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Registered
EG hatchback
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345 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok i checked my brakes all around. remove and inspected my brakes my fronts and rears pad/shoes etc. look good expect the rear right side wheel cylinder. i replaced them with new ones. i bleed and went to a test drive.
the brake pedal felt harder than what was before.

The problem is that i notice the pedal is hard but when the pedal is pressed stationary when like in a brake light or just driving and pressing brakes.

After like 5- 6 seconds i feel the brakes go down very slowly to the floor.
and like in a very long stop light wait the brakes go to the floor all the way.

sometimes im like holy crap. once on a hill up ward i feel it goes down all the way. even in straight level ground.

one time i drove like pressing the brake to 60 to slower at a stop light. the brake pedal felt hard but went to the floor. i had to use the E- Brake to catch up.

what is my problem the master cylinder?
stops but pedal to floor when pressing the pedal when driving.
engine off brakes felt hard. i assumed i bleed it properly

master cylinder??
 

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Retired From Hondas
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2,796 Posts
Did you bleed them like this?

For those of you with a soggy brake pedal after caliper installation, here is the CORRECT bleeding sequence:

Bleed the brakes:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front.
You do not go farthest to closest with Hondas.

Always bench bleed the Master cylinder when replacing the master cylinder, ABS unit, or proportioning valve.
 

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Registered
del Sol si '94
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2,539 Posts
Ive always went farthest to closest lol no issues here. Did it many times on Hondas.
 

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Retired From Hondas
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2,796 Posts
well, for shits and giggles, try it like above.

also, your supposed to put a piece of wood under brake pedal as bleeding it may result in pedal being pushed too far down and damaging MC.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
This is likely what happened.

Your MC was on the verge of going out, likely from fluid contamination.... the rear wheel cylinders are evidence there was an existing problem.

During bleeding, you bottomed out the MC quite a few times, pushing the pistons and cup seals into a part of the bore that isnt regularly traveled, and is packed with seal debris and other fluid contaminants.

The result is now your MC leaks way worse than before, and now its noticeable.



Replace MC, and i would say do a complete system flush
 
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