[Oldcivicjoe]

Add salt to the ice water, stick it in the freezer to drop the temp a bit more, might just not be hitting the needed temp to get it to bypass.

 

[slo_eg8]

is it meant to be cold? lol

 

[EFB055]

Add salt to the ice water, stick it in the freezer to drop the temp a bit more, might just not be hitting the needed temp to get it to bypass.

Yeah i might try and bring the temp down further and see. I've also been reading that they should just be replaced whenever the AC system is serviced so maybe i'll just do that.

is it meant to be cold? lol

It meters the freon so your evap doesn't ice up, it's supposed to block flow when the sensor bulb gets below a certain temp.

 

[drtalon123]

Can you buy a new one?

Because your TXV has an equalizing line, there is no good way to really test it outside of a functioning system.

The equalizer line feeds vapor refrigerant pressure to the underside of the diaphragm. The bulb contains an external self contained refrigerant charge, which is used as a signal to feed pressure to the top.

Changes to the bulb temp influence the diaphragm direction, and the orifice metering size.

This is why the bulb must be placed upstream from the equalizing line fitting attachment on the evaporator.

The pressures above and below the diaphragm need to be pretty equal, with only small temp changes at the bulb being what ultimately controls the orifice size change.

But the equalizing line is also indirectly connected to the TXV outlet liquid line side, and so because these are technically connected, it is a bad idea to use water to flow through the TXV for testing.

No good way to really test em outside of a functioning, closed and properly charged system unfortunately

Usually what happens, is the bulb loses its charge over time, and TXV fails in fully open, which means liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator is not subject to an optimal pressure drop, resulting in ineffective cooling even though the evaporator might be flooded and evaporation is actually taking place.

The pressure/temperature relationship of refrigerants is a special one, and the TXV controls the optimal pressure drop of liquid entering the evaporator

A specific pressure drop AND a good supply of liquid refrigerant to flood the evaporator are both needed for good heat exchange to take place during evaporation from a liquid to a gas.

 

[EFB055]

Can you buy a new one?

Because your TXV has an equalizing line, there is no good way to really test it outside of a functioning system.

The equalizer line feeds vapor refrigerant pressure to the underside of the diaphragm. The bulb contains an external self contained refrigerant charge, which is used as a signal to feed pressure to the top.

Changes to the bulb temp influence the diaphragm direction, and the orifice metering size.

This is why the bulb must be placed upstream from the equalizing line fitting attachment on the evaporator.

The pressures above and below the diaphragm need to be pretty equal, with only small temp changes at the bulb being what ultimately controls the orifice size change.

But the equalizing line is also indirectly connected to the TXV outlet liquid line side, and so because these are technically connected, it is a bad idea to use water to flow through the TXV for testing.

No good way to really test em outside of a functioning, closed and properly charged system unfortunately

Usually what happens, is the bulb loses its charge over time, and TXV fails in fully open, which means liquid refrigerant entering the evaporator is not subject to an optimal pressure drop, resulting in ineffective cooling even though the evaporator might be flooded and evaporation is actually taking place.

The pressure/temperature relationship of refrigerants is a special one, and the TXV controls the optimal pressure drop of liquid entering the evaporator

A specific pressure drop AND a good supply of liquid refrigerant to flood the evaporator are both needed for good heat exchange to take place during evaporation from a liquid to a gas.

Thanks for the break down! I can buy LHD ones for cheap, the only difference is the equalizing line comes out of the opposite side of the housing (the parts are mirrored). But i think i could clear a couple of fins where it would foul and it'd otherwise fit fine. It looks like the bulb and equalizer lines both need to be bent into place anyway.

 

[drtalon123]

Thanks for the break down! I can buy LHD ones for cheap, the only difference is the equalizing line comes out of the opposite side of the housing (the parts are mirrored). But i think i could clear a couple of fins where it would foul and it'd otherwise fit fine. It looks like the bulb and equalizer lines both need to be bent into place anyway.

View attachment 139030

That's what I would do in your situation I wouldn't want a 32+ year old TXV in there haha. Just be gentle with the bends on the TXV tubes, taking care to support the tubing length for any tight radius bends, and you should be OK.

Can't tell you how many times I've moved a 10+ year old TXV bulb SO gently out of the way just to reposition it or something, and heard "TSSSSSS....". The copper will corrode the most near solder joints and will be weakest there. But you should have no problems with a new one getting it to shape where you need it.

You could even bend the aluminum evaporator piping a tiny bit outward away from the coils. Just reinstall the old TXV, tighten the fittings a bit, and ever so gently pull it up and away from the coils to give yourself some more clearance for the equalization line, then with a bit of fins pushed out of the way with a screwdriver, you should be able to clearance enough for the LHD TXV

 

[EFB055]

They're cheap as, so if i bust a new one trying to get it to fit it wont be the end of the world either. Will give it a red hot crack and report back, tx for the advice.

