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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I got a quick question and kinda scratching my head on what cause this fuzzy type situation in in. I bought a security tft 4.3 monitor lcd screen with reverse camera night vision in my eg. Prior installing I tested it in the battrey to insure operation it works and lcd screen seems clear and not like now.
I modes the camera slightly boring the plastic mount to fit the lisence plate lights seems ok mount and drilled a hole back of the liscence plate.

I routed yellow Rca wire to front. and the other power/ ground I used a 2o gauge wire for my reverse camera and tapped parallel with the lcd monitor power wire. the ground is solid reverse camera to rear hatch trunk ground. The ground for my lcd screen is up front near driver side left foot under a 10mm bolt seems ok the power wire is tapped near a 10 amp back up light. The both power wire is on when key is on.

It's works but the fuzzy lines on the screen throws me way off. Wtf? Engine running also what is wrong? fuse I used for it is 5amp. Causing it fuzzy small lines is the camera bad? Rca? Or lcd? Wiring bad? I soldered the wires good and heat shrieked them?
Worked ok when I tested them?
 

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I consider myself to be a bit of a CCTV expert. I worked for years as a technician for a surveillance camera online retailer, and Ive seen just about any weird problem.
This is not a weird problem.

There are a few possibilities. Either it is noise, probably created by the alternator, or there is a ground loop, or the equipment is defective.

1) The noise would be come from having the video wire running along side or wrapped around some other wire that has a noisy signal. Most of the noisy signal wires are in the engine bay, but any large power wire may have some noise in it from the alternator. Additionally, if the alternator is creating noise, it may be coming through the 12v source for the camera, ion which case you would have to filter it.
The best way to test for this would be to see if the lines are still there with the engine not running.

2) A ground loop is a condition created where there is an offset in the ground between 2 devices. So in this case the monitor and the camera. Make sure both are either grounded in the same spot, or that you give both a good, clean chassis ground. If that doesnt work you may have to use a ground loop isolator.
EL-GL100 CCTV Video Ground Loop Isolator

3) The shit might just be defective. I doubt it is though.
This can be tested by "bench testing" the camera. Take it off the car and see if it has the lines when connected to a TV with a composite input using a 12v or a 12v battery.
 

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EG hatchback
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Original Message
On Apr 8, 2015, at 7:41 AM,
I consider myself to be a bit of a CCTV expert. I worked for years as a technician for a surveillance camera online retailer, and Ive seen just about any weird problem.
This is not a weird problem.
There are a few possibilities. Either it is noise, probably created by the alternator, or there is a ground loop, or the equipment is defective.
1) The noise would be come from having the video wire running along side or wrapped around some other wire that has a noisy signal. Most of the noisy signal wires are in the engine bay, but any large power wire may have some noise in it from the alternator. Additionally, if the alternator is creating noise, it may be coming through the 12v source for the camera, ion which case you would have to filter it.
The best way to test for this would be to see if the lines are still there with the engine not running.
2) A ground loop is a condition created where there is an offset in the ground between 2 devices. So in this case the monitor and the camera. Make sure both are either grounded in the same spot, or that you give both a good, clean chassis ground. If that doesnt work you may have to use a ground loop isolator.
EL-GL100 CCTV Video Ground Loop Isolator
3) The shit might just be defective. I doubt it is though.
This can be tested by "bench testing" the camera. Take it off the car and see if it has the lines when connected to a TV with a composite input using a 12v or a 12v battery.
oh man thanks for clearing things up I just want this thing to be clear already.
1)with the back up camera I don't got noise in the lcd monitor. just those lines but I have the power from the camera with the rca running inline through driver side panel from the hatch trunk. also along beside the rear audio speakers. but still happens with radio is off.
but if it may be coming from the 12 volt power source? how would I filter that?
I connected both power wire from monitor and camera to one spliced power wire to a fuse?
what kind of filter can I buy for that power wires can the both power mon./cam. be run same? and then a filter?
ok with key on engine off the lines on the screen are still there.

ok, on my cam
ground is different location and on the monitor its different also up front. also the ground is attatched to a lot of other grounds near my camera side is this bad?
I will try to ground the cam at same locations. ive ordered a ground loop isolator same as u posted for my rca wires? are thes for the rca yellow ones? just making sure ive ordered a adapter plug also.


