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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!
I'm new here and on the beginning I will present you my track toy.

It's EG3 94' hatch with powered by NA D13 engine.

The car has been built since 2013, I learn on it, an experiment based on a very low budget, hence full mobilization and looking for solutions to improve without spending huge amounts of money. And now it looks like this:

Engine 1.3 138KM & 138NM with CR 11.5:1
  • D13B2 block with stock internal
  • D16W4 SOHC VTEC cylinder head (ported and cutted by 0.5mm)
  • stock camshaft with adjustable cam gear
  • Ported D16Z6 intake manifold with stock injectors
  • H22A JDM spec throttle body
  • Simota Big Tube intake
  • eBay 4-2-1 1,75' exhaust manifold
  • 2,25' exhaust pipes with two high-flow mufflers
  • bigger water cooler and 16-row oil cooler with thermostat
  • OBD1 ECU P28 with CROME

Drivetrain:
  • Lightweight flywheel 3,7kg
  • Custom S20 gearbox from d13b2. 3rd and 4th gear from L3 gearbox (CRX ED9 1.6 DOHC non-vtec engine). FD: 4,437
  • Clutch: stock Exedy 212mm
Suspension:
  • Shocks and springs: ISC Sport 16/10
  • Anti-roll bars: 26mm/14mm (currently without them - testing in progress)
  • Lightweight rear wishbones
  • front suspension from Civic MA8 with 262mm brakes set from CRX Del Sol
  • almost everywhere polyurethane components
  • 1st wheel set: 13 inch 7J Intra wheels with 200/540 slick tyres
  • 2nd wheel set: 15 inch 6,5J Rota Circuit 8 wheels with 195/55 Semi slick tyres
  • 3nd wheel set: 15 inch 7J JR7 wheels with 195/55 road tyres

Chassis (~850kg):
  • Almost stock with almost removed interior
  • OEM VTI front lip
  • Spoon style rear wing
  • Bimarco Cobra 2 driver seat with 3 inch 4 points OMP seatbelts
  • Momo corse d32 steering wheel
  • 3 additional gauges (oil temp, water temp, oil pressure)
  • 3 point front and 2 point rear struts.
  • removed unecessary wires
  • painted by myself too.

Car always wins cups in time attack competitions including open classes, often beating the K and B series.

Here are some photos and YouTube clips:
0-110 acceleration:
Hot Lap from last event:

138780
138781
138782
138783
138784
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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Dude, no kidding! If you didnt say there was a D in there, that first video sounds just like a stock B16, and the gearing is close enough to put the revs in similar locations to a stock B16A transmission.

That D13 is amazing!

With that car being a full blown track weapon, have you had any oil starvation issues when cornering or braking?

Have you had to do anything to the oiling system or pan?
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Barrels going by so fast in video 2 I thought for sure you clipped one. This car is awesome! Engine sounds like a ton of fun!

What brand tire are you running?

And finally! You are running my all time favorite final drive ratio for a D! I love the 4.437. I've had it in two of my wagons, and also in an F2D EF hatchback that I built many years ago. Love the ZXI gear for the D, and it looks like it's really making your car rip. Along with the 8500 rpm D13 that is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That thing revs to the moon! What brand flyweel are you running? Love it.
Stock 212mm from another d-series engine (stock in eg3 was 200mm) light-weighted and balanced:
138799


Dude, no kidding! If you didnt say there was a D in there, that first video sounds just like a stock B16, and the gearing is close enough to put the revs in similar locations to a stock B16A transmission.

That D13 is amazing!

With that car being a full blown track weapon, have you had any oil starvation issues when cornering or braking?

Have you had to do anything to the oiling system or pan?
Thank you! Oil pan is stock, pump too - I'm filling oil to the upper indicator (now it's 5W50 Valvoline VR1). Oil radiator 16-row (after 10~12 minutes on full throttle oil has ~132'C.

About B16... Before on stock S20 gearbox and without VTEC head I had street battles with such B series:

Barrels going by so fast in video 2 I thought for sure you clipped one. This car is awesome! Engine sounds like a ton of fun!

