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It just crossed my mind that Im going to break-in my fresh D16z6 with a turbo on it! Is it ok to do that? or should I remove it and break-in the engine, and then install the turbo??
 

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when my motor is finished here the next two weeks, im going to break it in first without the turbo, then put the turbo on. I want a chance for the rings to seat without boost, but i have to get mine tuned right when i get the turbo on, so i need to make sure the rings sea before i run the piss out of it.
 

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That all sounds great to but is there any risk in doing so?
you will get a wide variety of answers to that question. There is a link floating around that has a break in process that says to do it very hard for the first 20 miles or so.....................i am kinda scared to do that personally, but they say it works great
 

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i shoot stuff
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if it were me i would just baby it for a while.... dont mash the throtle down, dont stay at constant speeds for vary long (i.e. highway)

edit i would let it idle up to temp though and then a little longer after that,... then check everything out
 

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if it were me i would just baby it for a while.... dont mash the throtle down, dont stay at constant speeds for vary long (i.e. highway)
does constant rpm cause problems during break in or is it just best to vary the rpm for the best possible break in?
 

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99'civic 4D
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One of my friends just tune a turbo NSX on a new full built motor yesterday hit 500hp...
 

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i shoot stuff
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does constant rpm cause problems during break in or is it just best to vary the rpm for the best possible break in?
i actually have no idea y, i just know that some dealers tell u do to that with a new car nothing over 3/4 throtle and no sustained constant speeds for 500 miles. thas is one i remember, now do ppl ever do it for the full 500....i doubt it
 

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you could still do a hard break in on low boost.....


i broke my motor in how i plan on driving it....with boost.
 

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I think that this idea of removing the turbo to run the engine in is all bullshit!

My recipe for a bullet proof running in:

1)Idle at 2000rpm immediately after start up for 20-30 minutes. Watch oil pressure closely during this period.

2)First 250miles done with the lowest possible boost and a peak of 3500-4000rpms.

3)Oil filter change at 250 miles.

4)Second 250miles done with a slight boost increase and a higher rev limit around 5000-5500rpms.

5)All first 500miles done on a semi-synthetic blend. Avoid fully synthetics for this period.

6)Change oil filter again at 500miles and switch to fully synthetic.

7)Change again filter and oil at 1000miles.

8 )Keep constant oil and filter changes at 2500miles.

Short dashes of sporty driving won't hurt, unnecessary overloading with high rpms will, shift early.

I have run-in scores of engines, any type, race/stock, petrol/diesel, turbo and N/A, never had running in related problems in 12 years.
 

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AFAIK: the VERY MOST you wanna go on the first drive is 20-50 miles, then change the oil; you will most likely have a shit load of metal shavings... and prolly gas too...
 

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AFAIK: the VERY MOST you wanna go on the first drive is 20-50 miles, then change the oil; you will most likely have a shit load of metal shavings... and prolly gas too...

Not if you build your units with Torco assembly lube. Makes miracles, reliable engine start ups, guaranteed.

Besides, if you have metal shavings, you have shitty tolerances.
 

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crx and ford ranger
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just use your common sence about it
 

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I think that this idea of removing the turbo to run the engine in is all bullshit!

My recipe for a bullet proof running in:

1)Idle at 2000rpm immediately after start up for 20-30 minutes. Watch oil pressure closely during this period.

2)First 250miles done with the lowest possible boost and a peak of 3500-4000rpms.

3)Oil filter change at 250 miles.

4)Second 250miles done with a slight boost increase and a higher rev limit around 5000-5500rpms.

5)All first 500miles done on a semi-synthetic blend. Avoid fully synthetics for this period.

6)Change oil filter again at 500miles and switch to fully synthetic.

7)Change again filter and oil at 1000miles.

8 )Keep constant oil and filter changes at 2500miles.

Short dashes of sporty driving won't hurt, unnecessary overloading with high rpms will, shift early.

I have run-in scores of engines, any type, race/stock, petrol/diesel, turbo and N/A, never had running in related problems in 12 years.
any break in miles should be done on the cheapest oil you can buy.. superflo whatever.. no semi syn no full syn.. get some cheap ass 1.39 a quart oil..

any synthetic oil wil be too slippery and the rings will never seat
 
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