I tried swapping the yellow rca cable that didn't come with the kit from radio shack it made a little difference in having those horizontal lines but still there especially when starting the car up
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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take pics of what youre talking about. Im clueless. some camera monitors the lines are painted onto the screen
 

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Make sure your grounds are clean also. May need to sand away some paint, than respray so it won't rust.

@slo, I'm thinking the lines are fuzzy lines from signal interference.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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like porn channels from the 90's via cable? then yeah, sounds like interference.
 

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ok, on my cam
ground is different location and on the monitor its different also up front. also the ground is attatched to a lot of other grounds near my camera side is this bad?
I will try to ground the cam at same locations. ive ordered a ground loop isolator same as u posted for my rca wires? are thes for the rca yellow ones? just making sure ive ordered a adapter plug also.

This could be part of the issue, different grounds on a 20+ yr old chassis will yield different results. Try moving the camera back near the monitor to test using the same wires for power & ground. If it works great when sharing wires, then you know it's grounding issues.

One thing about sharing grounds - if your lug is pushed beyond it's capacity to carry current then you will have issues. Steel isn't the greatest conductor, and you may be trying to push too much through the 20+ yr old spot welds that hold the chassis together.
 

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Based on what the OP is saying I am almost certain that it is a ground loop problem. I dont think I would bother with the ground loop isolator, I would just get the camera and monitor on the same ground.

Xile,
When installing CCTV in a house, it would be rare to run into ground loop issues. It is more common when doing installations in industrial settings in which cameras get mounted to steel beams and such. The problem is that the camera's body is often connected to the 12v ground plane, so when the camera gets mounted to some larger steel structure it can offset the potential ground between the camera and the cameras power supply and the video ground at the DVR. This offset creates a current which manifests itself as lines moving through the video.

The problem you were having was the result of having the video wires getting to close to mains power which is 120v 60hz AC. Its the frequency of the AC power that was effecting the video, and since its high voltage it could easily interfere with unshielded RG59 or mini-Siamese that is a few inches away.
 

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ej8
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Based on what the OP is saying I am almost certain that it is a ground loop problem. I dont think I would bother with the ground loop isolator, I would just get the camera and monitor on the same ground.

Xile,
When installing CCTV in a house, it would be rare to run into ground loop issues. It is more common when doing installations in industrial settings in which cameras get mounted to steel beams and such. The problem is that the camera's body is often connected to the 12v ground plane, so when the camera gets mounted to some larger steel structure it can offset the potential ground between the camera and the cameras power supply and the video ground at the DVR. This offset creates a current which manifests itself as lines moving through the video.

The problem you were having was the result of having the video wires getting to close to mains power which is 120v 60hz AC. Its the frequency of the AC power that was effecting the video, and since its high voltage it could easily interfere with unshielded RG59 or mini-Siamese that is a few inches away.
true true.
It was mainly house and build installs. Nothing would ground out due to all the wood in the places.
And yea it was from the AC power. I did it for about a year then my friend went pro and works at one of the top places in town putting in systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update. I've been searching about how to make my reverse camera clearer and get rid of those horizontal lines. I first looked into getting a Rca cable ground loop isolator type filter came to find out I could find ones that are for audio only.
I found another type filter like a bnc type filter for those security type cameras. Since the filter was only for bnc I had to convert the bnc to Rca.

I got a bnc female to rca male adapter on one end and also a bnc male to female rca adapter. Both ends where opposite so I had to search for the correct bnc to rca adapters.


I put the filter inline rca from camera to lcd screen.
I turn my key on and the lcd screen somehow like 80 percent of the horizontal scrolling like interference in the lcd screen gone. The filter felt like it calmed the water of the screen lol.

Ok after that I've installed another engine noise filter the power from my fuse to the engine filter to my camera power and it includes a ground so I've grounded the filter to a good ground source.