What brand tire are you running?

And finally! You are running my all time favorite final drive ratio for a D! I love the 4.437. I've had it in two of my wagons, and also in an F2D EF hatchback that I built many years ago. Love the ZXI gear for the D, and it looks like it's really making your car rip. Along with the 8500 rpm D13 that is!
Thank you! For now full slick Pirelli P Zero DM (medium) 13' 200/540, and Michelin S412 (same dimensions). Before was semi slick (medium on front, soft on rear) Race GC 15' 195/55 and bigger brake set (discs 282mm from MG ZS, and brake calipers from CRV 1st gen)

Here is movie on semi-slicks (the same track, was much slower than now):

"Runway 1 you clear for take off, steep ascent aproved"
Next Friday will be International Japfest Time Attack event in Poland where I'm assigned to the fastest group (PRO) right next to 500 horse EVO's 400whp CRX's etc. It will be interesting competiton :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Barrels going by so fast in video 2 I thought for sure you clipped one. This car is awesome! Engine sounds like a ton of fun!

What brand tire are you running?

And finally! You are running my all time favorite final drive ratio for a D! I love the 4.437. I've had it in two of my wagons, and also in an F2D EF hatchback that I built many years ago. Love the ZXI gear for the D, and it looks like it's really making your car rip. Along with the 8500 rpm D13 that is!
About wheels and tyres here are two sets: on full slick R13 and on semi R15:
138800
138801
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I love it when you yell at that S2000(?) to get out of the way (in what I think was Polish)!!! Awesome!!
It was Anniversary 30th Mazda MX-5 - he was blocking me all the time in the last session only, because it was my chance to take first place in class - ahead him 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you ported your head yet? Might be a way to extract the last few hp from that platform. Maybe a better camshaft?
Only handported without special meansurements. About camshaft and intake manifold - maybe in the future I will buy something aftermarket like cam stage 2 and Skunk2 Ultra Race, but $$$...

138867


Now I'm waiting for LSD MFactory 1/1.5 way - it should give me more potential in the corners :D
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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LSD is going to make a huge difference. As I was watching one of your vids, I saw you take a better line behind the orange Mazda, but he was still outrunning you, and I was like how!?!?, and then it hit me. You probably don't have limited slip, so it couldn't put the power to the ground needed to shorten the gap, and pull you through the turns. I think it will make a huge difference. I like the Metal plate type. Highly adjustable and rebuildable. At least the MFactory unit is. I've had mine apart quite a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dont think you need a special manifold. You can get good gains from cutting open the intake to clean up the runners and matching it with a larger throttle body. The LSD should be great too. With NA, you have to go for every little thing.
Good point with runners in the current manifold. For now, I've matched the inlet with the throttle body by drilling and using a lot of cleaner after this modification, but runners are cleaned only to available points without cutting intake (using sandpaper).

LSD is going to make a huge difference. As I was watching one of your vids, I saw you take a better line behind the orange Mazda, but he was still outrunning you, and I was like how!?!?, and then it hit me. You probably don't have limited slip, so it couldn't put the power to the ground needed to shorten the gap, and pull you through the turns. I think it will make a huge difference. I like the Metal plate type. Highly adjustable and rebuildable. At least the MFactory unit is. I've had mine apart quite a few times.
Yes this LSD is metal plate type :D but he won't be able to get there before the next trip to the track :(


I promised him a rematch at the next competition and... this Mazda was crashed on the next event where we are going in different groups - ha was over a one second gap behind me and finally he, unfortunately, finished his event on the tyres wall :confused:
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Yes this LSD is metal plate type :D but he won't be able to get there before the next trip to the track :(


