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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2001 Civic LX I bought with a junk d17a1 in. Decided to go jdm and started my swap. I've got it all put together now but I'm getting a p1607 code (pcm internal fault) along with it not running 100% (it's missing and rpms jump when you let off the gas)
My question is did I fry my ECU by getting my secondary O2 sensor power and ground from the radio (12v)?
Or is there something else I missed
Note:this ECU was pulled out of a junkyard car that had been sitting and was untested
 

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01-03 civics, especially the 01 and early 02 models, were fucking terrible for frying the ecu's.

It is a combination of ELD, alternator, and internal ecu lack of proper protection that hurts them.

I went through roughly 12 ecu's, 2 alternators, and 3 ELD's before finally saying FUCK THIS SHIT and buying a brand new Denso alternator, honda OEM ELD, and buying a known good ecu from an ecu repair facility.

Never had the car running better.


Anyways.....


Why did you run the secondary O2 via radio power? you should still be on the LX engine harness.

Why did you go JDM? they are generally junk engines for the D series, due to sitting forever, and almost no one giving a shit about keeping them oiled.


I advise running the secondary O2 like factory with the engine harness.


Then get the engine idling, and see how it behaves. Bad ecu generally will have it idling very low, and gives you roughly 4k rpm limiter
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I swapped out harness for the ex.
I'm new to the car scene and I thought the jdm had the most hp
And I went into the radio for power/ground bc I was on another forum thread that said that's how it's done.
Here's where I got the info: SOLVED!! d17a2 swap How to wire secondary o2 sensor! - Honda Civic Forum
From what I understood there was no factory place for power/ground and you had to tap into another source.
 

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If it works, then fine, but Id say next time, simply add the vtec wiring to your LX/DX harness and call it a day.

The ecu still needs the signal wire, and that is part of the ecu plugs. The secondary O2 simpyl doesnt go right along the bundle out front, that's all.


For now, remove the radio-sourced secondary O2 wiring. See what happens.

Worst case with secondary O2 gone, its a chekc engine light.
 
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Your new ecu also will require the immobilizer programmed for your key and car box
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your new ecu also will require the immobilizer programmed for your key and car box
Update: the used ECU I had in it was no good so I got a new one and put it in runs fine now no check engine light sourced secondary O2 sensor power and ground from primary sensor
Thanks for the reply my guy
 
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