After the install walla
The led screen was clearer way better.
I was very surprised after I installed two filters.
The lcd reverse camera screen seemed now like 95 percent clearer with no horozintal lines unlike before.
When the engine running those interference also is gone. I think it also is from all the vehicles wiring close to power rca grounds alternator charging etc.
For it being a cheap lcd/reverse camera its now clear lol .
I'm stoked from the outcome
It's now clear.
I went to an audio shop they told me that it's from the camera being cheap it's not high end and some times even the expensive ones do that. I ask them for a type of filter but they don't even know what it is. most of their customers number one complaint is that lol lots of lines for buying it cheap. I think I solved the real issue of the horizontal lines in my case. The product is cheap but for it cheap it's now horizontal line free
And it's not the clearest one in the market or whatnot but it does the job also has night vision lol
 

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Good news you figured it out. Thanks for the update. You should post the links to the filters you bought. Hopefully it could help someone in the future!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's where I bought it h can search other sites prob cheaper or whatnot but u get the idea
\/

http://m.ebay.com/itm/111136775840?nav=SEARCH

(Bnc filter) /\

http://m.ebay.com/itm/400444131721?nav=SEARCH

(Bnc male to Rca female adapter) /\

http://m.ebay.com/itm/400631609465?nav=SEARCH

(Bnc female to Rca male) /\

http://m.ebay.com/itm/260741326774?nav=SEARCH

(Engine noise suppressor filter ) /\

The stuff I've used u can also run a separate engine noise suppressor for the lcd screen too.

Trust me this works I've tried it no wavy horozontial lines in my screen anymore especially when engine is running the engine. Way diffrence from before.
 

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If it were me, I wouldnt run the line next to the vehicles wiring. I wouldve run it away from lines in the rear area then under the carpet to the console.


As long as its away from other electrical lines, it will make diagnosing any issues easier.
 

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Sorry for the hijack. I just came across this thread.
I installed a reverse camera on my car (a ford focus, I know that I don't actually belong here, sorry). An when I connect it to the car battery I get this screen flickering and after a while I get a message that there is no camera connected on the car: postimg.org/image/w2r7znl77/

When I connect the camera to an external 12V test battery that I have, camera works perfect: postimg.org/image/6vmhxevyx/
(external battery has also been tested after the connection of the camera on its original place on the back of the car.

I have also tested with a relay (diode-relay) as well as a 12V regulator, with no luck.
Thanks in advance
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
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Sorry for the hijack. I just came across this thread.
I installed a reverse camera on my car (a ford focus, I know that I don't actually belong here, sorry). An when I connect it to the car battery I get this screen flickering and after a while I get a message that there is no camera connected on the car: postimg.org/image/w2r7znl77/

When I connect the camera to an external 12V test battery that I have, camera works perfect: postimg.org/image/6vmhxevyx/
(external battery has also been tested after the connection of the camera on its original place on the back of the car.

I have also tested with a relay (diode-relay) as well as a 12V regulator, with no luck.
Thanks in advance
Whats the voltage of the battery in the car and then test the voltage leading up to the power wire to the screen and see if there is a loss of voltage at all, sounds like a bad wiring or connection issue though.
 

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Hi, thank you very much for your reply.

Sorry for the long post below.

When engine is on, battery is around 14.3V. I have also included a regulator on the system to drop it down to 12V (which it did drop it down to ~12 volts) but I had the same problematic output on the camera.

When key is ON (engine off) battery is around 12.32 volts (I believe that I need to change it in a few months time, but this is irrelevant I guess ~ see below why).

First external battery was 11.66 volts. Second external battery was 12.52 volts.
Both of them worked great.

I have tried almost every possible way to connect it.

1. First was auxiliary power from inside the car. Same problematic behavior.
2. Then I tried a constant power (even when car is off) pin from the luggage fuse box.
3. And then I tried the reverse lights connection as well.

Both 2 and 3, have been tried with the regulator and the relay


Tonight I will try some long cables to connect the camera directly to the battery (with external wires, just for a test)

Thanks again for your reply and I am sorry for the long post of mine.
 

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I just realized that you mentioned power of the screen.

Would it be a problem if the voltage of the camera and the voltage of the screen are different?

I guess that due to the fact that it works with the external battery (no other changes made when I changed the power cables from one source to the other), maybe a ground loop isolator would do the trick?? or my problem seems way different than ground loop issues?

Thanks
 
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