I promised him a rematch at the next competition and... this Mazda was crashed on the next event where we are going in different groups - ha was over a one second gap behind me and finally he, unfortunately, finished his event on the tyres wall :confused:
So I do have some pointers for setting up the Metal Plate LSD from MFactory. Did your D13 come with the capability of running a half shaft on the driver's side? I'm eluding to running equal length axles from an Integra and using the half shaft/stub shaft from a DOHC ZC or D16A8 (EDM). Either way, that LSD is adjustable and I would recommend the 60% setting for your car initially. When I first installed mine (it was used when I got it and the previous owner did not know it was adjustable) it clunked so hard when taking slow turns, and even when taking some turns at speed, it would nearly jerk the steering wheel out of my hands. Loud, noisy, annoying, and not safe if it jerked in a turn at speed. Went straight like a champ though. I thought it was either the MTF I was using or it needed to be broken in. They do require break in. Find a big parking lot or a skid pad at the track and do some hard figure eights to break it in (about 20-25 of them in a row). But I had no idea about adjustment. They are adjusted by how you stack the friction plates. It clunked so hard, and my car is a street car, that I took a few pre load springs out as well, and then set the plates to a 40% stack. IF it was a more dedicated track car, I would have set it at 60%, but probably left the pre load springs alone. Because I'm turbo, both sides engage right off the gate but the clunking was completely eliminated. Goes straight very well, and holds flat bumpy turns at well over 100mph. I'm just not willing to push it on the street to see how fast it could do that. Either way, no real loss of traction, even on mostly hard launches, and no traction loss as I roll through and out of the turns. I think you're going to love it! I have had helical and metal plate from MFactory and other manufacturers, and much prefer the metal plate type. When you get it in, I'd be glad to help you figure out the adjustment, etc.


Sad to hear that the Mazda wrecked out knowing that you were coming for him. He won't stand a chance when you get the LSD in this car. Its gonna make a huge difference as hard as your car rips!
 

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So I do have some pointers for setting up the Metal Plate LSD from MFactory. Did your D13 come with the capability of running a half shaft on the driver's side? I'm eluding to running equal length axles from an Integra and using the half shaft/stub shaft from a DOHC ZC or D16A8 (EDM). Either way, that LSD is adjustable and I would recommend the 60% setting for your car initially. When I first installed mine (it was used when I got it and the previous owner did not know it was adjustable) it clunked so hard when taking slow turns, and even when taking some turns at speed, it would nearly jerk the steering wheel out of my hands. Loud, noisy, annoying, and not safe if it jerked in a turn at speed. Went straight like a champ though. I thought it was either the MTF I was using or it needed to be broken in. They do require break in. Find a big parking lot or a skid pad at the track and do some hard figure eights to break it in (about 20-25 of them in a row). But I had no idea about adjustment. They are adjusted by how you stack the friction plates. It clunked so hard, and my car is a street car, that I took a few pre load springs out as well, and then set the plates to a 40% stack. IF it was a more dedicated track car, I would have set it at 60%, but probably left the pre load springs alone. Because I'm turbo, both sides engage right off the gate but the clunking was completely eliminated. Goes straight very well, and holds flat bumpy turns at well over 100mph. I'm just not willing to push it on the street to see how fast it could do that. Either way, no real loss of traction, even on mostly hard launches, and no traction loss as I roll through and out of the turns. I think you're going to love it! I have had helical and metal plate from MFactory and other manufacturers, and much prefer the metal plate type. When you get it in, I'd be glad to help you figure out the adjustment, etc.


Sad to hear that the Mazda wrecked out knowing that you were coming for him. He won't stand a chance when you get the LSD in this car. Its gonna make a huge difference as hard as your car rips!
You and I need a track weekend lmao. Just reading that made me want to race haha. A whole weekend dedicated to test and tune would be a blast!

First things first though, we still need to successfully meet up before a tree falls on my car again lol.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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You and I need a track weekend lmao. Just reading that made me want to race haha. A whole weekend dedicated to test and tune would be a blast!

First things first though, we still need to successfully meet up before a tree falls on my car again lol.

Agreed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Much thanks for this reply guys! About initialize LSD setup - I've bought it in the racing shop, where people with extensive experience with motorsport work (rallies, track racing, etc.). I gave them all the parameters of the car, from power to suspension settings, wheel size and tire type. They just set it to 1 / 1.5 and pre-closure to 40NM.
 
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