 

[EFB055]

Got my doors finished off over the weekend, installed a new vapour barrier and modified the door cards to fit the power window switches. I'm going to 3D print plugs to fill the winder holes eventually...

I'd made a template off the track POS door card to help with aligning the master power window control, but when i went to cut it out i noticed that the sedan and wagon door handles are in different spots on the door card zzz, so had to guess the position based off photos and brochure pics:

 

[EFB055]

I've got another AC question for anyone with some knowledge to share:

So basically the majority of my AC system is brand new and i plan on running R134a, an EK TRS090 Sanden style compressor (prefilled with the 'correct' amount of oil), parallel flow condensor, TX valve and receiver drier. Problem is i can't find a replacement evaporator and the original one ran R12. If i fit up all the new parts and seal the system, can i just get someone to come out and flush and then gas the system?

I've read that the TX valve and parallel flow condensors can't be flushed...

Any advice?

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

Have it flushed before installing the TX valve, might need to rig up adapters.

Or... are there any industrial/commercial A/C repair shops? Might take I picture of the lhd evap core and the rhd evap core down, see if they can cut and flip things around for you?

 

[EFB055]

Yeah i might have to have a chat to an AC shop, see what they have to say about things. I might've found a supplier of RHD evaps too, so i'll have to do some ringing around and see what i can find.

 

[EFB055]

Some new parts came in, my LHD TX valve installed easy enough. Had to do a bit of bending seeing as everything was pointing in the exact opposite direction but it clears nicely now. I also was looking at AC flushes and they just appeared to be solvants, so i flushed the core with xylene a few times and let it dry out, and replaced all the seals with green ones. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Whoever designed these Delphi stabilizer end links is a bastard. The threaded stud isn't long enough to engage the nut once it's installed on the car, i had to G clamp the things on there to compress the rubber to expose the stud and get the nut started. Definitely one of those jobs that i thought would take 5 minutes and took 30.

Picked these up though, was pretty stoked that i didn't have to pay redic JDM prices for lip hardware. These were 5 bucks for 25 and worked perfect:

Also new plate. Some SOB took EEB055 before i ordered it, so went with this instead. Gunna have to rename the thread title now:

I've also been tinkering around with that head unit i picked up. I replaced one of the caps that was visibly leaking, the SOB was a couple of mm taller than the old one so i had to mill the heat sink back a touch for it to fit. Also it didn't make a difference and it still sounds garbage lol. I cleaned the pots and inspected the rest of the board and everything looks ok...

I did some more diagnosing though and found that the issue seems to be channel specific (one speaker channel is just all distortion, while the rear channels don't sound bad at all). So i'll keep tinkering around seeing what i can diagnose before just bombing it with new parts.

 

[robgoof]

Also new plate. Some SOB took EEB055 before i ordered it, so went with this instead. Gunna have to rename the thread title now:

won't let me post Arthurs fist..

 

[EFB055]

I noticed when i was reattaching my shifter cables to the trans that there was a huge amount of play in the shifter, on closer inspection i found this:

You can see the eyelet of the shift linkage on the right has a black bush in it, while the one on the left has a pile of crumbs under it where the eyelet of the shift linkage used to have a bush. I went to a wrecker and had a look at the CD Accord/Poolude cable shifters but their linkage bushes are a much larger diameter and a press in type that can't be easily removed. Zzz.

So i took the remaining black bush out and measured it up.

I replaced the black one too because it was also a sloppy fit:

Shifter feels lightyears better now. I noticed the trans used to snag 1st if i didn't double clutch it, i'm wondering if maybe this was the issue... Fingers crossed.

Got all my AC stuff installed, and the rest of the HVAC garbage so i could get the dash back in. Starting to come together!

 

[robgoof]

what material did you use for the EEBushing ?

 

[EFB055]

Turned down from nylon rod. Should be just as durable as whatever the dust used to be hopefully. Looks like it mightve been nylon as well, just black instead of natural.

 

[robgoof]

yeah but..

 

[drtalon123]

I noticed the trans used to snag 1st if i didn't double clutch it

 

[EFB055]

yeah but..

#allnylonmatters
#notallnylon

View attachment 139507

Busted 😞. I dunno what it is about these 4wd boxes, I've driven a few now and they're all similarly notchy compared to the buttery smooth linkage trans. Gotta treat the shifter like that pottery scene from GHOST.

 

[robgoof]

#allnylonmatters
#notallnylon



Busted 😞. I dunno what it is about these 4wd boxes, I've driven a few now and they're all similarly notchy compared to the buttery smooth linkage trans. Gotta treat the shifter like that pottery scene from GHOST.

sexy.