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that looks good enough to eat!

junkyard tip ..It was probably the body side of the flex brake line that was not cooperating ,,next time just cut the hard line and fiddle with it back at home base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
that looks good enough to eat!

junkyard tip ..It was probably the body side of the flex brake line that was not cooperating ,,next time just cut the hard line and fiddle with it back at home base.
Come to find it out, it was my cheap harbor freight flare nut wrench. It wasn't cast properly so it just didn't have enough grab. I found another junk yard and I was able to pick up the correct line and a crack free cowl. I think for the most part I have everything to put it back together with a couple of small things on their way from Honda. The painter is supposed to stop by in a couple of weeks to assemble the door mechanisms. Once that is done, then I can tackle running all of the tuck harnesses and cluster conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 · (Edited)
Got a chance to get a little farther on the hatch today after it came back from another trip to the painters. He ended up doing a final cut/buff on the paint and completed the install on the doors with trim moldings. I started the process of removing the front end. I need to figure out how I want to run the tuck engine and headlight harnesses.
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
My rear view mirror came in and I was able to install the Spoon Rear View mirror kit. Come to find out the kit doesn't really fit in the US/Canadian rear view mirrors. It is hard to get it to overlay and it has gaps on the top or bottom of the mirror. I thought about using the dremel but I don't think it would have looked right. I ended up picking up a JDM/EG6 mirror online. Luckily I was able to find the mirror mount clip online through dkhardware part number CRL AGC21.
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I ended up cerakoting the old wipers which came out decent but better than peeling faded paint. The brake lines coating was pretty much gone and bubbling in many parts so I stripped them down and coated them also. Finally I was able to pick up the drivers side bumper stay that I was missing. That one was that auburn color so I blasted that down and resprayed it also. I hope to have some time next weekend to work on the wiring.
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Well just like always, have to take 1 step back to go two steps forward. I will be removing the front brake rotors as I installed the spacers incorrectly. (They go before the rotor). I will also be needing extended studs. I actually got pretty far today. Got most of the dash disconnected. Not having glass really proved handy. I installed the new rear weatherstrip and removed the glass for cleaning. It had alot of glue from the old tint that use to be on it. I got it all off and then completed the rear wiper delete. I got a bit of surprise when removing the cluster surround. It looks like a wasps nest. This car has been sitting for far too long. Still hoping on a Spring return.
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Worked some more on the dash today and I was actually able to remove it. I was surprised how heavy the SRS Airbag was. I might still trim the metal plate on it since the piece is still on heavy side. Plan is tomorrow to clean up the wiring. There is an old alarm system, and antenna cord, and the airbag wiring that I want to remove. Then I have to start the process of delooming the engine/ac harness on the passenger side. Need to remove everything except the fuse box wires and dash harness. I also need to remove the a/c radiator looking thing. I am waiting for the vent bypass to come from Honda. I did get a chance to clean up various trim pieces with Meguairs Black Trim restore. I really like the stuff. Hopefully the shine will last.
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Well pretty much got no where with the wiring today. The tuck headlight harness is either wrong or the provided directions are wrong. They are supposed to have 5 wires that you feed to the fuse box but they are missing. I disassembled the steering column and rack and I was able to install the complete spacer and rubber trim to close everything up. One of the rack bolts is stripped so I will probably have to call Honda in the morning as I can't find the part number. I also was able to put the headliner trim at the end of hatch. I cleaned up some interior bits and started to disassemble the front suspension.

