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EG hatch I need help I ended up finishing putting stuff back together from an engine build put turbo everything back. came to find out my car don't even light up with key on etc run etc. I need help to do this. does anybody know where to even start??? im lost. I started checking the battery it has been charged optima battery. good.

checked power at starter to ground ok.
checked thermostat grounds had large upgraded grounds all over the place trans sides valve covers intake manifolds etc. about 0 gauge wire.
I checked battery power at alternator white wire it only had 4.0volts is it normal? also I don't know what im checking but removed steering wheel cover comum cover and says on the ignition switch side letter B. that wire also had only 4.Volts is that normal???

under dash has only zero fuse power.

at first also it had seemed to work only key on, but with very dim and it felt like it had bad battery but the battery is very good. my aftermarket gauges would act like the battery is very low. idk what the heck is causing .it would dim for a while in on then when I put key to start nothing disappears even worse nothing.

horn don't work. lights don't work hazards don't work. aftermarket gauges etc.

so need help idk what I am doing. ij spent so much time effort and money and dam I gota go work again soon. need help asap thanks.. where do I start.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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EG hatch I need help I ended up finishing putting stuff back together from an engine build put turbo everything back. came to find out my car don't even light up with key on etc run etc. I need help to do this. does anybody know where to even start??? im lost. I started checking the battery it has been charged optima battery. good.

checked power at starter to ground ok.
checked thermostat grounds had large upgraded grounds all over the place trans sides valve covers intake manifolds etc. about 0 gauge wire.
I checked battery power at alternator white wire it only had 4.0volts is it normal? also I don't know what im checking but removed steering wheel cover comum cover and says on the ignition switch side letter B. that wire also had only 4.Volts is that normal???

under dash has only zero fuse power.

at first also it had seemed to work only key on, but with very dim and it felt like it had bad battery but the battery is very good. my aftermarket gauges would act like the battery is very low. idk what the heck is causing .it would dim for a while in on then when I put key to start nothing disappears even worse nothing.

horn don't work. lights don't work hazards don't work. aftermarket gauges etc.

so need help idk what I am doing. ij spent so much time effort and money and dam I gota go work again soon. need help asap thanks.. where do I start.
 

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Check the grounds, then the one on the thermostat from the wire harness, did you relocate your battery?? Check continuity from the frame of the car to the engine, then from the engine to the ground wire on your battery... Check your under hood fuse box, there is a big block fuse... If you need more help pm me.. There's a chance it can be anything
 

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You should have 12volts at the alternator white power wire,if that's what you have at the battery

Sounds like you have a short or bad connection or even the main fuse is bad.
 

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white alternator wire should have battery voltage. its shorting out or not fully connected if not reading battery voltage.

Make sure you did not short the battery fuse. it can partially have a connection and provide a few volts.

why bigass ground wire everywhere?

0 or 4 gauge grounds for factory replacements is all you need. tranny to chassis, valvecover to chassis, and battery NEG to chassis.

any additional wires are completely unnecessary and can RARELY create ground loops, leading to sensor noise, but would not block shit from running.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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not sure why you made 2 different threads, but I fixed it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok I found the problem. I currently have a kil switch custom with 0gauge from my neg terminal battery to a kill switch that had a key. another 0gauge wire that goes to the ground side of the chassis. I first thought everything is ok.

I then checked if the switch was bad. negative terminal cable terminal on kill switch side. I checked no voltage only 4 volts. I wiggled and removed the terminal. dam terminal came off I checked the dam 0gauge wire that was wrapped with full wire loom and some electrical tape.
I actually probe test dvmm positive and straight all chassis no voltages.


the cable was full of resistance it had a lot of corrosion inside through the whole cable inside? how the heck this happened.

what kind of cables are good for making battery cables? maybe its a audio 0gauge that caused this?

definitely bad ground..
 

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if its copper wire, it will get exposed to the air and oxidate, causing resistance. honda did it for factory grounds, that is why they are so prone to failing, getting crusty and shitty. that is also why honda made so many factory grounds instead of just 1 or 2 under the hood.


get rid of the kill switch. if you use it every day, your ecu is basically constantly learning and you will never get the most performance or gas mileage out of it.

put a kill on the fuel pump wiring if you need something like that. or on the injector harness

edit: just cut the 0 gauge wiring back, put new ends on it, and either e-tape the ends, or heat shrink them
 
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