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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All from Aus!

Acquired this EK Hatch for the princely sum of $350AUD! Clean car, clean interior, had a damaged front bar and radiator support.
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Nice little driver, with the automatic transmission
Wasn't long before I decided to sell my VW MK6 Golf R and drop some money into this and turn it into a car I wouldn't be scared of taking to the track.

First things first, convert the car to manual! Bought the whole conversion with every nut and bolt for $400AUD.
Decided to put a heavy duty clutch in when I did the conversion using an Xtreme Clutch.

After driving it for a few weeks and loving how light weight the car is compared to my Golf R (1080kg vs 1525kg), I decided after spending a number of hours on that the little D16Y4 deserved to be turbocharged!

FB Marketplace became a source of a turbo - Found a Nissan S13 SR20DET T25 for $20AUD! Had a broken exhaust stud in the turbine housing and was missing a compressor cover bolt.

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I ended up getting some adapters from eBay so normal silicone hoses could retro fit onto the compressor side of the turbo.
Got myself an inexpensive, A/C compatible cast log manifold from eBay, and it all bolted up pretty sweet!

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The wastegate bolts to the front of the compressor housing, which interfered with how I had to clock the turbo.. I ended up removing the wastegate, clocked the turbo how I needed it, shortening the wastegate rod and mounted the wastegate on the backside of the compressor front cover.
I did end up testing the wastegate opening pressure with my air compressor, opened right around 6psi.

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All bolted up

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Managed to get an -3AN oil feed line fitted and a -10AN oil drain back into the pan.
Fitted a Walbro 255L/h intank pump with some 550cc injectors.

To control it all, its all near impossible to find or convert the car to a Hondata as it uses a P2k ecu.
Ended up biting the bullet and installing a Haltech Elite 750 with a wideband.

I got myself a sacrificial P2K ecu, removed the female ecu plug connectors from the PCB, and made a jumper harness using a wiring diagram, multimeter and a lot of patience.

Credit to Humble Performance for the idea on their youtube channel, albeit for a completely different wiring system compared to the wiring in our Australian cars!

The Haltech will come in handy down the track if I want to use it with a different engine..

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Car started and ran well, took a bit of time figuring the injector dead times as the set I acquired had none.

Coolant sensor and Intake air temp sensor was changed to units found in our Holden VE V6 Commodore. Calibration file from Haltech then easily worked with the pre-determined voltage ranges.

CX Racing front mount intercooler installed and modified to suit my setup.

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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Tight fit with the exhaust dump pipe, 2" out of the turbo with a 1" screamer on the wastegate side, plumbed back in, 2.5" all the way through with a high flow cat, and a nice quietish muffler. Sounds nice.
Hard to see pics, cost a bit of money to do but good work isn't cheap.

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Also decided to replace the head bolts with ARP head studs... I did them individually, one at a time, until the full torque sequence.

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Knocked out a heat shield and fitted it to the manifold to keep it a bit cooler. Radiator has been replaced with a new unit.
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Car has had a very safe and conservative tune in it and it makes 92kw (124hp) at the wheels on 5.5psi.

Plan is to hillclimb and track the car, and eventually build a stock compression forged bottom end build to take a bit more boost. May end up going down the track of upgrading to a GT2860RS.

Still have plans to upgrade the brake system using some Honda Accord V6 calipers and the Mini Cooper 280mm disc rotors and eventually look at changing the suspension to suit road/track duties.
Gearbox will also cop an mFactory LSD at some point.

End result is such an a fun car to drive that is reasonably quick for what it is. Ran against a VY SS (5.7L) and we were door to door.

Cheers people (y)

6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks good, keep us updated on how it does daily, its close to what im planning for my sedan,
Now that's how it's done. Shocked at how cheap you were able to get the car and turbo for lol.
Cheers Guys, car needed some repair work when I got it, was involved in a front end collision, had to replace the hood, and rad support, managed to repair the front bar. The picture you see in the first post is the end result.
Turbo was surprisingly cheap I agree.

I've found a rebuilt GT2860RS for sale on FB market place....tempted to get it, it's $750AUD, and store it for a built motor swap down the track...

Next short term plan is getting some suspension...I've been reading that the Koni Yellow/Ground Control setup is great. Is that still the route everyone goes?

Car isn't a daily driver, more of a drive-whenever/motorkhana/hillclimb/track come and try days car. Does have street registration.


6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
GT2860RS is a sweet turbo and matches a 1.6 liter Honda nearly perfectly. You will enjoy it on the street.
Missed out unfortunately..still on my radar though..


Bought some bigger rims for this thing, factory 15" Honda alloys are almost impossible to get or people want crazy money for them.

These are 15x6 +45 Mazda 323 Protege wheels, to clear the upgraded front brakes/calipers when I do them, wheels aren't a direct fit, the centre bore on the rim is slightly too small so a 2mm spacer was added all round.

Gonna drop the ride height a touch, not sure whether to go coilovers or spoon springs, which are rated at Front: 6.5kgf/mm / Rear: 5.5kgf/mm SPOON Progressive Spring Set for CIVIC TYPE R EK9 8/97-8/00 B16B 51400-EKA-001 | eBay

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Decided to have an easy relaxing weekend put a rebuild kit through the T25 as I was concerned the turbo didn't spin free, it caught the tiniest bit spinning by hand and the car was having some intermittent smoking issues, unusual I know, for a $20 turbo off FB marketplace.

Splashed out
and bought a rebuild kit from eBay for $58 delivered, comprehensive kit which included a 360 degree thrust washer upgrade.

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Marked up the compressor wheel, shaft and nut and proceeded with dismantling it. Used the exhaust housing bolts against the core of the turbo, to try and press itself off, which it surprisingly moved slightly and with a few whacks with a dead blow hammer it all came apart.

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Journal bearings are cooked
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upgraded 360 degree thrust washer
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Polished the shaft good and proper, fitted new piston seal
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And re-assembled, balanced with my backyard balancing eye
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And back together.
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Spins freely now with no catching, also gave me an opportunity to attach the coolant lines, back on the car and it has addressed 99% of the smoking concerns I had, I still have the slightest whiff of smoke, I'm thinking of adding a restrictor to the turbo oil feed line and see how it goes.

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