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Well nothing like throwing away money. Had to pull the new bearings out since the hub needs extended lugs which destroyed the bearings. The hub was cheap and used custom studs so the ARPs wouldn't fit through the hole. Have another OEM replacement hub that should arrive on Friday. I hope that will fit. I pressed in the new bearings and I am just waiting now. I finally got in contact with Wireworx who made the tuck harness and they actually upgraded their harness and didn't update the install instructions. Everything is plug and play as long as you still have your passenger side harness. The harness plugs into the dash and the rest of the plugs go into the passenger harness. I am glad I didn't tear up that harness or throw it away in the 2 years that I have had it. I will be rebuilding the steering rack and adding the Quaife 3.25 ratio rack. Getting very close to buttoning up the inside of the car. I am thinking of adding some ball bearings to replace metal/rubber combination in the stock shifter. I cleaned up some wiring, added some liquid tape over the exposed wire from the alarm harness. I will probably leave the dash off until I know everything is working.
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Well the oem replacement hub through dorman didn't work. All of these manufacturers seem to use their own custom lugs with different size knurls. Have a local guy that has some Honda OEM hubs that I should be able to snag after xmas. I am waiting for a steering rack bearing to come in so that I can start on the quaife quick steer rack. I need to pull out the front coilovers also to adjust the height as they are way too low. They need to go up at least 2-3 inches. I installed the antenna cover and got the new Honda rear emblem installed. I also bought some suede and redid the door trim. Most videos online showed that you could just use screws to reattach but these panels are just too brittle. They kept snapping etc. I ended up getting one of those plastic welding kits with the wires and I was able to secure everything back in place. The suede was a little too thin so glue was coming up the other end. Had to clean it up with acetone. If I was to do it again, I would pick up the thicker version of the suede.
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well I have been wrestling with the remanufactured steering rack for the past week and a half. I got the Quaife Quick Ratio steering rack finally installed/reassembled. I ended up having to get a 40mm socket to remove the tensioner portion since someone put loctite on it. Needed to get a tie rod remover since those were on there really good also. I ended up putting fresh grease where ever I could. I ended up running into more problems trying to get the bearing reinstalled. I just couldn't get it to seat correctly at first. The bearing is no longer available through Honda but I found the correct size off an old forum post, the bearing is 15x35x11. I donated/converted a 22mm socket into a special tool by drilling it out so that I could use that to hammer the bearing into place. I just couldn't get the bearing to seat far enough down for the retaining circlip to seat in place by hitting it with a flathead. I actually ruined the first bearing so decided the "special tool" would be safer. The socket ended up working great. I was able to move the circlip circular to make sure that it was in the groove. I am now just waiting on another set of integra hubs to see if they have the right knurl size. If not, I will probably have to try to find someone locally. None of the junkyards have any 94+ integras which is crazy.
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
So I gambled on another set of Integra hubs since I couldn't find some locally and finally got one with the correct OEM knurl. If anyone is looking to replace the fronts, the DuraGo Part number 295-95067 works. Its always hit or miss pressing in the hub. The back part of the bearing separated some. In the future I need to remember to put something on the back also. I was able to hammer it and get the bearing fully seated. I am ready to put the front end and steering rack back together again but probably won't have time until next week.
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Well spent some time with the tap today trying to correct the threads on the subframe, M10 x 1.25. I am waiting for a die (M10 x 1.25) to arrive so that I can correct the tie rod ends since one of those is messed up also. I have to still drill out the center hole on my wheel spacers as they don't clear the new hubs. Once that is done then I can install the brakes, the pedal assembly and steering rack. Hopefully it will be back to full roller status by Saturday.
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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
So its been a while since my last update. I think I am done purchasing most of the things I need put the car together. I ended up installing the Hard Race tie rods over this past week. I also had to re tap the brake calipers and install the parking brake lines. The calipers were "remanufactured" and someone decided to tap the parking brake bracket in SAE instead of metric. I had to retap them and find some screws that would work. I also installed the sway bar end links. Next up is installing the pedal assembly, adding the non a/c vent, clutch and brake master cylinder.I ran into problems with the Minicooper rotors. I could not get them to sit right even with the spacers. I ended up getting some 89-91 VW 11 inch Corrado rotors that should go on without needing spacers. I also decided to tuck the brake lines instead of using the old brake lines. I think the final part with be getting a friend to come over to do all the wiring (3 guages, S2000 cluster, Jordan industries push to start, and headlight tuck harness). Once all of that is done, the car should be ready for an engine. Really hoping to have a running car by this Spring.
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
A little bit more progress on hatch. I ended up having to buy new rotors for the big brake kit. I could never get the minicooper rotors to align right, the pads would just not fit because the caliper position would not center. I think I got a bad batch of rotors since I have seen other builds use minicoopers with Spoon calipers. I had to wait a couple of months but the Spoon rotors (which are just Honda ITR rotors that have been redrilled) came in and installed just fine. I ordered some stainless steel clamps and replaced the wire over the steering rack boots. I also used them to hold the brake lines on the coilovers since the TEINS didn't come with a bracket. I also ordered a remanufactured brake booster. It came in some grey color so I stripped it and painted it in cerakote Arctic Black. I decided to not use the stock brake lines and instead I am going to go with the MPC tuck kit. I cut and flared the lines. Not sure what is next, I am holding off on installing the pedals, booster etc since I am having someone do all the wiring and I think it will be easier to run everything without those in the way.


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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Well, I am still waiting on the gauges that have been backordered since my last post. That is stopping me from really messing the dash and wiring looms. Instead I started work on wiring the fuel pump. I had to cut some wires since I couldn't seem to de-pin one of the connectors. I used quite a bit of heat shrink to cover up my noob sodering. I also ended up draining the gas tank. Has some old gas from over 3 years ago since the last time it ran. I am waiting on a fuel hanger gasket then I am going to drop in the fuel pump. I ended up going with the Radium unit after watching a youtube video. I got the fuel pump directly from Radium so it made the fuel pump install plug and play.

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