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Discussion Starter #1
hey... ive heard of many many ways of how to break in a motor... im sure many people have their own ways...

so can you guys post up......

1. turbo or N/A
2. stock or fully built bottom end if so what comp. or setup
3. what head your using.
4. what oil you used to break it in.. ive heard diesle oil is good...
5. how long until your first oil change.
6. how much boost and what rpms you went to for the break in


thanks guys.... this is to help me and other people who will be needing this info
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Process:

1. Put in gear
2. Take it to 5k
3. Remove foot from gas
4. Let engine "Brake" itself down to 1k or so
5. Repeat for each gear as you feel necessary

To answer your original question:

1. Turbo
2. Built ZC
3. Stock DOHC ZC head
4. 5w-30
5. Right after startup, 50-100 miles after startup, and again recently (not too sure how many miles since last change)
6.7psi and I really didn't take it above 5k but that was for other reasons
 

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1. turbo
2. full built bottom end. forged i-beams, SRP forged pistons
3. rebuilt sohc notec zc(a6) with Delta 272 cam
4. cheap-o Shell 5w-30
5. after about 20 miles. let the car warm up. tuned idle and part throttle. did some engine braking to seat rings. changed oil. worked on seating the rings for about the next 500 miles until next oil change.
6. 7psi. but stayed out of boost until first oil change
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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1. Turbo
2. Built bottom end. Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons, bored to 75.5, 8.5 to 1 compression
3. Stock z6 head
4. Castrol 10w-30
5. Started the car, let it run for 15-20 min, changed the oil. Then dropped it off at the dyno for break in. After initial break in was done, oil was changed again.
6. Not sure on rpms or boost, I know they ran it for a while on the dyno bringing up the rpms and then letting the engine wind down on its own or used the dyno brake to bring down the rpms. After that, it was balls out on it :D
 

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1. N/A
2. stock bottom end GSR
3. stock GSR head with ARP headstuds
4. 5w-30
5. ~20 to first oil change
6. 5-6K rpm with heavy engine braking for first 300 miles or so.

just checked my compression and leakdown. (3k miles) Perfect 225psi and 3-4% leakdown on all cylinders.
 

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1. Turbo
2. Built bottom end. Eagle rods, Wiseco pistons, bored to 75.5, 8.5 to 1 compression
3. Stock z6 head
4. Castrol 10w-30
5. Started the car, let it run for 15-20 min, changed the oil. Then dropped it off at the dyno for break in. After initial break in was done, oil was changed again.
6. Not sure on rpms or boost, I know they ran it for a while on the dyno bringing up the rpms and then letting the engine wind down on its own or used the dyno brake to bring down the rpms. After that, it was balls out on it :D
We break all of the setups in on the dyne. Like the second post said, rev up (perfer 3rd or 4th) to a X RPM and let off gas. The backpressure seats the cyl. head and rings....

We will do that anywhere from .5 hour to 1 hour like this, pull car off afterwards and change the oil. Depending on the setup depends on the oil being used. Lately, i've used synthetic oil from moment of start-up, Royal Purple FTW. I've heard of diesel being used, never done it though (rotella brand oil). Each builder/tuner will have their own perference as to what they like to do and why they like to do that. I would ask the person who will be tuning or looking at the car afterwards what they would like to see in the car during breakin.

Also, after the first oil change, its bumpin the rev after that and balls to the wall. If something is going to let looose, it needs to happen then and not 10K miles down the road when the customer doesn't expect it....
 

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there is a thread like this one in the engine building section... but i'll play
1. turbo or N/A
2. stock or fully built bottom end if so what comp. or setup
3. what head your using.
4. what oil you used to break it in.. ive heard diesle oil is good...
5. how long until your first oil change.
6. how much boost and what rpms you went to for the break in
1) turbo
2) built bottom end, 9:1 cr
3) stock y7
4) 10w-30 chevron oil from grocery store :D
5) 30 mins
6) 2-4 psi, 3k max for 500 miles. 5-7 psi, 5k max for 250 miles. ripped it after that.

next build plan:

1) turbo
2) built top to bottom, 8.8:1 cr
3) can't tell you ;) sorry, just like everyone else you have to wait for the build thread.
4) 10w-30 cheapest oil available
5) 30 mins
6) dyno break in, just like the one listed by DOHCschwab ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:alky:thanks guys.... good info that everyone can use.... so far everything is within the same..... thats a good thing! will use this thread for my break in....
 

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It's not a honda motor but about a year ago I built(cam, header,shaved,decked,yadda, yadda, yadda,) a 22r for my truck, after seating the rings, I drove the piss out of it. If its gonna blow while your breaking it in then its gonna blow anyway. The faster you seat the piston rings the better the seal between ring and bore surface.
 

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your not asking for trouble. your rings are going to seat within the first hour of driving the motor. once they are seated... have fun. there is nothing else the motor needs to do after the rings are done. doesnt matter if u beat on it after 500 or 5mi after the initial break in.

not to thread jack but is there a reason for cheap oil being used or just becasue u are draining it so fast u dont wanna put in good stuff?
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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not to thread jack but is there a reason for cheap oil being used or just becasue u are draining it so fast u dont wanna put in good stuff?
From what I understand, that's the main reason, but I don't know 100% on that. I went ahead and just bought a case of Castrol and used it.
 

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I thought the reason for using cheap oil was that it doesn't have the cleaning detergants that others have.
 

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Its nice to see somebody who knows whats going on to chime in, and by the way, its good to use cheap oil
(sae 30) because its non detergent and will help wash out any debris in a newly built motor
thanks man. i treat new engines like a red neck treats his wife. i beat them long and hard so they knows whos boss lol
 

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wnc_klx_rider you need to relax. this is the internet, so its not that important. if he doesn't want your advise or only takes part of it, it should not matter to you. its not your engine, so sit back and cut the BS out. thanks, have a nice night :TU:
 

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I thought the reason for using cheap oil was that it doesn't have the cleaning detergants that others have.
Thats what I have always been told
 
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