
 

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i've tried both that method and the baby it method on two different builds, but alas i have no advice. both of those builds ended up failing months later due to other issues. on my next build i will probably break it in hard.
 

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Hard run in (if th engine is put together properly) works better, IMO. I've done it. I will keep doing it.

1. Build it right!
2. Install.
3. Pull hazard fuse, crank over in short bursts until oil pressure light goes out.
4. Put fuse back in, start it up!
5. Get idle fuel right as it warms up, check for leaks, nasty noises, keep RPMs at the stated levels for cam break-in if required.
6. If no leaks or noises of KABOOM happens, let warm up.
7. Set ignition timing correctly.
8. Shut down.
9. First oil and filter change, checking for bad stuff in drained oil.
10. Start it up again, triple confirm no leaks and timing, assure it is warmed up, then get rolling.
11. Stick it in 2nd and give it WOT (If you are Tuning as you go, this might not be a great idea just yet), let off the go pedal and let the engine drag down.
12. Repeat in 3rd.

If the engine hasn't blown up yet, it will be fine. Smoking should decrease and cease by 500mi. Drain and change again. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hard run in (if th engine is put together properly) works better, IMO. I've done it. I will keep doing it.

1. Build it right!
2. Install.
3. Pull hazard fuse, crank over in short bursts until oil pressure light goes out.
4. Put fuse back in, start it up!
5. Get idle fuel right as it warms up, check for leaks, nasty noises, keep RPMs at the stated levels for cam break-in if required.
6. If no leaks or noises of KABOOM happens, let warm up.
7. Set ignition timing correctly.
8. Shut down.
9. First oil and filter change, checking for bad stuff in drained oil.
10. Start it up again, triple confirm no leaks and timing, assure it is warmed up, then get rolling.
11. Stick it in 2nd and give it WOT (If you are Tuning as you go, this might not be a great idea just yet), let off the go pedal and let the engine drag down.
12. Repeat in 3rd.

If the engine hasn't blown up yet, it will be fine. Smoking should decrease and cease by 500mi. Drain and change again. Done.
Exactly what I wanted to do. Will be tuning as I go though. I will start with a safe rich basemap though. Also will be using Ostrich to RTP with and will be logging with free log(no crome pro yet) and with my LC-1 w/XD-16 gauge.

Would it also help to keep from running lean if I left the upped IC pipe loose with just a filter on the tb? I prob wont be running a hood while doing any of this.
 

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I do my break ins just like that link. Both motors Ive done it on ran/run great. Wont do it any other way. Its true that the rings will seat in the first few miles. So it makes sense to me. I just make sure, even if I cant get on it right away, that Im doing a TON of decel, and pulls as much as I can.
 

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The way I look at engine break ins, clutch break ins, etc. Is how many miles do you think race motors see before WOT? LOL. Most probably roll out of the trailer, and onto the track or dyno. Might see a mile driving on the return road or dyno, to warm it up, before they lay into it.
 

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Fuck babying the engine, everytime I do that something bad happens! lol

Build it, start it for 20 mins, oil change, drive it like you stole it to set rings, tune, oil change , go to the track and beat it.

This has worked great for me over the last 17 years.
 

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I broke my motor with 15psi boost and still running today. All my buddies did the same and they're setups are still running with consistent compression across the board. This was 4+ years ago
 

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The most important part in breaking in a motor is the tune. If you start driving it and it's running really rich it will flood out the piston rings and they will never seat, if it's too lean you will break internal parts (from slight detonation). I agree with Acidbeaver, but when you go WOT that doesn't mean rev it to redline. What you are doing is putting a load on the engine, so say your going at 30mph and you are in 3rd gear, you push the pedal down and it won't rev up really quick it will bog down and you just power through it. This puts a heavy load on the engine and helps the rings seat. Do that 5-10 times and it will be golden. Also, remember don't be cheap get a wideband and some tuning supplies and tune it or else take it to a tuner and have them tune it right away.
 

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Thanks for this info guys. My brother is breaking in his b16 and there was a small coolant leak we thought was from the head gasket, when we took the intake mani off we noticed about a tbsp of oil had collected in each port of the manifold. Is this normal during breakin? Or do you guys think the valve seals are leaking? Or something else?
 

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Would it also help to keep from running lean if I left the upped IC pipe loose with just a filter on the tb? I prob wont be running a hood while doing any of this.
you don't want to do that, the turbo will be spinning freely and that's not good. keep it all hooked up and don't boost unless you have a wideband to monitor the afrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I do have a wide band. I have the LC-1 stand alone kit. I also have ostrich 2, hulog, and a burn1. Will be tuning it in crome for now. May change to Neptune later on.

I have a ext wg so I just cant unhook the actuator and keep it from boosting.

Here is what I have for my setup:
JE/SRP 9.0:1 Pistons w/ JE rings 75mm
Eagle H beam rods
Stock Crank
ACL Race bearings
RC Autoworks Mini Ram
Holset H1c
Tial 38mm WG
Custom 3" turbo back
3" Forced Performance down pipe
Cometic 5 layer HG
Bosch 600cc inj
B&M AFPR
Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge
Wally 190 lph (had brand new one layin around)
-6AN fuel line
Precision Turbo FMIC
Greddy BOV
HKS EVC-S Dual stage boost controller (new style)
Chipped p28 tuned with Crome (may end up tuning with Neptune)
Moates Ostrich 2.0
Moates Extreme Hulog
Moates Burn1
Innovate LC-1 w/ XD-16 stand alone kit
GM 3bar map
2.5" IC pipe
ARP Head studs
60mm TB w/ port match z6 intake
ACT Extreme Clutch kit 6 puck solid hub with 2600lb pressure plate
Moroso deep sump oil pan
Aluminum 2 core radiator
Mishimoto hoses
 

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firstly, that looks like a pretty solid build.


...so are you wanting to break it in while street tuning and running it hard? if so, those aren't ideal conditions, but i would start with a low boost level....say 3-5psi. tune the afrs for that, then raise the boost level a little, 7-10psi or so, and add fuel where you will need it, do another datalogging run and make changes as necessary. rinse. repeat.

ideally, you would have someone who is experienced street tuning d's help you or have the breakin/tuning done on the dyno. i know those options aren't available to everyone so assuming that you can't do that, start tuning yourself at low boost levels and work your way up. i've only used hondata myself, but everything is pretty similar. i'm sure in crome there is a way that you can see a 2 or 3 dimensional graph of the fuel tables which will help in setting a starting point for fuel at different boost levels. if you see a huge downward spike, then you need to add fuel in that area.
 

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I run them hard. I like dyno brake ins balls out. About the same as acid list.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Yeah I know it was a costly one too and I dont wanna blow it up. The street tune is only temp. It will get dyno tuned in 2 to 3 months.

no I am not wanting to run it hard til its tuned but I dont wanna do the 500 or 1000 mile break in. I have someone good with street tunes that is waning to use his Neptune RTP and to do it and then convert it to Crome and burn it to chip or load to my Ostrich. I thought about goin that route.

I cant only run 3 to 5 psi. My Tial WG is preset at 10psi.
 
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